A Vision of JAR: The Largest Collection Comes to Auction

June 2, 2022

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

The upcoming Christie’s New York sale of 12 pieces of jewellery crafted by the legendary art jeweller JAR has sparked excitement among collectors. The jewels were owned by one of his most fervent and earliest collectors, the late American scientist Ann Getty. Not only are they a testament to the designer’s creativity, but we believe they are dazzling examples of the friendship that can so often bloom between collector and creator.

There are few names in the world of collectable jewellery that are uttered with more reverence than that of Joel Arthur Rosenthal, who creates his bejewelled masterpieces under the moniker JAR. The notoriously secretive jeweller, who was born in America but now resides in Paris with an atelier near Place Vendôme, is beloved for his colourful creativity that clashes unexpected colours and materials together to create fantastical creations. As one of his prolific collectors, the actress and producer Ellen Barkin, puts it: “He’s like the Matisse of our time.”

JAR citrine, garnet and diamond Pansy brooches in silver and 18k yellow gold (1988), to be sold by Christie’s New York in June 2022

JAR sapphire, diamond, tourmaline and green garnet Green Orchid brooches in silver and 18k yellow gold (1988), to be sold by Christie’s New York in June 2022

JAR diamond, ruby and coloured sapphire Fleur-Pompons brooches in 18k white gold (1989), to be sold by Christie’s New York in June 2022

Rosenthal was born in New York City in 1943 and studied art history and philosophy at Harvard University before making the move to high jewellery’s heartland, although jewellery was not his first creative foray. He started his life in Paris by opening a needlepoint shop and produced work for the likes of Hermés and Valentino. It was taking a job with Bulgari in New York that adjusted his trajectory, and in 1977 he returned to Paris and opened a jewellery store with his partner Pierre Jeannet.

JAR Vitrail Fleur De Lys brooch with amethysts, pink tourmalines, garnets and round diamonds in silver and 18k yellow gold (1987)

JAR produces about 70 pieces a year but is selective as to who can purchase them, driving a scarcity that further enflames his cult-like following. One exception to this rule was his 2002 exhibition at Somerset House in London, for which he created 1,000 pairs of his aluminium Pansy earrings for visitors to purchase. They sold out within days.

JAR’s inner circle of collectors has included many high-profile names, such as actress Elizabeth Taylor, broadcaster Barbara Walters and model Elle Macpherson, as well as members of royal families. For those yet to break into this select group, the best chance of securing a piece is at auction, which makes the upcoming sale of Ann Getty’s collection of JAR jewels, part of the Magnificent Jewels auction at Christie’s New York on June 8, 2022, so exciting.

JAR multi-gemstone and diamond Leaf brooch with a cushion-cut emerald of 11.96 carats, further emeralds, beryls, peridots, garnets, green tourmalines and diamonds in 14k and 18k yellow gold, platinum and silver (1989)

Getty was an early supporter of JAR’s work. The American scientist, who was born in 1941 to Californian farmer parents, specialised in biology and anthropology. As such, she found synergy between her own passions and the creative pursuits of Rosenthal, who often includes flora and fauna in his work.

The two developed not only a professional jeweller-client relationship but a deep friendship that led to collaborating on many bespoke commissions that would spark fresh ideas. As Rosenberg himself says: “From the very beginning, this lady, you, dear Ann, imagined the future of my imagination, seeing and picking the cherries that became your collection.”

JAR Zebra brooch with agate, diamonds, sapphires and black enamel in silver and 18k yellow gold (1987)

Such a fruitful relationship as Getty and Rosenthal’s is something other designers working in close proximity to their collectors can relate to. “As a jewellery artist, I appreciate the collector would be building a connection to the creator,” says high jewellery designer Feng J, who has an atelier not far from JAR’s in Paris and considers the legendary designer to be an inspiration. 

It’s a treasure when my collectors have been reading my thoughts through my work and appreciate it in depth. The jewellery is a bridge between myself and them.

