Trend: Juicy gems in fine jewellery design

May 9, 2019

By Jodie Smith

8 min read

Large gemstones are the single most effective decorative design element that jewellers can use. Nothing is as impactful and pleasing to the eye as a large, vibrant gem: whether in person, in photography for print media, in advertising or online.

Not only do big gemstones have a huge appeal, but with the entire spectrum of coloured stones becoming lauded in fine jewellery, the variation of shades and tones which are available to designers and consumers alike is wider than ever!

For Spring/Summer 2019, a huge trend is gentle pastel tones in gemstones, as the more dramatic neon and richer shades tend to reach the height of their popularity in the Autumn/Winter season. These were formerly considered less desirable tones for gems, but a more subtle palette has emerged this year.

Veschetti 'Ortensia' ring with 7.81ct cushion cut tanzanite, emeralds and diamonds, necklace with an oval 39.05ct kunzite, oval tanzanites totaling 26.62ct, 6.28ct Colombian emeralds, and 14.20ct diamonds, and earrings with 1.38ct oval kunzites, emeralds and diamonds, all in 18k yellow gold

Veschetti 'Ortensia' ring with 7.81ct cushion cut tanzanite, emeralds and diamonds, necklace with an oval 39.05ct kunzite, oval tanzanites totaling 26.62ct, 6.28ct Colombian emeralds, and 14.20ct diamonds, and earrings with 1.38ct oval kunzites, emeralds and diamonds, all in 18k yellow gold

One way to showcase these gargantuan stones is to accentuate their colour, either by allowing the feature gem to ‘stand alone’ with minimal metalwork and details, or by purposely matching its tones with those of other bold decorative elements in that design. Some designers choose to use contrasting colour gemstones to highlight their natural hues to their fullest potential, whilst others opt for colourless diamonds to make allow the coloured gem to take centre stage.

However you prefer your jewellery, I have curated a selection of the very best and most exciting designs featuring juicy gems for your delectation!

Bulgari

Bulgari

'Future' necklace from the 'Wild Pop' collection with 36.41ct rubellite, citrine, topaz, pink tourmaline, amethyst and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Lorenz Bäumer

Lorenz Bäumer

'Fleur de Nuit' ring from the ‘Black Magic’ collection with green tourmaline, Paraiba tourmaline, pink sapphire and lacquer in 18k white gold

Kat Florence

Kat Florence

Ring with blue zircon and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Jessica McCormack

Jessica McCormack

‘Daisy’ ring with sapphire and diamond in 18k white gold

Jochen Leen

Jochen Leen

Rings with Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Harry Winston

Harry Winston

'Candy' ring with 16.69ct oval spessartite garnet, turquoise and diamonds in 18k white gold

Verdura

Verdura

'Fulco' toggle bracelet with amethyst, citrine, South Sea cultured pearl, spinel and peridot in 18k yellow gold

Erica Courtney

Erica Courtney

'Empress' ring with colour change sapphire, Paraiba tourmaline, sapphire and diamond in 18k yellow gold

Goldesign Joais Janeiro

Goldesign Joais Janeiro

Earrings with 25.50ct emerald, amethyst, diamond, ruby, rubellite and turquoise in 18k yellow gold

Cartier

Cartier

'Holika' bracelet from the ‘Coloratura’ collection with 30ct cushion cut rubellite, tourmaline, chrysoberyl and diamonds in 18k white gold

David Webb

David Webb

'Turban' ring with carved emerald, amethyst, coral and diamond in 18k yellow gold

Carol Kauffmann

Carol Kauffmann

'Class' earrings with emerald cut topaz, rubellite and diamonds in 18k white gold

Boghossian

Boghossian

‘Merveilles’ ring with Mozambique ruby and diamonds in 18k white gold

Avakian

Avakian

Ring with buff top amethyst, orange sapphires and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Sutra

Sutra

Earrings with tanzanite, sapphire and diamond in 18k white and blackened gold

Podnebesnaya & Podnebesny

Podnebesnaya & Podnebesny

Earrings with freshwater pearls, spessartine garnet, rubellite and diamonds in 18k white gold

Tiffany&Co.

