Performance Pearls: Theatrical Jewels for Creative Personalities

June 24, 2021

By Katerina Perez

10 min read

The traditional vision of pearls – a single strand sitting just above the collar bone, coupled with a pair of staid white pearl studs – is a far cry from the modern vision of pearl jewellery that blends theatrical, colourful and creative elements worthy of even the most gregarious attention-seeker. What was once associated with reservedness is now pulling the spotlight on the main stage and being worked and reworked in new and exciting ways. Here are some exceptional pearls to get you noticed.

Pearls have a tougher job than most other gem materials in getting swept off the shelves. This isn’t because they’re not beautiful, extraordinarily rare (in some cases) or set in remarkably inventive designs… it’s because of the reputation they carry like a weight about their lustrous shoulders. Outside of our community of jewellery aficionados, there’s still a lingering idea that pearls are the mainstay of uptight, formal dressing and twinsets with little in the way of personality.

Bridal tiara from the Bubble Collection by Sean Gilson for Assael

Bridal tiara from the Bubble Collection by Sean Gilson for Assael

 Assael pearl barrette hair slide

Assael pearl barrette hair slide

Of course, dear reader, we know better! Pearls are a versatile resource for fine and high jewellery and are being used in numerous ways; set, carved, studded with diamonds, and decorated. They can be spherical or baroque, shades of luminous gold or deep petrol-hued black, cultured or natural, freshwater or saltwater… the list goes on. And let’s not forget mother-of-pearl – that most ubiquitous of nacreous product – as well as ‘speciality’ conch and Melo Melo pearls that aren’t nacreous at all, but rather calcareous concretions with flame-like ripples on surfaces of blush and bubblegum pink and deep yellowish-oranges, respectively.

Wilfredo Rosado Pearl ID collection with diamonds inset into pearls

Wilfredo Rosado Pearl ID collection with diamonds inset into pearls

 Wilfredo Rosado pearl little finger ring from the Pearl ID collection

Wilfredo Rosado pearl little finger ring from the Pearl ID collection

 The Pearl ID collection by Wilfredo Rosado is gender neutral

The Pearl ID collection by Wilfredo Rosado is gender neutral

Today’s designers have become adept at seeing the potential in pearls, whether they’re combined with coloured gemstones and diamonds, or positioned as the headline act. I especially like when pearls are ‘injected’ with gemstones – a sort of layering magic act where gems are set into baroque pearls, like the pieces of Nina Runsdorf and Little H, for example. Of course, pearls really come into their own in high jewellery, where they are chosen for their colour, size and, in much rarer cases, their completely natural origins. What unites the best designs is the spirit – the designer has looked at the pearl, ignored centuries of classicism, and has had the imagination to invent something new. Not that we needed another reason to adore jewellery, reader, but this is a good one!

Jacquie Aiche

Jacquie Aiche

Freshwater pearl necklace with a pear-shaped opal drop and diamond pavé

Boghossian

Boghossian

Fancy-shaped Zambian emerald and natural saltwater pearl earrings

Amrapali

Amrapali

Pearl and diamond tassel earrings

Dior

Dior

Tie & Dior High Jewellery ring with pearls, diamonds and emeralds

Assael

Assael

White pearl and diamond earrings with a detachable pearl drop

David Morris

David Morris

Two Seas necklace with 71ct natural black pearls, 46ct natural white pearls, 1.5ct natural coloured pearls, 2ct pink diamonds and 0.5ct white diamonds

Boghossian

Boghossian

Asymmetric natural pearl and diamond earrings

Boghossian

Boghossian

Fancy deep orangy brown diamond and natural pearl earrings

Assael

Assael

Golden South Sea pearl three-strand necklace with a natural turquoise clasp

Ana Khouri

Ana Khouri

Baroque pearl and 18k yellow gold earrings

Bucherer

Bucherer

Mini Pearls ring in 18k rose gold with diamonds

Nina Runsdorf

Nina Runsdorf

Baroque pearl and diamond ring

Tasaki

Tasaki

Sunset Glow earrings with South Sea pearls, diamonds, topaz, citrine, garnet, aquamarine

Nina Runsdorf

Nina Runsdorf

Baroque pearl ring inlaid with diamonds on a yellow gold band

Boucheron

Boucheron

Perles de Plume cultured pearl and diamond ring in 18k white gold

Bucherer

Bucherer

Multi-strand white pearl necklace with graduating pearl tassels

Sarah Ho

Sarah Ho

Neon Lux earrings with South Sea and Akoya pearls set in colour-coated 18k gold

Fernando Jorge

Fernando Jorge

Satellite earrings with mother of pearl and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Picchiotti

Picchiotti

Multi-colour pearl and diamond necklace

State Property

State Property

Unfold Consonance lapel pin with a pearl and diamonds

Ara Vartanian

Ara Vartanian

Black pearl earrings with black and colourless diamonds in 18k yellow gold

John Hardy

John Hardy

Textured yellow gold ring with pearls

Sarah Ho

Sarah Ho

Arabian pearl and diamond ring from the Full Circle collection

State Property

State Property

Unfold Epilogue ring with pearls and diamonds

Pomellato

Pomellato

Pearl double finger ring with brown and colourless diamonds

Picchiotti

Picchiotti

Pearl ring in an 18k rose gold setting with round diamonds

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