Heavy Metal: The Trend For Bold Gold Medallions Gathers Pace

Gold medallions infused with meaning are hot property right now, as jewellery lovers fall for the symbolism and style of these statement designs. Rachael Taylor asks how best to wear these daring medallions and meets jewellers pushing the boundaries with new twists on this classic design.

It is hard to avoid medallions right now – this bold style of necklace is everywhere, and for good reason. A great gold medallion worn on a long, heavy chain can bring just the right pinch of drama to a shirt-and-jeans combo, but it can also wow at a black-tie event and connect you to your hopes and dreams through its symbolism. That kind of versatility is irresistible.  

Lisa Feldkamp has a keen eye for a medallion. She has spent years curating collections of vintage medallions that she sells through her New York-based brand Charmco and considers them to be “a classic anchor for any charm bracelet or necklace”. Indeed, you will often spot Feldkamp with large medallions hanging from her own bracelets and chains, and her love for this style is infectious. So much so that Charmco’s vault of vintage designs couldn’t keep up with the demand from clients, and it created a line of contemporary medallions in 14ct gold to complement the found treasures. 

“[Our Charmco medallions have] messages like qu hier que demain – I love you more today, but less than I will tomorrow – as well as gem-set lovebirds, and an emerald-set tree of life,” says Feldkamp, who also notes that medallions with customised engravings are hugely popular. 

As to how one should style medallions, Joy Haugaard, founder and creative director of jewellery brand Lionheart, which has a collection of 14ct yellow gold medallions inspired by ancient coins, says it comes down to individual taste. “My clients love styling medallions in a variety of ways, depending on their personal taste and the look they’re going for,” she says. “Many enjoy layering multiple medallions together, mixing different sizes, finishes, and themes to create a statement. Others prefer wearing a single medallion as a focal point, either on a simple chain for an elegant, minimalist look or paired with other accessories for a more eclectic vibe. Ultimately, the way they style their medallions is a reflection of their individual style and the stories they want to tell.”

Storytelling is indeed core to medallions, the first of which were cast in bronze in Ancient Rome. These early medallions were decorated with portraits of nobility, and given as gifts of friendship, allegiance or diplomacy, and worn as status symbols. They carried meaning – and they still do today. 

“There’s something so powerful about medallions; they are able to be both bold and intimate,” says Orly Eisbart, the designer behind the jewellery brand Orly Marcel. “Medallions are a big part of what we do. To me, they’re the perfect canvas for storytelling. Every design reflects a meaningful symbol or motif.”

Themes explored in Orly Marcel medallions include sacred geometry, with mandala designs radiating from a single central gemstone, and talismanic star designs. Some colour outside the edges, testing the rule that medallions should be circular. 

“Traditional medallions were often round and uniform, but today we’re seeing so much more variety – rectangular, square, even organic shapes,” says Eisbart. “Our Fez Medallion [which takes the form of an eight-pointed star with gemstone inlay] is a great example of a unique shape inspired by our time in Morocco. We love playing with intricate details, mixed textures, and stone inlays to give them a modern edge while still honouring their timeless appeal.”

Size is also up for debate. Classic medallions call for a grand scale, but many brands are downsizing to create pieces that feel more wearable for every day. “There’s a greater variety of sizes in medallions as more designers put their creative interpretations on this type of necklace,” agrees Afzal Imram, co-founder of jewellery brand State Property. “I think more and more, people are looking for pieces that are special and memorable, but versatile enough to complement our increasingly casual dressing. We love pairing them with jeans and a modern plain blouse that has a great drape to contrast the grandeur of our medallion necklaces.” 

Jewellery brand Retrouvai specialises in medallions in myriad styles. Its latest collection Talisman offers affirmations and sage idioms engraved onto wavy-edged medallions that speak to intuition and empowerment. The collection is available in two sizes, and designer and founder Kirsty Stone flies the flag for subtler sizes. “We tend to stick to coin sizes for our medallion pendants,” she says. “I think the beauty in a wearable scale is that it can transcend generations and genders.” 

Whether you choose to wear your medallion bold (as the Romans intended) or petit, round or not-so-round, they key is to find something you connect with. That could require personalisation, such as adding an engraving or a favourite gemstone, or it could simply mean discovering a symbol or catchphrase that fires your heart, drives your ambition, or chimes with your beliefs or passions. 

Once you’ve found that, we can guarantee you won’t want to take it off. As Stone reminds us, a well-chosen medallion with a rich personal meaning is a jewel “that can transcend decades as we go about the chapters of our lives”. So, what will you choose to tell your story?