Finishing Touch: How Jewellers Set Deep Gemstones in Their Designs

December 6, 2024

By Aliki Barnes

6 min read

Working with deep stones presents its own set of challenges, but it’s these very obstacles that push designers to get creative. Whether it’s employing reverse setting techniques or using intricate latticework to let the stone breathe, designers are always rethinking how to highlight a stone’s beauty while keeping it securely in place. From edgy, avant-garde methods to more classical yet creative solutions, setting deep gemstones has become a true showcase of artisan craftsmanship at its finest.

The trick, as Elizabeth Gage puts it, is to plan ahead and consider the weight distribution to ensure comfort, whether the piece is a ring, pendant or earring. As Garnazelle’s Celine Rivet points out, the setting should be inconspicuous, allowing the majesty of the stone to take centre stage. So whether it’s about balancing proportions or playing with new techniques, the beauty of a deep stone lies in its unique ability to inspire bold and thoughtful design choices.

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From left to right, all Garnazelle: Topkapi ring with pink tourmalines in 18k yellow gold, Balls of Love ring with tiger’s eye quartz in 18k yellow gold, Tropical Flower ring in 18k yellow gold, Balls of Love ring with coral in 18k yellow gold and a Mini Love Balls ring with Chrysoprase in 18k yellow gold

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Nigel O'Reilly Ad Lucem ring with a 11.19-carat blue topaz, rubies, sapphires and diamonds in 18k rose gold

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