I first met Carlos when working on the preparation and launch of Rubeus' first high jewellery collection in 2019. I was consulting this luxury goods company on the direction of its jewellery division, and Carlos was involved on the gem side. We stayed in touch afterwards and worked on other projects, too, so he knew about my obsession with gems and jewellery as well as my work ethic. When Kevin Ferreira, a US-based Paraiba dealer, told him about his desire to write a book and tell the story of this unique, vibrant tourmaline, Carlos thought, 'We need to get Katerina on board', and so my journey into the neon blue began.
Now that I look back and connect the dots, I feel that maybe all this was meant to happen since Paraiba, which is one of my top three favourite gems, has always been with me throughout my career. How? Well, the very first article I wrote about a Paraiba tourmaline was published on my website within the first six months of launching katerinaperez.com. It was about a necklace called the Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba, which was inspired by the sea. It was crowned with a stone weighing 191.87 carats - almost four times the size of the largest Paraiba featured in the Guinness Book of Records at that time. Have you heard of any Paraiba larger than this? Now - yes, but you can imagine how amazed I was by the stone 11 years ago, and not just because of its impressive carat weight, of course, but its neon colour, which is something no other gem can boast.
Some believe that Paraiba tourmaline helps achieve emotional balance and fosters inner peace. Its mere sight can evoke a sense of oceanic calm, transporting you to tranquil waters. Personally, I find that Paraiba tourmaline embodies these qualities by its very nature. Its colouration is unique among gemstones, often described as electric blue, with shades that range from turquoise to teal and emerald green. This striking colour palette not only captivates the eye but also evokes feelings of freshness, clarity, and harmony. Whether worn as jewellery or admired for its sheer beauty, Paraiba tourmaline serves as a gentle reminder to remain composed in the face of life's trials, offering a serene tranquillity akin to the calming presence of water.
This feeling imprinted so much in my mind that I introduced Paraiba blue as the only bright colour in the design of my online magazine you are reading now. It perfectly stands out among my core brand colours: grey, black and white. I wonder if I've always had a subconscious attraction to this gemstone, valuing its rarity, beauty, and uniqueness. Now, alongside my co-author Kevin, I have had the opportunity to thoroughly delve into the world of Paraiba and write about how designers and jewellers harness its vibrant energy and rarity to create exquisite pieces of art that grace red carpets and brims the auction houses.
The first part is written by Kevin, exploring the stone's mining, origins and development and touching on its history as well, while the second is dedicated to designs, auctions and red carpets. Our chapters complement one another as I have never been to a Paraiba tourmaline mine, neither in Brazil, Mozambique or Nigeria, and Kevin hardly sees what happens with the gems after he sells them. His wealth of knowledge spans the geological origins of Paraiba, the intricate process of mining, sourcing, and other stories that form the foundation of our book. On the other hand, my role in this endeavour was to explore Paraiba beyond its geological and historical dimensions.
Paraiba offers versatility in its forms—whether raw, faceted, or en cabochon, or when intricately carved. Its beauty can be admired from numerous angles and perspectives, making it a gemstone of endless possibilities. Exploring these facets with numerous jewellery houses has been an exciting journey, offering insights into unveiling a treasure trove of techniques, combinations, and cutting-edge designs that breathe life into each creation. This exploration is reflected in the third chapter of the book, solely dedicated to outstanding jewels from all over the world, while the fourth chapter honours gouache drawings – an art form in its own right.
It took two years to bring this book to life with the help of Icaro Carlos, who worked on the art direction, and Barbara Brocchi, who did the beautiful illustrations for the book. Our objective was to highlight and demystify the rare Paraiba tourmaline and reveal its unparalleled beauty through vivid storytelling and stunning visuals. But this was only the first step! The real work starts after the book launch, and we did two of those. First, we presented the book at the Ritz Hotel in Paris during Haute Couture Week. Just a day before that, I visited Salon D'Ete to view the new high jewellery collection by Cartier, and the day after, I was having my own launch. Imagine how surreal it felt! Over 100 guests, including journalists, jewellery designers and gemmologists, came to congratulate us, and former General Director of Cartier, Stanislas de Quercize, gave a wonderful speech alongside myself and Kevin. Some people flew in from as far as California!
The second book launch took place only a few days later at the Scott's in London and it was a completely different event. It was much more intimate and hosted 25 guests, among whom were both jewellery designers and press. We talked a lot about Paraiba tourmalines, their present, past and future and some designers were so inspired that they started working on new jewellery designs with Paraiba tourmalines almost right after the dinner!
I'm often asked about my favourite gemstone, which for me is much like asking a mother to pick her favourite child. It's a challenging question because I appreciate the beauty of each gemstone uniquely, yet I'm particularly fascinated by rare ones—hence why Paraiba stands out as one of my favourites. I believe Paraiba is paving the way for innovative and expansive designs, offering jewellers ample space to experiment. And this is one of the subjects Kevin and I discussed during the talk at the Vicenzaoro exhibition on September 7, 2024.
To purchase a copy of the book Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, please visit theparaibabook.com
