Taking Flight: Fluttering Wing Motifs in Fine and High Jewellery
Long associated with freedom, grace, and transcendence, wings have been a significant symbol in jewellery design for centuries. From the ethereal wings of ancient Greek deities like Eros (the god of love) and Nike (the god of victory) to the cutting-edge designs of modern haute couture today, this high-flying emblem always seems to transcend time and culture. Jewellers across the globe have been spellbound by its charm. So, buckle up and join us as we explore how this celestial symbol has soared through the luxury orld, transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary.
The wing motif is no flight of fancy; it’s a perennial classic! Symbolising freedom with a touch of the sublime, it’s a motif that has been reimagined by some of the biggest names in jewellery. Icons like Tiffany & Co., Piaget, Garrard, NUUN x Asprey, Carrera y Carrera, and Goossens have each injected their unique style into a ubiquitous pair of wings. Let’s take a closer look…
Tiffany & Co: Light as Air
Tiffany & Co. offers a fresh, modern interpretation of the motif in its Wings chapter, part of the Blue Book: Tiffany Céleste High Jewellery collection, launched earlier this year. These designs feature the feather-light, minimal aesthetic for which Tiffany is known, with shimmering white and yellow diamonds set in platinum to capture the ethereal essence of wings in flight. A standout piece is the Wings necklace, which features an astonishing 1,976 trillion-cut, baguette-cut, and round brilliant-cut diamonds. At its heart lies an exceedingly rare oval diamond of over 20 carats, serving as the centrepiece. As Nathalie Verdeille, Chief Artistic Officer of Jewellery and High Jewellery at Tiffany & Co. points out: “This chapter conjures a divine, ethereal spirit, with the necklace being one of the most exceptional pieces in the collection.”
Tiffany & Co Céleste Wings necklace with a diamond of over 20-carats and diamond accents in platinum and 18k yellow gold
Carrera y Carrera: Wings in the Wild
Next up, Spanish jeweller Carrera y Carrera’s Vida collection brings the serene flight of birds to life through its designs. The brand’s winged necklaces and bracelets are crafted in warm 18k yellow gold, with each feather so meticulously sculpted that it feels as though it could flutter away at any moment. Every piece in the collection feels like a tribute to the wild, a celebration of the natural world’s beauty, power, and untamed spirit. If you’ve ever dreamed of carrying a bit of that wild energy with you, this collection invites you to do just that.
The Libre Maxi necklace is designed in a rigid circular shape with scale-like metal sections that give it a structured, polished look. Crafted from 18k yellow and white gold, the wings follow the natural curve of the collarbone to sit like a piece of protective armour around the neck. The segmented metal adds texture and dimension, while pavé diamonds set into the wings offer a subtle shimmer. To complement the necklace, there’s a matching 2-in-1 ring, also made from 18k yellow and white gold with pavé-set diamonds. The ring is cleverly designed as two separate rings which clip together to form a single statement piece with overlapping metals. If you’re aiming for a more understated look, no problem: just wear one ring at a time and choose your preferred colour, saving the other for another day.
Piaget: A Flight of Fantasy
Piaget’s Wings of Light collection invites you to experience the jungle through the eyes of a bird, soaring above exotic landscapes and discovering hidden wonders. This imaginative journey takes form in the Majestic Plumage set, where feathers, sapphires, and spinel are meticulously arranged to evoke the vibrant colours of tropical bird plumage. At its centre is a 7.49-carat Paraiba tourmaline with an intense turquoise hue, mirroring the crystal-clear waters of distant tropical oases. The matching earrings continue this vivid narrative, showcasing two 2.70-carat red spinels from Tanzania. Their rich ruby-like tones, framed by an array of multi-coloured sapphires, mimic the dynamic movement of a bird in flight.
Piaget Majestic Plumage necklace with a 7.49-carat paraiba tourmaline and a rainbow of bejewelled feathers in 18k white gold
Garrard: Wings of Protection
The Wings Embrace collection by London-based brand Garrard showcases the age-old wing motif beautifully, especially in a yellow sapphire and diamond ‘Slider’ pendant. In this design, 18k yellow gold wings gently curve around a dazzling array of sapphires and diamonds, creating a piece that feels as much like a warm embrace as it does a statement of jewellery craftsmanship.
The collection’s standout jewel, the Phoenix Drop earrings, is a true testament to Garrard’s exceptional artistry. Inspired by the mythical phoenix, these earrings symbolise transformation and renewal. They feature sweeping wings crafted from 18k white gold, and at the heart of the design, two round orange sapphires are surrounded by 76 calibré-cut orange sapphires (5.20 carats) and 14 calibré-cut yellow sapphires (0.80 carats). This burst of vibrant colour is further enhanced by 222 round diamonds, totalling 1.66 carats, which catch the light with every movement.
NUUN x Asprey: Wings Reimagined
Launched in September 2024, the NUUN x Asprey collaboration offers a fresh, bold twist on the wing and feather motif, breaking away from traditional jewellery design. Princess Nourah Al-Faisal of Nuun Jewels has reimagined Asprey’s iconic Feather collection, incorporating unexpected materials like coloured titanium and vibrant gemstones to infuse the pieces with a futuristic and dynamic edge. The collection features 13 pieces, including rings, earrings, and bracelets, all made to order. Each one showcases beautiful stones such as pale pink sapphires, morganite, and pastel yellow diamonds, which lend a warm, glowing allure. If you’re on the hunt for something truly unique, this collection is a must-see.
NUUN x Asprey earrings with multicoloured diamonds, rock crystals in titanium and 18k rose gold
Krisonia: Wings of Majesty
Milan jewellery Maison Krisonia dedicates its Volo collection to channelling the raw energy and grace of an eagle in full flight. Each piece feels like a moment frozen in time when the majestic bird glides through the sky in search of its prey – powerful, focused and completely free. Krisonia does a fantastic job at carrying the eagle’s spirit throughout this collection of ear climbers, necklaces, rings and bracelets. For those who prefer the understated design, there are more dainty diamond pieces to choose from, but if you prefer rubies or emeralds, there are several designs with a more colourful palette. Take the Volo ring, for example, 18k rose gold wraps around 3.72 carats of dazzling diamonds, arranged like feathers mid-flight, with a fiery 1.25-carat ruby anchoring in the centre.
Who knows what the future will hold, but one thing is certain: wings are here to stay. As designers push the boundaries of creativity, we can look forward to seeing how this classic symbol will evolve and soar in new, unexpected ways.
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