Sotheby’s Auctions: Large Gems in the Spotlight This Spring

April 7, 2021

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

The public appearance of major precious stones – that is stones that exceed the normal size and dimensions of their precious “colleagues” – is an ever-significant event in the world of jewellery. Invariably questions start being asked: How does this new piece compare with already known outliers? What price will it go for? What design will this stone bring to life? All of these questions add a sense of excitement to the otherwise routine act of buying and selling a stone that weighs several dozen carats. Now, readers, imagine the reaction when it was announced the world’s leading jewellery auctioneer, Sotheby’s, will present an array of these remarkable stones all in one sale!

Traditionally, stones with large carat weights and those that are high quality are, understandably, in great demand. Consequently, trading them becomes something of a battle of the titans. Today, such stones are attracting additional interest from a wide range of buyers due to a growing availability shortage. They are increasingly appreciated as phenomenally rare wonders of the natural world that are appealing for investors, but also for their potential in fine jewellery creations.

A diamond necklace by Harry Winston, circa 1973, with eight pear-shaped diamonds weighing from 3.77 to 20.72 carats, representing a total of 280 carats, to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Geneva auction in May 2021

A diamond necklace by Harry Winston, circa 1973, with eight pear-shaped diamonds weighing from 3.77 to 20.72 carats, representing a total of 280 carats, to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Geneva auction in May 2021

 An unmounted 39.88 carat emerald-cut D colour, flawless, Type IIa diamond to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels auction in Hong Kong in April 2021

An unmounted 39.88 carat emerald-cut D colour, flawless, Type IIa diamond to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels auction in Hong Kong in April 2021

 A 43.35 carat emerald-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond ring, mounted by Cartier, to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels auction in Hong Kong in April 2021

A 43.35 carat emerald-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond ring, mounted by Cartier, to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels auction in Hong Kong in April 2021

 A 40.08 carat square emerald-cut D-colour, flawless, Type IIa diamond with excellent polish and symmetry to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Geneva auction in May 2021

A 40.08 carat square emerald-cut D-colour, flawless, Type IIa diamond with excellent polish and symmetry to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Geneva auction in May 2021

 A 43.24 carat pear-shaped, D-colour, VVS1 clarity, Type IIa diamond ring by Harry Winston to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Geneva auction in May 2021

A 43.24 carat pear-shaped, D-colour, VVS1 clarity, Type IIa diamond ring by Harry Winston to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Geneva auction in May 2021

Gary Schuler, Chairman of the World Jewellery Division of Sotheby’s, says: “The fascination for large gems goes back centuries. Shrouded in mystery and steeped in legend, these stones have been treasured by rulers, while also prized for their presumed magical powers, and even sometimes feared for being cursed. In recent years, by virtue of the market’s increasing connoisseurship, we have seen demand for these gems grow fast and far beyond the traditional pool of collectors. These new buyers are looking for different kinds of stones, and this is reflected in the great diversity of this season’s offering, which range from unmounted world-class diamonds and diamond-led jewellery, to pieces with noble provenance and signed jewels marrying colourful gemstones with the extraordinary craftsmanship of renowned houses, such as Cartier and Harry Winston.”

An 80.45 carat step-cut Colombian emerald and diamond brooch (left) and a 104.40 carat Colombian pear-shaped emerald and diamond brooch by Harry Winston (right). Both jewels come from an Important Noble Collection and will be offered in the Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction in Geneva in May 2021

An 80.45 carat step-cut Colombian emerald and diamond brooch (left) and a 104.40 carat Colombian pear-shaped emerald and diamond brooch by Harry Winston (right). Both jewels come from an Important Noble Collection and will be offered in the Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction in Geneva in May 2021

But enough talking! Let’s take a look at a few future stars of this notable Sotheby’s auction. I’ll start with two unique brooches adorned with diamonds and emeralds. The first, set with a 104.40 carat Colombian emerald, was designed by Harry Winston and dates from 1974. Even a quick glance at this droplet of deep green is enough to make one freeze as if enchanted. In my 12-year career in the jewellery industry, I have only ever encountered an emerald of this size on three previous occasions. In the centre of the second brooch is a no-less beautiful 80.45 carat step-cut Colombian emerald. The estimated cost of the brooches is between 1 and 1.5 million dollars for the former and between 2.5 and 3.5 million for the latter. If they take your fancy, readers, you can bid for them at the Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auctions in Geneva on May 11.