JAR Oak Leaf earrings with pink and green tourmalines, garnets, amethysts, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds in silver and 18k yellow gold (1988), to be sold by Christie’s New York in June 2022

JAR pink topaz and diamond Fleurs earrings in silver and 18k yellow gold (1989), to be sold by Christie’s New York in June 2022

JAR sapphire, diamond and garnet earrings in silver and 18k yellow gold, to be sold by Christie’s New York in June 2022

JAR Shell brooch with rubies and spinels in silver and 18k yellow gold (1990), to be sold by Christie’s New York in June 2022

The auction of Ann Getty’s JAR collection at Christie’s on June 8 is, according to the auction house, “one of the largest and most important private collections of works by the visionary designer to appear at auction”. There will be 12 jewels offered for sale, which are collectively expected to fetch $1.5 million, and within those one-off pieces of high jewellery you can see the intermingling of JAR’s creativity and Getty’s personality.

A tulip brooch made in 1990 and seeded with rubies, pink sapphires, green garnets, green tourmalines and diamonds is a nod to Getty’s Dutch heritage. A zebra brooch, carved from banded agate that naturally mimics the animal’s stripes, references the scientist’s many anthropological digs in Africa.

JAR Parrot Tulip brooch with round rubies, pink sapphires, green garnets, green tourmalines, diamonds and black lacquer in silver and 18k yellow and rose gold (1991)

“Ann Getty’s personal collection of JAR reflected her innate curiosity and impeccable taste for jewellery that was both beautifully crafted and evoked memories of her family and research trips abroad,” says Daphne Lingon, head of the jewellery department at Christie’s Americas. “Her jewels tell the story of a woman pursuing ideal beauty and a lifelong appreciation of craftspeople. Only works by JAR achieve the balance of nature, colour and form that she loved so much.”

Ann and Gordon Getty, 2014. Mrs. Getty is wearing a multi-gem and diamond leaf brooch by JAR. Courtesy of the Getty family.

It will certainly be exciting to watch this auction unfold and to witness the prices that these pieces achieve. Could we see some record-breaking jewels emerge? Let’s wait and see.

Glorious Garnets: Why This Lesser-Known Gemstone is Undergoing a Renaissance

Found in the jewellery of Egyptian pharaohs and ancient Romans, the Victorians adored the red variety of garnet for which this gemstone is best known. Jewellery in the 19th century wasn’t just an accessory; it was a vehicle of expression

by Claire Roberts

Heavy Metal: The Trend For Bold Gold Medallions Gathers Pace

Medallions infused with meaning are hot property right now, as jewellery lovers fall for the symbolism and style of these statement designs.

by Rachael Taylor

New Horizons: Building a New Life in Hong Kong with Valentina Fine Jewellery 

Life can take you in unexpected directions – this is one thing I know for sure. Sometimes, though, these directions can lead to hugely exciting, life-altering events!

by Sarah Jordan

Star of Singapore: Exploring the Incredible Legacy of B.P. de Silva 

The brand’s heritage traces back more than 150 years and it is now run by the fifth generation of the founding family. It is a real destination.

by Katerina Perez

Kiss and Tell: How Selena Gomez Put Marquise Diamonds on the Map

The marquise diamond has found itself in the spotlight once again as the star of Selena Gomez's engagement ring

by Rachael Taylor

Hero Talisman: My Bespoke Superwoman Ring by Sabine Roemer and Minehaus

Sabine has known me for many years; she has witnessed me grow and develop as a writer and a key opinion leader (KOL), so she felt that I deserve my own ring – an exquisite reminder of who I am

by Katerina Perez

Dramatic or Demure: The Best Jewellery Looks of the Golden Globes 2025

Think ultra-feminine jewellery dressing and you’ll be on the right lines! Here’s a rundown of the top looks…

by Sarah Jordan

Subscription banner

Katerina PerezClub

Step into a universe devoted to jewellery that has been especially curated to indulge your passion, impart knowledge and inspire the next steps on your jewellery journey. Discover exclusive content you won’t find elsewhere.

join the club

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Gem Focus:Brazil Gem Commerce

Discover a company specialising in the cutting and trading of Brazilian and African precious gems, including Paraiba, rubellite and morganite

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Ask Katerina:Diamond Jewellery Styling Tips for Modern Dressing

Here are some of the answers I gave during the presentation to aid your jewellery dressing…

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.