Finishing Touch: How Jewellers Set Deep Gemstones in Their Designs

December 6, 2024

By Aliki Barnes

6 min read

Working with deep stones presents its own set of challenges, but it’s these very obstacles that push designers to get creative. Whether it’s employing reverse setting techniques or using intricate latticework to let the stone breathe, designers are always rethinking how to highlight a stone’s beauty while keeping it securely in place. From edgy, avant-garde methods to more classical yet creative solutions, setting deep gemstones has become a true showcase of artisan craftsmanship at its finest.

The trick, as Elizabeth Gage puts it, is to plan ahead and consider the weight distribution to ensure comfort, whether the piece is a ring, pendant or earring. As Garnazelle’s Celine Rivet points out, the setting should be inconspicuous, allowing the majesty of the stone to take centre stage. So whether it’s about balancing proportions or playing with new techniques, the beauty of a deep stone lies in its unique ability to inspire bold and thoughtful design choices.

From left to right, all Garnazelle: Topkapi ring with pink tourmalines in 18k yellow gold, Balls of Love ring with tiger’s eye quartz in 18k yellow gold, Tropical Flower ring in 18k yellow gold, Balls of Love ring with coral in 18k yellow gold and a Mini Love Balls ring with Chrysoprase in 18k yellow gold

From left to right, all Garnazelle: Topkapi ring with pink tourmalines in 18k yellow gold, Balls of Love ring with tiger’s eye quartz in 18k yellow gold, Tropical Flower ring in 18k yellow gold, Balls of Love ring with coral in 18k yellow gold and a Mini Love Balls ring with Chrysoprase in 18k yellow gold

Lydia Courteille necklace, earrings and cuff from the Sahara collection with opal, haüynites, topazolites, hessonites and yellow sapphires in 18k yellow gold

Lydia Courteille necklace, earrings and cuff from the Sahara collection with opal, haüynites, topazolites, hessonites and yellow sapphires in 18k yellow gold

Nigel O'Reilly Ad Lucem ring with a 11.19-carat blue topaz, rubies, sapphires and diamonds in 18k rose gold

Nigel O'Reilly Ad Lucem ring with a 11.19-carat blue topaz, rubies, sapphires and diamonds in 18k rose gold

Taking Flight: Fluttering Wing Motifs in Fine and High Jewellery

continue reading

Hero Talisman: My Bespoke Superwoman Ring by Sabine Roemer and Minehaus

Sabine has known me for many years; she has witnessed me grow and develop as a writer and a key opinion leader (KOL), so she felt that I deserve my own ring – an exquisite reminder of who I am

by Katerina Perez

Star of Singapore: Exploring the Incredible Legacy of B.P. de Silva 

The brand’s heritage traces back more than 150 years and it is now run by the fifth generation of the founding family. It is a real destination.

by Katerina Perez

Love Stories: Jewellers Share Their Most Romantic Commissions

For Valentine’s Day, I asked six designers what the most romantic commission they ever received

by Rachael Taylor

Jewel of the Month: Taking Flight with The Gift of Love Necklace by Graff 

Let’s examine this feat of jewellery artisanship and celebrate its status as our ‘Jewel of the Month’ for February 2025

by Sarah Jordan

Nature’s Folio: The Boucheron Untamed Nature High Jewellery Collection

Be prepared to feel transported to the French countryside, somewhere in the 19th century, armed with only a graphite pencil and the very earliest monochrome camera…

by Sarah Jordan

Ready for Love: Heart-Shaped Jewels for the Perfect Valentine’s Day

Find the perfect heart for your lover with Rachael Taylor’s guide to the latest designs, from chubby diamonds to gold embroidery and magical opals

by Rachael Taylor

Galentine Gifts: Jewels to Celebrate Female Friendships this Valentine’s Day

If you are searching for the perfect present to spoil the hero BFFs in your universe, start with this shopping guide by Rachael Taylor

by Rachael Taylor

Unique Proposals: Alternative Engagement Ring Designs for 2025

This year, it's all change, with some of the key alternative engagement ring trends for 2025 representing a very real evolution of this most classic of jewels

by Claire Roberts

Chain Reaction: Shells Reinvented with the Melanie Georgacopoulos Katina Collection

I spoke to Melanie to discover more about her latest, innovative offering…

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Jewel of the Month: Taking Flight with The Gift of Love Necklace by Graff

Let’s examine this feat of jewellery artisanship and celebrate its status as our ‘Jewel of the Month’ for February 2025

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.