Emily in Paris Jewellery Secrets: An Interview with Costume Designer Marylin Fitoussi

The release of Emily in Paris Season Five delivered not just a whirlwind of romance and fashion, but a veritable treasure trove of jewellery. From bold, fashion-forward statements to exquisite precious pieces, the jewels in this addictive series have evolved from charming accents into integral pillars of each character’s identity. What began in Season 1 with more modest choices has blossomed into a fully fledged Emily in Paris jewellery narrative, where earrings, necklaces and rings are as pivotal to the storytelling as the script itself.

I remember how, a few seasons back, Nadine Aysoy called me to thank me for helping to place her designs in Season 3. It was such a lovely surprise, especially as at the time I had no idea what I had done to make this happen. This is the invisible power of Instagram. It turned out that the founder of Sparkles & Bubbles celebrity agency, Caroline Simon, was a devoted follower and had discovered many a jewel on my social media that ultimately made its way into the series. She was also the one who introduced me to the visionary behind the show’s iconic looks, costume designer Marylin Fitoussi.

KP: You mentioned education. Was there a moment or a resource that particularly inspired this shift?

MF: Honestly, I wasn’t prepared for it at the beginning. I didn’t feel “legit” using high jewellery, as I’d never had the opportunity on other shows. But platforms like your Instagram account were a priceless source of inspiration. You offered a window into so many brands I didn’t know. In a way, you were at the beginning of this journey – you are perhaps behind all the jewels we have on the show! It helped me understand that the show’s style could grow, and so could the volume and significance of the jewellery.

KP: I think all high and fine jewellery designers are smiling right now, because your Emily in Paris jewellery choices help reinforce the idea that precious designs aren’t just for special occasions – you can incorporate many of them into daily life.

KP: I love how organically you mix high and affordable jewellery in Emily in Paris. Mindy is the queen of that.

CS: Exactly. That’s modernity – to be able to mix Yves Saint Laurent with Messika and something very affordable. Mindy’s character shows that high jewellery can be wearable at any time of day.

KP: Now that you have a deeper knowledge of jewellery – you said you’re learning to recognise different brands and even stones – has this experience changed your personal jewellery style?

MF (laughing): No, I’m still into oversized, more ethnic pieces. But I’m profoundly happy and proud to now be able to appreciate high jewellery in the way I do. It was a major discovery. Seeing the creativity behind pieces from more niche, highly talented designers like Emmanuel Tarpin, for example, who creates one-of-a-kind pieces using incredible techniques like painting on gold, opened an entirely new universe for me and unlocked my imagination.

KP: It sounds like working on Emily in Paris has completely reshaped your creative philosophy.

MF: Completely. Having the chance to handle and contemplate such craftsmanship – it opened a gate to fantasy. Jewellery doesn’t perish like fashion; it carries stories you can pass on. It changed my world. Now, when I see a dress, I think, Where is the perfect jewel to complete this story? It’s no longer an accessory; it’s the accessory, one that can say more than any item of clothing.

KP: Expanding on that, beyond aesthetics, what fundamental role does jewellery play in defining a character?

CS: It’s everything. A social signature, a token of romance, a completion of the look. With the perfect piece of jewellery, you can completely elevate and transform a silhouette. A simple black dress can tell 10 different stories with 10 different jewels. Jewellery is the key to the character.

KP: Let’s talk about the jewellery styles of the characters and trace Emily’s own journey in more detail. How have her choices evolved from wide-eyed newcomer to established Parisian professional?

MF: As she became more mature and Parisian, her jewellery became more powerful and intentional. In Season 4, her bangs inspired a more sensual, feminine direction. Then in Season 5, she cut her hair short – sexy and modern. That was my trigger. We moved towards strong designer pieces, sharp metals and diamonds, with less delicacy. We used almost no necklaces to highlight her beautiful swan-like neck, instead placing all the emphasis on bold statement earrings. It was a conscious shift to reflect her growing power.

KP: And what would you say is Emily’s signature jewellery look now?

MF: I think it’s long and short earrings. Asymmetry.

KP: What about Sylvie – how would you describe her signature jewellery style versus Princess Jane’s?

CS: Princess Jane wears beautiful costume jewellery, while Sylvie wears precious pieces. Sylvie’s style is the epitome of power and understated luxury – minimal but impactful.

KP: Looking ahead, with Season 6 potentially coming next year, can you give us any hints about the jewellery direction? How do you keep innovating after five iconic seasons?

MF: It’s the biggest challenge. I’m already thinking about it – searching for concepts and colour combinations we’ve never explored. We can’t allow a sense of déjà vu. If a look reminds us of something from the past, we scrap it, no matter how beautiful. The mission is always to make people dream and to present unexpected combinations. For Season 6, I hope we can source the most beautiful jewels of all time. Let’s challenge ourselves. We’re hunting for the unseen – the new pieces that will become the sparkling triggers for the next chapter of Parisian dreams.

I hope this conversation has sparked your curiosity and that you’re already imagining the treasures waiting in the wings for Season 6. One thing is certain: in the world of Emily in Paris, jewellery will continue to be the silent, sparkling narrator of every love story, power move and Parisian dream.