Trend: Juicy gems in fine jewellery design

May 9, 2019

10 min read

Large gemstones are the single most effective decorative design element that jewellers can use. Nothing is as impactful and pleasing to the eye as a large, vibrant gem: whether in person, in photography for print media, in advertising or online.

Not only do big gemstones have a huge appeal, but with the entire spectrum of coloured stones becoming lauded in fine jewellery, the variation of shades and tones which are available to designers and consumers alike is wider than ever!

For Spring/Summer 2019, a huge trend is gentle pastel tones in gemstones, as the more dramatic neon and richer shades tend to reach the height of their popularity in the Autumn/Winter season. These were formerly considered less desirable tones for gems, but a more subtle palette has emerged this year.

Veschetti 'Ortensia' ring with 7.81ct cushion cut tanzanite, emeralds and diamonds, necklace with an oval 39.05ct kunzite, oval tanzanites totaling 26.62ct, 6.28ct Colombian emeralds, and 14.20ct diamonds, and earrings with 1.38ct oval kunzites, emeralds and diamonds, all in 18k yellow gold

One way to showcase these gargantuan stones is to accentuate their colour, either by allowing the feature gem to ‘stand alone’ with minimal metalwork and details, or by purposely matching its tones with those of other bold decorative elements in that design. Some designers choose to use contrasting colour gemstones to highlight their natural hues to their fullest potential, whilst others opt for colourless diamonds to make allow the coloured gem to take centre stage.

However you prefer your jewellery, I have curated a selection of the very best and most exciting designs featuring juicy gems for your delectation!

Bulgari

'Future' necklace from the 'Wild Pop' collection with 36.41ct rubellite, citrine, topaz, pink tourmaline, amethyst and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Lorenz Bäumer

'Fleur de Nuit' ring from the ‘Black Magic’ collection with green tourmaline, Paraiba tourmaline, pink sapphire and lacquer in 18k white gold

Kat Florence

Ring with blue zircon and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Jessica McCormack

‘Daisy’ ring with sapphire and diamond in 18k white gold

Jochen Leen

Rings with Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Harry Winston

'Candy' ring with 16.69ct oval spessartite garnet, turquoise and diamonds in 18k white gold

Verdura

'Fulco' toggle bracelet with amethyst, citrine, South Sea cultured pearl, spinel and peridot in 18k yellow gold

Erica Courtney

'Empress' ring with colour change sapphire, Paraiba tourmaline, sapphire and diamond in 18k yellow gold

Goldesign Joais Janeiro

Earrings with 25.50ct emerald, amethyst, diamond, ruby, rubellite and turquoise in 18k yellow gold

Cartier

'Holika' bracelet from the ‘Coloratura’ collection with 30ct cushion cut rubellite, tourmaline, chrysoberyl and diamonds in 18k white gold

David Webb

'Turban' ring with carved emerald, amethyst, coral and diamond in 18k yellow gold

Carol Kauffmann

'Class' earrings with emerald cut topaz, rubellite and diamonds in 18k white gold

Boghossian

‘Merveilles’ ring with Mozambique ruby and diamonds in 18k white gold

Avakian

Ring with buff top amethyst, orange sapphires and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Sutra

Earrings with tanzanite, sapphire and diamond in 18k white and blackened gold

Podnebesnaya & Podnebesny

Earrings with freshwater pearls, spessartine garnet, rubellite and diamonds in 18k white gold

Tiffany&Co.

'Blue Book 2018' collection brooch with an emerald cut tanzanite of over 27ct, round and marquise sapphires of over 5ct, and round brilliant diamonds in platinum

Aisha Baker

'Mystèré' ring with citrine in enamel and 18k yellow gold

Boucheron

‘Cabochon Parfum’ ring with rubellite cabochon, diamond and onyx in 18k white gold

Ara Vartanian

Pendant necklace with rubellite, Paraiba tourmaline, black and colourless diamonds in 18k white gold

Piaget

'Green Aurora' manchette from the 'Sunlight Escape' collection with 14.53ct cushion cut tourmaline and diamonds in wood marquetry and 18k pink gold

Picchiotti

Necklace with 53.41ct kunzite, tsavorites and diamonds in 18k white gold

Margot McKinney

'Exotic Abundance' collar necklace with tsavorite, aquamarine, sapphire, peridot, diamonds and black opals in 18k yellow gold

Paolo Costagli

'Florentine' ring with blue topaz, tourmaline and diamonds in 18k white gold

NUUN Jewels

'El Hada' ring with rubellite and diamonds in enamel and 18k yellow gold

Nicholas Varney

Earrings with peridot, conch pearls and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Nina Runsdorf

Hoop earrings with multi-stone gems and diamond in 18k yellow gold

Nadine Aysoy

'Tsarina' earrings with beryl, fire opal and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Marina B

'Ezia' ring with tourmaline and blue topaz in 18k yellow gold

WORDS

Jodie Smith is a San Francisco based writer, trend forecaster and creative consultant specialising in the jewellery and luxury industries.

