Spirited Jewels: The Expressive Creativity of Elena Semy Jewellery 

I actually think that passion for jewellery is innate; it is similar to the ability to feel the beauty of nature, the harmony of music or an impulse of one's own soul. When meeting jewellery designers who share this approach in their creative process, I get so excited, as it is never limited to a pleasant interaction – it usually brings a lot of creative discoveries. And, of course, I share the best of them with you. Today, I'd like to introduce you to the creative designs of Elena Semy Jewellery and Elena, the artist behind them.

Do you ever feel like making changes to a ready-made piece of jewellery that you see in a shop window? If so, you will easily understand Elena Seminozhenko's creative impulse which pushed her to start implementing her ideas that fully reflect her personal perception of beauty, authenticity, and completeness. In the early days of her career, Elena had a hard time finding jewellery to her liking, so she made the bold decision to start creating her own. 

"After this idea was conceived, and the first experience turned out a success, I took it as a sign that I should follow this path,” Elena shared with me at the VicenzaOro exhibition, where she debuted in January. “They say that a happy person is one who finds a job that they love and turns it into a profession. For me, making jewellery is not just a job but a way of self-expression, an opportunity to make the world a more beautiful place and help people find their special symbols. It is a rare occasion when passion becomes a craft, and a craft becomes a calling. Perhaps this is why each jewel created by me and my team is not just a piece; it is rather a story, an emotion, a reflection of someone's individuality.”

Having spent some time with the designer, I noticed that the jewellery pieces she creates in Italy are very distinctive, although some of them share common elements. Elena is convinced that each of us has our own unique understanding of beauty, so she keeps in mind the aesthetic codes of each individual when searching for their personal jewellery style. "The combination of form and meaning is magic encrypted in every curve of metal. Therefore, I see jewels not just as a material form but as an extension of philosophy and lifestyle. This is exactly what I've wanted to create – jewellery as a reflection of the soul," she explains. As a result, everyone – from romantic individuals to those preferring minimalistic forms – can easily "recognise themselves" in the Elena Semy Jewellery collections.

She continues: "Personal style is not static; it evolves with a person, fashion, or era. I have never followed any trends intentionally; nevertheless, they are invisibly present in my work. It's like a conversation with art: you listen to the times you live in but speak your own language. Today, the world craves simplicity and meaning, and this is exactly what our jewellery has to offer: style filled with symbols yet easy to digest.”

In our conversation, the word "style" was mentioned multiple times. What does it mean? Every girl has a style of her own, so Elena offers convertible jewellery, large cocktail rings, encrusted pearls, and complex designs. In other words, everything that attracts attention. Each woman chooses something that best matches her character and self-perception. Jewellery is an unmatched way of expressing oneself.

"Our pieces can tell a lot about their owners: they are worn by women who are bold, emancipated, and free from stereotypes. I'm not a fan of 'timeless jewellery; what is important to me is that each of them reflects the spirit of the era, its energy and its mood," Elena explains.

In my opinion, sautoirs, especially from the Snowflake collection, truly confirm these words. Interpreted by Elena Semy Jewellery, these jewels, with more than a century-long history, which were incredibly popular at the beginning of the 20th century, look novel and modern: tassels can be detached from the central pendant, and both can be worn separately on the chain. Elena is also proud of a special technique for creating tassels, which removes the need for a visible knot or bead at the end of each thread. This proves that truly stylish pieces are changing with time without losing their original sophistication.

Animalistic motifs have also been reinvented, based not so much on the animals themselves but on the precious stones that inspired the designer. For example, the idea of a penguin pendant was born when Elena saw a gorgeous egg-shaped pearl. As a totem animal, the penguin is a symbol of devotion and love, so she decided to execute it with materials no less symbolic – gold and diamonds. But the real challenge for the jewellers was the round parts of this black and white bird, covered in enamel. This material is not only extremely sensitive to the temperature during application, which affects its density, but it is also impossible to correct even the slightest defect, as enamel cannot be polished. Add to this dozens of layers to achieve the desired effect, the nuances of firing and the possibility of enamel flowing under the installed stones – sounds like a Mission Impossible sequel!

To achieve the desired result, a unique base coat for the metal under enamel was developed, giving a special lustre to the finished product, as well as proportions, technologies, and composition of the coldest enamel possible, allowing for a flawless coating. In total, just one figurine can take up to 6 months to finish! But the result is certainly worth it (I posted penguins on my Instagram and the next day several visitors came to see them).

Like many gemmologists and jewellers who work directly with outstanding precious stones, Elena is convinced that each stone is alive and can reveal its secret to those who are open to listening. "Our task is nothing else but to bring this secret to life, maintaining a balance between art and nature. This is the meaning of art, to notice beauty where others cannot see it." So, enchanted by the beauty of opal and rose quartz cabochons, Elena came up with an elegant flamingo bird!

Now I would like to introduce you to two collections, Be Happy and Perfection, featuring pearls skilfully inlaid with precious stones. Elena is proud that she uses this technique not to conceal defects of these sea treasures, but to emphasise their unique nature, turning them into real art objects. "Implanting" diamonds into a pearl requires special skill due to its natural fragility. In addition, damaged pearls cannot be repolished like metal or recut like stones; they will no longer be usable.

When I explore new jewellery, I always pay attention to the inside. I think that carefully designed parts of the jewellery that are not immediately visible are something that distinguishes jewellery art from commercial jewellery. That is why I was so pleased to see that Elena Semy Jewellery treats the inside of the jewellery with no less respect. For example, the feathers of Flamingo are cut out on the back side of the bird, which, when viewed through the lens of the stone from different angles, creates an illusion of movement. In the Vamp collection, the reverse of the pieces are adorned with gold feathers and diamonds that are not visible to anyone but the wearer. 

This approach echoes Elena's philosophy, as she believes that each of her pieces is not just an adventure but a whole life lived from the moment the idea emerges to its final execution. "Sometimes it seems to me that I am following the path of Pygmalion, who breathed life into the marble Galatea. I see metal and stones not just as materials, but stories waiting to be revealed."

Moreover, Elena shared her creative plans with me: she is currently working on reviving the unique Iguana necklace adorned with a gorgeous 50-carat pink-peach morganite. Very soon, you'll see this embodiment of grace, strength and wild nature on Instagram @elenasemy2024, so stay tuned!