Finishing Touch: How Jewellers Set Deep Gemstones in Their Designs

Working with deep stones presents its own set of challenges, but it’s these very obstacles that push designers to get creative. Whether it’s employing reverse setting techniques or using intricate latticework to let the stone breathe, designers are always rethinking how to highlight a stone’s beauty while keeping it securely in place. From edgy, avant-garde methods to more classical yet creative solutions, setting deep gemstones has become a true showcase of artisan craftsmanship at its finest.

The trick, as Elizabeth Gage puts it, is to plan ahead and consider the weight distribution to ensure comfort, whether the piece is a ring, pendant or earring. As Garnazelle’s Celine Rivet points out, the setting should be inconspicuous, allowing the majesty of the stone to take centre stage. So whether it’s about balancing proportions or playing with new techniques, the beauty of a deep stone lies in its unique ability to inspire bold and thoughtful design choices.

Breathing Techniques

Jewellery designers like Nigel O’Reilly emphasise the importance of allowing a gemstone to breathe. Encasing a stone in too much metal can overpower its beauty, making the entire piece appear bulky. To combat this, O’Reilly often uses “open cut-out sections and fine latticework,” which enable light to pass through the stone and highlight its vibrant colours and facets. This method ensures that the stone remains the focal point of the piece while maintaining an airy and elegant design. By embracing techniques such as reverse settings and open designs, the beauty of deep stones is enhanced without adding unnecessary bulk.

On the other hand, Garnazelle’s Rivet prefers an “inconspicuous setting” because she says it emphasises the majesty of the stone. Her use of minimalistic ball settings, often combined with gold branches, allows the stone to shine while keeping the overall design balanced and refined. These techniques, often seen in luxury collections, prioritise both visual impact and comfort for the wearer.

Top Settings for Deep Stones

Selecting the right setting for deep stones is a technical and artistic challenge. Prong settings are commonly used to highlight the natural beauty of a stone, allowing maximum light to enter and reflect through it, creating brilliance and sparkle. However, for deep stones, this must be carefully balanced. Los Angeles-based jeweller Robert Procop, who primarily uses prongs to set large sapphires, emeralds, rubellites and other gems, tells us: “We cut our stones in-house, and all of them have their personality, brilliance and life. So, I always look at how this personality can be complemented or exaggerated, what can be sculptured around the centre stone to make it truly shine and if I should use prongs or bezel settings to benefit the gem.”

Bezel settings, where a thin metal rim encircles the stone, offer a sleek, modern alternative that provides security while minimising the overall profile of the stone. This setting is ideal for active lifestyles or larger stones that may be prone to damage. Designers like Elizabeth Gage advocate using bezel or partial-bezel settings for deep stones as they offer both protection and visual appeal. A great example is her mint green tourmaline Charlemagne ring. These settings also reduce the chance of a ring feeling top-heavy or uncomfortable to wear, a common issue with deep stones.

Materials also play a crucial role when working with deep stones. Gold is highly malleable, meaning it can be easily shaped and manipulated to accommodate deeper gems without losing its structural integrity. Celine Rivet primarily uses yellow gold in her settings for Garnazelle. A prime example is the Poudre d’Escampette ring, crafted from 18k recycled yellow gold and set with a vibrant orange tourmaline.

Balancing the Depth of the Stone

However beautiful, a deep stone poses unique design challenges. Nigel O’Reilly explains that even minor adjustments, such as altering the width of a ring’s shank by just 0.2 millimetres, can bring the entire piece back into balance. This meticulous attention to proportions ensures that the depth of the stone does not overwhelm the overall design or detract from its aesthetic appeal.

When it comes to rings, it seems that a lot of the comfort of cocktail designs is related to the ring’s shank. Robert Procop shares his secrets, explaining: “When I have a larger stone to work with, I think of weight distribution in the jewel as it needs to be balanced properly. If we are creating a ring, we put a spring inside the shank to make it hug the finger tighter and sit comfortably on it without tilting to the side.”

Elizabeth Gage echoes this sentiment, advising that deep stones can sometimes sit too high on a ring, making the piece uncomfortable or prone to tipping. In such cases, setting the stone in a pendant or pin might be a better solution. By considering the overall balance of the piece, designers can ensure both beauty and wearability.

Weight Distribution and Comfort

The weight distribution of deep stones is another important factor. In earrings, for example, a poorly balanced deep stone can cause the piece to swing forward, resulting in discomfort and poor aesthetics. Elizabeth Gage highlights the importance of carefully planning the weights of each component and adjusting the positioning of the fittings to maintain comfort and balance. She adds that it is “important to be conscious of the centre of gravity when designing pieces”.

In rings, deep stones can cause the head of the ring to be too heavy, leading to constant slipping or discomfort. By focusing on the design of the shank, designers can counterbalance this weight, ensuring that the ring is both beautiful and easy to wear.

One of the key challenges designers face when setting deep stones is ensuring that the stone does not become damaged during the setting process. Deep stones, particularly those which are softer according to the Moh’s hardness scale (it measures a mineral’s resistance to scratching), require careful handling. As you can see, setting deep stones in fine jewellery is a delicate balancing act that requires technical expertise, creativity, and planning. Designers must consider everything from the setting to the distribution of weight and choice of materials to ensure that the stone is both secure and aesthetically pleasing. By employing specific techniques with a deep understanding of gemstones, these masters of craft create pieces that allow the stone to shine in all its glory while ensuring that the final product is wearable, comfortable, and timeless.