Bulgari: the joy of Festa, the brand’s new high jewellery art collection
What is Italy? Ask Italians that question and you will get a range of completely different answers: the Romans will tell you about the Coliseum and the Spanish Steps; the Venetians would talk about the Grand Canal and their numerous bridges; Pisa’s inhabitants – their leaning tower of course; those from Milan – the famous La Scala opera house and Piazza del Duomo… And, after a mysterious pause, each of them would undoubtedly mention their characteristic way of life, the sweet and elusive charm of “la dolce vita”, the spread of which is an affaire d’honneur for every Italian!
With its birthplace in Rome, Bulgari, has its own recipe for “la dolce vita”. The jewellery maison has released a brand new and extensive collection named Festa made up of breath-taking creations dedicated to the very art of celebrating life. More than 100 jewels and watches which champion that emotion of pure Italian happiness have been specially designed for it. The collection was first presented at the end of June 2017 in Venice where two world-famous events were being held: the legendary Carnival of Venice and the Historical Regatta.
The sun, the hot climate and the gentle waves of the Mediterranean could not make for a more blissful atmosphere of joy, happiness and celebration. In no other country will you meet people who are as cheerful, openly revelling on the streets of their towns and cities; indeed, celebration is in and of itself the essence of Italians’ modus operandi. Those that live in the towns of this southern European state exude a sense of style, an exuberant euphoria and a striking originality that are all intrinsic to their hometowns. Bulgari’s creative director of jewellery department, Lucia Silvestri, has derived inspiration from this attitude to life, truly and universally reproducing throughout the collection.
PEPERONCINI - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with green tourmalines (59.08 ct), rubellites (69.04 ct) amethysts (63.29 ct), round and pavé diamonds.
OLIVE - High Jewellery necklace in white gold with 7 peridots (47.84 ct), 7 amethysts (43.47 ct), 6 tourmalines (42.69 ct), fancy color pavé diamonds (3.85 ct), round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé diamonds (29.75 ct).
TAMBURELLI - High Jewellery necklace in pink gold with 5 rubellites (45.00 ct), 6 amethysts (56.42 ct), emerald beads (11.75 ct) and pavé diamonds (6.77 ct).
FIOCCO REALE - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with 1 cushion Colombia emerald (9.16 ct), 1 cushion Sri Lanka sapphire (14.84 ct) and South-Sea cultured pearls, emerald beads (64.63 ct), beads of sapphires (56.69 ct) and 4 round brilliant cut, fancy shape step cut diamonds and pavé diamonds (12.50 ct).
API REALI - High Jewellery necklace in pink gold with round sapphires (14.95 ct), fancy yellow diamonds (10.94 ct), pear shaped diamonds (3.65 ct) and round diamonds (5.86 ct).
For example, there are two pieces in the new collection, a Palio necklace and bracelet, which are, of course, dedicated to Siena’s ancient and renowned Palio races. 17 municipal “contradi”, or regions, participate in the Palio, each with its own traditional colours and flags. It is this palette of colours which gave the Palio necklace its myriad of gemstones: diamonds, rubies, sapphires, malachite, tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and many others. Bulgari’s craftsmen worked for many months, closely collaborating with Siena’s authorities to make sure that the colours of all 17 contradi were perfectly reproduced!
IL PALIO DI SIENA - High Jewellery necklace in white gold with malachite, tiger eyes, coral, onyx, lapis, mother of pearls and turquoise, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires.
IL PALIO DI SIENA - High Jewellery necklace in white gold with malachite, tiger eyes, coral, onyx, lapis, mother of pearls and turquoise, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires.
In many towns in the south of Italy, there are annual festivals for “tarantella” folk dancing, which was once considered an antidote for tarantula bites. Those that had been bitten had to dance until they collapsed from exhaustion. Time past, and this unusual treatment was turned into one of the most popular dances in southern Italy which is usually performed at weddings and other family occasions. In honour of this folk dance, a necklace in the shape of a spider’s web has been designed from more than 40 carats of diamonds, two sautoirs, a bracelet and a pair of earrings.
TARANTELLA - High Jewellery bracelet-ring in platinum with 10 round brilliant cult diamonds (3.24ct), round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé-set diamonds (16.43ct).
TARANTELLA - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with round brilliant cut diamonds (17.29 ct), round brilliant cut and pavé-set diamonds (24.75 ct).
Does happiness always require a special occasion? Memories of birthdays, treats, cake and presents have been conjured by Lucia Silvestri in her truly “tasty” jewels. Amongst them are rings shaped like cakes made of pistachio, as well as lemon, raspberry, chocolate and cream pies. Pedants and brooches made of diamonds and coloured gemstones cut into ice cream or lollipop shapes have formed other bejewelled deserts.
I particularly love how the maison’s creative director has managed to disguise the multi-coloured motifs of an ice cream made of mother-of-pearl, turquoise, chrysoprase and sugilite in a collar necklace with almost 30 carats of diamonds. She also transformed party balloons into a necklace and gold earrings made with diamonds and other precious stones. In fact, what is a celebration without presents? Lucia Silvestri hasn’t forgotten about these either, including several pieces shaped to look like precious gift-wrapped boxes.
GELATI - High Jewellery brooch in pink gold with buff-top rubies (1.48 ct) and pavé-set diamonds (9.75 ct).
TORTA AL CIOCCOLATO - High Jewellery ring in pink gold with coral and chalcedony inserts, 5 sapphire beads (2.31 ct), 4 emerald beads (0.50 ct) and pavé-set diamonds (1.75 ct).