Tiffany&Co.

'Blue Book 2018' collection brooch with an emerald cut tanzanite of over 27ct, round and marquise sapphires of over 5ct, and round brilliant diamonds in platinum

Aisha Baker

Aisha Baker

'Mystèré' ring with citrine in enamel and 18k yellow gold

Boucheron

Boucheron

‘Cabochon Parfum’ ring with rubellite cabochon, diamond and onyx in 18k white gold

Ara Vartanian

Ara Vartanian

Pendant necklace with rubellite, Paraiba tourmaline, black and colourless diamonds in 18k white gold

Piaget

Piaget

'Green Aurora' manchette from the 'Sunlight Escape' collection with 14.53ct cushion cut tourmaline and diamonds in wood marquetry and 18k pink gold

Paolo Costagli

Paolo Costagli

'Florentine' ring with blue topaz, tourmaline and diamonds in 18k white gold

NUUN Jewels

NUUN Jewels

'El Hada' ring with rubellite and diamonds in enamel and 18k yellow gold

Nicholas Varney

Nicholas Varney

Earrings with peridot, conch pearls and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Nina Runsdorf

Nina Runsdorf

Hoop earrings with multi-stone gems and diamond in 18k yellow gold

Nadine Aysoy

Nadine Aysoy

'Tsarina' earrings with beryl, fire opal and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Marina B

Marina B

'Ezia' ring with tourmaline and blue topaz in 18k yellow gold

Margot McKinney

Margot McKinney

'Exotic Abundance' collar necklace with tsavorite, aquamarine, sapphire, peridot, diamonds and black opals in 18k yellow gold

Picchiotti

Picchiotti

Necklace with 53.41ct kunzite, tsavorites and diamonds in 18k white gold

FORMS jewellery: Evolving concepts and pushing design boundaries

continue reading

Chain Reaction: Shells Reinvented with the Melanie Georgacopoulos Katina Collection

I spoke to Melanie to discover more about her latest, innovative offering…

by Sarah Jordan

Unique Proposals: Alternative Engagement Ring Designs for 2025

This year, it's all change, with some of the key alternative engagement ring trends for 2025 representing a very real evolution of this most classic of jewels

by Claire Roberts

Crystalline Osmium: Discover the Rarest Precious Metal on Earth

by Katerina Perez

Proudly Indian: The Myriad Facets of Zoya from the House of TATA

Let me take you behind the scenes of my visit and highlight some of the wonders I discovered…

by Katerina Perez

Mineral Masterpieces: Robert Procop on the Renowned 100 Carats Exhibition 

Let me take you behind the scenes of this important suite of centennial gems…

by Katerina Perez

Mocha Mousse: Getting Cosy with the Pantone Colour of the Year 2025

In keeping with its 25-year tradition, the Pantone Color Institute provided the fashion industry with a little winter pick-me-up back in December with the unveiling of its ‘Colour of the Year’ for 2025

by Katerina Perez

Mocha-Mousse_Simple-Pleasures-from-Pantone_2025_Katerina-Perez-scaled

Myriad Materials: Continuing the Story of Jewellery Artist Austy Lee

In fact, it is this choice of materials – gold, antique cameos, lacquer, and titanium, among others – that we will explore in this article. After all, why use what's readily available when there is a world of fabrications to explore?

by Sarah Jordan

Time to Shine: Enter the Debut Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

I am thrilled to announce an inaugural competition that will put your jewellery design expertise to the test!

by Katerina Perez

Subscription banner

Katerina PerezClub

Step into a universe devoted to jewellery that has been especially curated to indulge your passion, impart knowledge and inspire the next steps on your jewellery journey. Discover exclusive content you won’t find elsewhere.

join the club

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Gem Focus:Brazil Gem Commerce

Discover a company specialising in the cutting and trading of Brazilian and African precious gems, including Paraiba, rubellite and morganite

by Katerina Perez

Continue Reading

Ask Katerina:Diamond Jewellery Styling Tips for Modern Dressing

Here are some of the answers I gave during the presentation to aid your jewellery dressing…

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.