Jewellery Manifesto: Tracing Three Pivotal Decades with Pomellato Collezione 1967

Time is a funny thing. It has the power to crystallise a sense of style so that we can see an evolution of ideas, inspirations and motifs over time. Brands that have been established for decades, if not centuries, can transport us into the past while also demonstrating what their unique vision for the future looks like. With Collezione 1967, Pomellato is presenting its ‘Jewellery Manifesto’ through 75 pieces, each inspired by one of three revolutionary decades in its creative history: the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. Let’s take a closer look at the Maison’s artistic signatures, reinvented for a new generation of high jewellery lovers… 

Brands dipping into their archives for inspiration is nothing new, but there’s something especially ambitious about Pomellato’s latest high jewellery offering. Collezione 1967 is described by the Maison as a “revolutionary statement of creative independence” that distils its most recognisable silhouettes and motifs into something refined and contemporary. The offering is split into three chapters devoted to a particular decade – the innovative chains of the 1970s, the sculptural designs of the 1980s, and the colourful exuberance of the 1990s. Each has contributed to the unique aesthetic language of the Italian brand, which is what helps to make its designs so distinctive and recognisable today. We saw some of the pieces briefly at the Cannes Film Festival, but now we have the chance to dive deeper.  

The Chain Revolution: 1970s

Chunky chains are undoubtedly a signature of Pomellato, but it’s interesting to hear about their roots (for the Maison) in the 1970s as a symbol of change, rebellion and innovation. It was during this decade that Pomellato’s founder, Pino Rabolini, opted to reimagine the chain’s role in luxury jewellery, tapping into Milanese goldsmithing traditions but also the disco energy of the world at the time. Despite their size, the brand’s chains have always been second-skin-like, focusing on form and femininity rather than heft. 

In this chapter of Collezione 1967, we find 20 new pieces, including The Art of Chains bracelet that layers four different chains in rose gold, white gold and pavé-set diamonds, complete with a rectangular-shaped pavé-set diamond clasp. The remaining pieces are more colourful in nature, typically set with a single large, coloured gemstone as a showstopping centrepiece. Examples include the Yellow Diamond Moon with a 12-carat fancy light yellow diamond set on a diamond-pavé gourmette and round link chain; the Blue Chain Cascade necklace with round and oval-shaped links leading to a 22.23 carat Ceylon sapphire; the Aquamarine Dream necklace with dégradé links that gradually increase in size, a 37.98-carat aquamarine cabochon and a pear-shaped aquamarine drop of 15.95 carats, and the Precious Spring belt, which transforms into a bracelet and pendant, crafted in rose gold with baguette-cut diamonds and pavé-set white diamonds.

Rule Breakers: 1980s

In homage to the 1980s, Pomellato has captured the decade’s penchant for experimentation, power dressing and boldness through 18 pieces. According to the Maison, this era contributed to Pomellato’s architectural and structural approach to jewellery craftsmanship, which is evident in the volume and shapeliness of the flagship Asimmetrico Tanzanite necklace. This piece, which debuted at Cannes, is set with an irregularly-cut 55.96-carat tanzanite and enhanced by a custom-made bezel setting in a flexible 18k gold design. To create this rippling finish, there are 78 diamond-set ‘modules’, each one connected to the next in a process that required more than 700 hours of craftsmanship. A matching ring with a 37.73-carat tanzanite completes the suite. 

The asymmetry seen in these pieces is something that’s mirrored throughout the 1980s chapter of Collezione 1967. There’s the Fantina Necktie necklace with a looping rope of diamonds; the Asimmetrico necklace with aquamarines buried in a collar of pavé diamonds, and the Rivière Zigzag necklace with either green tourmalines (47.31 carats) or rubellites (50.85 carats), accented with diamonds. 

Finally, there’s the Zigzag Supreme necklace that blends chains with fancy-cut tanzanites – almost like the Maison is melding 1970s and 1980s themes into one piece. The graduated zigzag chain comes from Pomellato’s archives, although it has been emphasised with diamonds for a High Jewellery finish. There’s a shield-shaped tanzanite of 23.78 carats plus a hexagonal gem of 19.91 carats, both with deep blue-violet hues. 

A Colourful Vision: 1990s

The 1990s-inspired chapter of Collezione 1967 is by far the biggest. There are 37 pieces dedicated to the decade of optimism, music, movie magic and explosive colour. Culturally, this was a time in which the world felt joyful and limitless, and so it is easy to see this inspiration in Pomellato’s jewels. According to the brand: “This period unveiled Pomellato’s mastery of colour, a defining moment when the Maison discovered its true creative voice. Through exploring radical combinations of extraordinary gemstones and innovative cuts combined with bold volumes, this chromatic expertise introduced a new dimension to Pomellato’s aesthetic vocabulary, becoming integral to its identity.”

Here, we see bold chains and silhouettes but with a tempting selection of Marvelous Griffe cocktail rings and complementary earrings, each set with knock-out cabochons in every colour of the rainbow. Highlights include mandarin garnets, watermelon tourmalines, deep green tourmalines, heliodors and misty blue indigolites. Personally, I am drawn to the Hypnotic Beryl necklace with a vibrant blue cabochon on a diamond-set chain and the chunky Duetto ring with an orange garnet and green tourmaline set side-by-side like a rock ‘n’ roll toi et moi. 

Ask Pomellato, and it will tell you its favourites in this chapter are the Lagoon Bavarole necklace (with a matching ring) and the Iconica Extreme suite with a necklace, bracelet, earrings and a ring. The former is set with swags of 47 irregular-cut green tourmalines, with shades ranging from palest green to deep inky blue, cascading from a diamond pavé-set rope chain. The latter is more restrained in colour but not in character, featuring rose gold links with baguette-cut diamonds and round brilliant-cut diamonds. A wild card comes in the form of the Iconica Extreme emerald ring with a 12.27-carat cushion-cut beryl, enhanced with further emeralds and diamonds in a pavé setting.

So, what do you think of Pomellato’s ‘Jewellery Manifesto’? Personally, we think it is quite triumphant… and just a little bit deceptive. Despite their punchy simplicity, there are some incredibly complex pieces in Collezione 1967, which no doubt garnered a raised eyebrow or two from the Maison’s artisans! This is a brand that is proud of its creative history and committed to its signature style; long may this attitude continue.