A 126.43 carat cushion-shaped Ceylon sapphire and diamond necklace by Harry Winston, circa 1969, to be sold by Sotheby’s at the Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction in Geneva in May 2021

A 126.43 carat cushion-shaped Ceylon sapphire and diamond necklace by Harry Winston, circa 1969, to be sold by Sotheby’s at the Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction in Geneva in May 2021

 The 126.43 carat cushion-shaped Ceylon sapphire and diamond pendant in this can Harry Winston necklace can be detached and worn as a brooch

The 126.43 carat cushion-shaped Ceylon sapphire and diamond pendant in this can Harry Winston necklace can be detached and worn as a brooch

 An 111.73 carat cushion-shaped Ceylon sapphire of ‘royal blue’ colour sits at the centre of this diamond pendant necklace, to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction in Geneva in May 2021

An 111.73 carat cushion-shaped Ceylon sapphire of ‘royal blue’ colour sits at the centre of this diamond pendant necklace, to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction in Geneva in May 2021

 The 111.73 carat Ceylon ‘royal blue’ sapphire and diamond pendant supported by this necklace can be removed and worn as a brooch

The 111.73 carat Ceylon ‘royal blue’ sapphire and diamond pendant supported by this necklace can be removed and worn as a brooch

The largest sapphire of the upcoming auction will be a 126.43 carat Ceylon treasure that adorns a detachable necklace pendant, also from Harry Winston, created around 1969. Its estimated cost is between 1.2 and 1.8 million dollars. Whether buyers will be willing to pay even more than these estimations will become known only upon completion of the auction in Geneva on May 11th. It should be noted for anyone who might wish to bid on these items that, when it comes to sapphires, an important factor when considering investment potential is not so much the carat weight as the place where the corundum was mined. The Magnificent Jewels auction will see the sale of a brooch previously owned by Maureen Constance Guinness, the Marquis of Dufferin and Ava, with the largest Kashmir sapphire – weighing in at 55.19 carats – which has ever been presented at auction. The second Kashmir sapphire in the brooch weighs an astonishing 25.97 carats (not bad for a supporting act!). The price of the piece? Between two and three million dollars. I have discussed in a past article just what it is that is so special about sapphires from this mining site. You can find that piece here.

The largest Kashmir sapphire ever to appear at auction – a 1930s sapphire and diamond brooch featuring a 55.19 carat oval gem alongside a cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire weighing 25.97 carats – will be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva in May 2021

The largest Kashmir sapphire ever to appear at auction – a 1930s sapphire and diamond brooch featuring a 55.19 carat oval gem alongside a cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire weighing 25.97 carats – will be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva in May 2021

If you like to be blown away by astonishing sums, keep an eye out for the Magnificent Jewels auction in Hong Kong, which will take place on April 20th. Of the items on display, I found myself drawn to the architecturally crafted Cartier rock crystal bracelet, with a phenomenal 63.66 carat D-colour, Type IIa pear-cut diamond at its centre. Its estimated cost is anywhere between 5.2 and 8.4 million dollars! No doubt this piece will draw passionate competition among bidders. Similarly, significant competition awaits those wishing to purchase a diamond ring from Cartier adorned with a 43.35 carat fancy vivid yellow emerald cut diamond, surrounded by an array of dazzling colourless diamonds. This piece has an estimated value of between 2.39 and 3.1 million dollars.