GELATI - High Jewellery brooch in pink gold with buff-top rubies (1.48 ct) and pavé-set diamonds (9.75 ct).
THE GIFT - High Jewellery necklace in pink gold with yellow green chalcedony, round brilliant cut diamonds (7.83 ct) and pavé-set diamonds (19.06 ct).
LECCA LECCA - High Jewellery brooch in pink gold with 1 emerald (0.28 ct), Fancy Intense Yellow pavé-set diamonds (0.58 ct) and pavé-set diamonds (2.07 ct).
PALLONCINI - High Jewellery necklace in pink gold with aquamarine, amethysts, emeralds, pink tourmalines, round diamonds and pavé-set diamonds.
CHOO CHOO - High Jewellery bracelet in pink gold with 1 emerald (1.28ct), 3 pink tourmalines (1.52ct), and pavé-set diamonds (2.15ct).
TORTA AL PISTACCHIO - High Jewellery ring in pink gold with chalcedony and agate inserts set with 1 cabochon emerald (2.11 ct) and pavé-set diamonds (0.86 ct).
In Rome itself, where, in 1884, Sotirio Bulgari founded his jewellery maison, resplendent parties and festivals have now been celebrated for more than two thousand years. As part of the new collection, Italy’s capital city has the Monete pendant watch dedicated to it, as well as the Monete Octo Finissimo Tourbillon secret watch and the magnificent Cuore di Roma (“Heart of Rome”) necklace with its 12.10 carat ruby. This genuine miracle of nature, originating from Mozambique, possesses a unique red colour. Indeed, red is not only the colour of passion and mirth, but also the colour of Rome’s coat of arms!
CUORE DI ROMA - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with 1 Mozambique oval ruby (12.10 ct), 2 diamonds (2.07 ct), 17 Akoya Cultured pearls, 42 rubies (4.03 ct) and diamonds (20.89 ct).
SECRET WATCH MONETE NECKLACE - High Jewellery necklace with secret watch, in pink gold set with 1 silver coin (Macedonia Alexander III, 336-326 B.C.), rubies, diamonds, skeletonized tourbillon lumiere watch with pink gold bridges decorated by hand.
SECRET WATCH MONETE NECKLACE - High Jewellery necklace with secret watch, in pink gold set with 1 silver coin (Macedonia Alexander III, 336-326 B.C.), rubies, diamonds, skeletonized tourbillon lumiere watch with pink gold bridges decorated by hand.
SECRET WATCH MONETE NECKLACE - High Jewellery necklace with secret watch, in pink gold set with 1 silver coin (Macedonia Alexander III, 336-326 B.C.), rubies, diamonds, skeletonized tourbillon lumiere watch with pink gold bridges decorated by hand.
OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON MONETE
OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON MONETE
OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON MONETE
Not one high jewellery collection by Bulgari is complete without some important gemstones. So, this new collection includes a diamond necklace adorned with a round cut emerald from Columbia weighing in at more than 53.57 carats. Another has an emerald from the same region which is shaped like a sugar loaf weighing 59.11 carats. A third has a round cabochon weighing a little over 26 carats. The Festa collection also has a few noteworthy sapphires, such as, for example, a Burmese specimen weighing 180.98 carats that sits on a chain with large links covered in diamonds, as well as a dark blue cushion-shaped 36.45 carat corundum.
THE GREEN LIZ - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with 1 cabochon Colombia emerald (59.11 ct), 1 pear shaped diamond (1.57 ct), 345 buff top emeralds (15.29 ct) and diamonds (40.68 ct).
SECRET MIRROR - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with rock crystal, 1 cushion Sri- Lanka sapphire (26.84 ct), Akoya pearls, beads of emerald (30.97 ct), beads sapphires (220.35 ct), round brilliant cut diamonds (10.25 ct).
IL MAGNIFICO DI BULGARI - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with 1 cabochon Burma sapphire (180.98 ct), rectangular, trapezoidal step cut diamonds and pavé diamonds (28.46 ct).
RAGGI BLUE - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with 1 cushion sapphire (36.45 ct), buff top sapphires (14.42 ct), round brilliant cut diamonds (11.37 ct), fancy shaped, step cut diamonds and pavé diamonds (6.28 ct).
IL GRANDIOSO - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with 1 round Colombia emerald (53.57 ct), 8 pear shaped diamonds (12.52 ct), 8 pear shaped emeralds (8.39 ct), pear shaped diamonds (11.98 ct), round and pavé-set diamonds (23.47 ct).
MERLETTO MAGNIFICO - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with 1 Zambia emerald (46.5 ct), diamonds (26.88 ct), baguette diamonds (4.89 ct) and pavé-set diamonds (11.21 ct).
ROYAL BALLROOM - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with 1 octagonal Colombia emerald (11.43 ct), 3 round brilliant cut diamonds (13.83 ct), 56 pear shaped diamonds (28.10 ct), buff top Emeralds (10.48 ct) and pavé diamonds (11.33 ct).
DANCING GOUNS - High Jewellery necklace in platinum with 1 cabochon Colombia emerald (26.54 ct), round brilliant cut diamonds (14.50 ct), buff-top emeralds (4.55 ct), baguette diamonds (3.09 ct), round brilliant cut diamonds and pavé diamonds (28.67 ct).
The Festa collection clearly demonstrates Bulgari’s creative approach to colour and form, which are, likely never before, vividly manifested in the maison’s 2017 collections.
WORDS
Katerina Perez Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
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