MADE WITH:

Zirconium Turquoise Tsavorite Tourmaline Topaz Tanzanite Spinel Spessartine Sapphire Rubellite Peridot Pearl Paraiba Tourmaline Opal Marquetry Lacquer Emerald Diamonds Coral Conch Pearl Citrine Chrysoberyl Beryl Aquamarine Amethyst

BRANDS:

Veschetti Verdura Tiffany&Co Sutra Podnebesnaya and Podnebesny Picchiotti Piaget Paolo Costagli NUUN Jewels Nina Runsdorf Nicholas Varney Nadine Aysoy Marina B Margot McKinney Lorenz Baumer Kat Florence Jochen Leen Jessica McCormack Harry Winston Goldesign Joais Janeiro Erica Courtney David Webb Cartier Carol Kauffman Bulgari Boucheron Boghossian Avakian Ara Vartanian Aisha Baker

JEWELLERY TYPE:

Ring Necklace Earrings Brooch Bracelet

Jewellery Interview

FORMS jewellery: Evolving concepts and pushing design boundaries

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox.

Jewellery Collections

Emerald Odyssey: Chopard Unveils its Insofu High Jewellery Collection

There's nothing quite like the thrill of a new collection unveiling. But what truly excites me isn't just the sparkle and glamour – it's when a brand takes a bold and unexpected approach. This is exactly what Chopard has done with its latest Insofu High Jewellery collection, which all started with the extraordinary 6,225-carat 'Insofu' rough emerald. Let's take a closer look at the creations that have emerged from this incredible mineral specimen

by Hirshi Sujanti

Watches Haute Horlogerie

Watches and Wonders 2025: The Best Jewellery Watches

From diamond-drenched serpents to enamelled blooms and secret talismans, these new jewellery watches unveiled in Geneva embody the artistry, emotion and extravagance of high jewellery watchmaking for women

by Rachael Taylor

Jewellery Profile

Refined Character: The Ancient-Meets-Modern Allure of Dionysios Fine Jewels

The Dionysios signature is all about warm, soulful jewellery that’s characterful without being overtly historical or too starkly modern. Let’s take a closer look at some of the brand’s highlights…

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Gallery

Blinded by the Light: The April Birthstone Through the Lens of Diamond Pavé

Let's consider pieces that showcase this method of craftsmanship in all its sparkling glory…

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Interview

Love Language: Introducing the Expressive Creations of Zome Jewellery

For designers like Meghna Biswas, the woman behind Zome Jewellery in the United Arab Emirates, the process of transforming coloured gemstones and precious metals into beautiful creations is an ever-evolving love language

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Editorials

Diamond Garden: Creating Digital Delights with AI Artist Anastasia Rogozhina

Take a look and consider the incredible feats that artificial intelligence can achieve in empowering creativity and broadening our minds

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Auctions

100 Years of Art Deco: Top 10 Pieces of Art Deco Jewellery Sold at Auction

From the legendary Van Cleef & Arpels Jarretière bracelet worn by Marlene Dietrich to a striking aigrette that was once part of the Al Thani collection, all the pieces below are infused with the fearless originality of the Jazz Age

by Claire Roberts

Jewellery Interview

Spirited Jewels: The Expressive Creativity of Elena Semy Jewellery

Today, I'd like to introduce you to the creative designs of Elena Semy Jewellery and Elena, the artist behind them

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Trends

Rings of Power: Bold Torques are Making a Fine Jewellery Comeback

This powerful necklace with ancient roots is reclaiming its place in contemporary jewellery collections. Its sleek yet rigid silhouette speaks to confident women who want to assert a quiet power. Plus, it is the perfect setting for a chic diamond drop.

by Rachael Taylor

Gemstones Diamonds

Ocean Depths: Sotheby’s to Auction the Fancy Vivid Mediterranean Blue Diamond

This sensational stone is due to be unveiled globally in Abu Dhabi on April 8 and will be auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva on May 13. Before the bidding flurry commences, let’s take a closer look at this rare blue specimen that’s estimated to sell for in the region of US$20 million

by Sarah Jordan

Jewellery Knowledge

All That Jazz: 100 Years of Art Deco Jewellery

This wonderfully decadent period of Prohibition parties, glittering cocktail soirées and exuberant Art Deco jewellery, which straddled more than a quarter of a century from 1908 to 1935, had a profound effect on society that touched upon almost every aspect of life in its pursuit of beauty, with the worlds of art, adornment, fashion, interiors, architecture and technology all irreversibly changed as a result

by Claire Roberts

Jewellery Styling

Girls Just Want To Have Fun: An Elevated Take On Nostalgic and Joyous Jewellery

The days have just gotten lighter, which makes them seem longer, indicating that Spring will soon be here. And today, on April Fool’s Day, we begin to feel a sense of frivolity and play. Therefore, we hope to put a smile on your face with this article dedicated to jewellery with a dash of humour and a whole lot of wit

by Beth Bernstein

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Jewellery Collections

Century of Splendour:Louis Vuitton Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds Chapter II

Creative Director Francesca Amfitheatrof offers her unique interpretation of a pivotal period in France’s history, marked by the French Revolution, the Napoleonic era, and the rise of industrialism

by Sarah Jordan