Cartier diamond and rock crystal bangle with a 63.66 carat pear-shaped diamond to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels Hong Kong auction in April 2021

Cartier diamond and rock crystal bangle with a 63.66 carat pear-shaped diamond to be sold by Sotheby’s at its Magnificent Jewels Hong Kong auction in April 2021

 The 63.66 carat pear-shaped diamond in this Cartier diamond and rock crystal bangle is an internally flawless Type IIa stone with D-colour

The 63.66 carat pear-shaped diamond in this Cartier diamond and rock crystal bangle is an internally flawless Type IIa stone with D-colour

A Madagascan sapphire of 82.54 carats, a royal blue Ceylon sapphire of 111.73 carats, a flawless loose diamond of D colour and Type IIa weighing a mouth-watering 41.50 carats… these are but some of the stunning lots available in the forthcoming auctions! Now, like you readers, I find myself counting down the days to discover the results of Sotheby’s sales taking place on April 15 in New York, April 20 in Hong Kong and May 11 in Geneva.

Graff: Launch of New Tribal Collection Coincides with Spring Equinox

continue reading

Black Tie Affair: The Best Jewellery Looks of the BAFTAs Red Carpet 2025

Let's look at some of the best jewellery of the BAFTAs 2025…

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation at GemGenève: What Constitutes Exceptional Design?

Can you pinpoint exactly the combination of factors that make you stop and do a double-take when shopping for jewellery? Could you write a list? It’s incredibly difficult to do so, which is why it was a great way to kick off this GemGenève session! Vivienne said she responds to a jewel that “captures its […]

by Katerina Perez

Rule-Breakers: The Most Iconic British Jewellers of the 1960s

Bored of the reproductions of Victorian and Art Deco jewellery, John Donald entered London’s jewellery scene in the early 1960s looking to disrupt. Being confined by what he could afford at the time, Donald created pieces with gold rods, which were less expensive than gold bars. This decision would lead to his signature geometric motif. Having […]

by Rachael Taylor

Immortalising Memories: The Deeply Personal Creations of Kyan Jewelry 

“Jewellery is an emotional carrier that connects you with your essence and your true self,” - Kyan Jewelry Founder Amal Sanad

by Sarah Jordan

Bezel Beauties: Get to Know Bezel-Set Diamond Jewellery

Let's take a closer look at the practical appeal of this great setting style…

by Aliki Barnes

Nature’s Miracles: Capturing the Magic of Natural Pearls with Pearl Biography 

I spoke to Ahmed Mattar, the Founder of Bahraini brands Pearl Biography and Yka Pearls, to discover the allure of natural pearls and their unique place in Bahrain's culture

by Sarah Jordan

Love Stories: Jewellers Share Their Most Romantic Commissions

For Valentine’s Day, I asked six designers what the most romantic commission they ever received

by Rachael Taylor

Jewel of the Month: Taking Flight with The Gift of Love Necklace by Graff 

Let’s examine this feat of jewellery artisanship and celebrate its status as our ‘Jewel of the Month’ for February 2025

by Sarah Jordan

Nature’s Folio: The Boucheron Untamed Nature High Jewellery Collection

Be prepared to feel transported to the French countryside, somewhere in the 19th century, armed with only a graphite pencil and the very earliest monochrome camera…

by Sarah Jordan

Galentine Gifts: Jewels to Celebrate Female Friendships this Valentine’s Day

If you are searching for the perfect present to spoil the hero BFFs in your universe, start with this shopping guide by Rachael Taylor

by Rachael Taylor

Ready for Love: Heart-Shaped Jewels for the Perfect Valentine’s Day

Find the perfect heart for your lover with Rachael Taylor’s guide to the latest designs, from chubby diamonds to gold embroidery and magical opals

by Rachael Taylor

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Jewel of the Month: Taking Flight with The Gift of Love Necklace by Graff

Let’s examine this feat of jewellery artisanship and celebrate its status as our ‘Jewel of the Month’ for February 2025

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.