Feminine Finesse: Women at the Bench Crafting Jewellery Masterpieces

I am sure all of you have heard incredible things about the power of the human touch. The same can be said for handcrafted jewellery – an artisan’s hands can breathe life into metal, transforming it into something precious that embodies beauty and charm. But what if that artisan is a female working at a bench instead of a male who we are more accustomed to seeing shaping metal and setting stones? Would there be any difference in the way they work or the challenges they face? This is precisely why Katerina tasked me with writing about the women who do not just design jewellery but actually make it by hand.

When thinking about modern female jewellers, many names come to mind. However, most of these artists envision beautiful designs and pass their blueprint along to in-house goldsmiths or third-party ateliers. As it turns out, only a small handful of master craftswomen are out there sitting at the bench, using their hands to sell pieces under their own name. Much like how the same recipe can vary in taste, touch, and feel when made by different chefs, handcrafted jewellery embodies the unique essence of its creator. So, it is fair to say that each woman featured here brings her own creativity and vision to the world of fine jewellery, incorporating distinctive design elements that reflect their individual styles. Let’s explore how their expertise and passion bring each creation to life in a way that is not just beautiful but also deeply personal and full of character.

Sabine Roemer

Let’s start with an award-winning jewellery designer, goldsmith, and silversmith, Sabine Roemer, based in London. She has over 25 years of experience and has collaborated with some of the world’s top jewellery, fashion, and couture houses from various parts of the world. Sabine believes that no other possession can connect with humans as profoundly as jewellery. When worn close to the skin or heart, jewellery truly touches us and becomes a part of us. “I always aim to touch people with my jewellery, evoking deep emotions, memories, stories, laughter, or connections,” she says. “I understand jewellery on a deep technical level. I always compare it to music: you can hear it when you have a composer who can play an instrument and tweak it themselves in the studio.”

Each of Sabine’s designs becomes a vessel of personal expression and connection, cherished deeply by both the maker and the wearer. She beautifully explains this connection: “I truly feel that my energy and love go into every piece I create and oversee. There’s an exchange on a deeper level, leaving a little piece of me in each creation. Sometimes, this means channelling someone else’s story and energy to capture the exact essence in a bespoke piece.”

Dale Hernsdorf

Similarly, Dale Hernsdorf, CEO and Owner of Hernsdorf, a Los Angeles-based fine jewellery line, believes that the humanistic side of jewels is always at the forefront, highlighting why jewellery has historically been and continues to be such a significant form of human expression. Her crafting process always begins with the stone, and judging by what she features on her Instagram, Dale gravitates more towards cabochon and sugar loaf rubellites, tanzanites, aquamarines, tourmalines, moonstones and others.

However, once you see Dale Hernsdorf’s jewellery, you will agree that gold plays an equally important role in her designs. To create bold and beautiful pieces, the jeweller hand-alloys and fabricates each element herself – the part of her work she cherishes the most. She tells me: “I develop a deep relationship with every jewel that comes off my bench. Handcrafting allows me to tweak the original design as I go, and a single millimetre can make a significant difference.”

Capucine Huguet

Capucine Huguet is the French designer and jeweller behind Capucine H, which you may have encountered in Paris or the GemGenève exhibition in Switzerland. Being a master goldsmith gives her a ‘superpower’: while some artisans prefer to start their design process on paper, she feels no need to create perfect drawings for her ideas because they are already clear in her mind. “I just need to sit down at my bench and start playing with my tools,” she says, adding that she can wholly trust her instincts. She continues: “I immediately know how to improve the shapes of my designs, what needs to be added, and what needs to be removed. Spending hours with a piece allows me to think of numerous ways to modify it, a perspective you only gain in the jewellery studio.”

The majority of her jewels are inspired by nature and help her start a dialogue about the need to preserve our planet. Capucine H rings, earrings, and pendants are often sculptural, embellished with gems and textured gold, which requires high concentration levels. She adds: “My crafting process is extremely meditative; I need to be completely focused and dedicated to what I am doing. This is what artists call the ‘flow’—nothing can stop you.”

Amelie Viaene

Amelie Viaene, a Parisian designer known for her bold and sculptural design, handcrafts each piece using the traditional techniques of French jewellery. She meticulously takes each piece through every stage of its fabrication, from concept on paper as a gouache drawing to making a wax model, followed by gold casting, stone setting and polishing. What’s interesting is the fact that Amelie always starts with a detailed framing of her ideas on paper. “From the sketch to the first volume studies, the idea of the jewel is refined, and the technical drawing can be traced,” she explains. “With the final stage of colouring, I give it life and represent it in the most realistic way. Computers have no place in my creative process.”

Amelie Viaene strives to create sculptures that blend shape and materials seamlessly. Finishing each piece on time requires careful planning and attention to detail. She adds: “As I often say, the luxury of time is one of the precious elements that form the identity of my jewellery.”

Loren Nicole

Based in LA, Loren N. Teetelli, the founder of Loren Nicole, creates 22k gold jewellery inspired by ancient cultures. Her remarkable journey began as an archaeological lab technician and continued as a conservator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. With a deep appreciation for ancient artefacts and ethnographic textiles, Loren’s unique perspective has significantly shaped her approach to jewellery design.

By delving into the jewellery, materials, and metalsmithing technologies of antiquity, Loren translates these age-old techniques into contemporary, wearable art. She tells me: “I always work in 22k yellow gold, which allows me to create unusual textures and raised patterns. This beautiful, soft colour is the same historical alloy found in ancient jewellery displayed in museums. My work involves hand-raising, where rounded forms are crafted from a flat sheet of gold. Many of the techniques I use, such as chain-making and granulation, have been practised for thousands of years.”

Alix Dumas

Alix Dumas, the visionary behind her eponymous French brand Maison Alix Dumas, graduated from a contemporary jewellery school in Paris and secured a coveted apprenticeship at a prestigious high-jewellery workshop, where she honed her skills. Three years later, she founded her brand, Maison Alix Dumas. Approaching her craft from a sculptor’s perspective, she believes that while the initial concept may spark the vision, it is the medium that truly shapes the idea into form.

Her inspiration for her jewellery arises from the myriad influences she absorbs when observing the world and allowing them to surface in a unique and highly personal form, translating her feelings and visions into materials. Alix says: “In my view, both the brain and the hand possess their own unique intelligence, and utilising both in a single project allows the concept to develop beyond its original form. The hand is guided not only by the material’s specific characteristics but also by the body’s artistic intuition and instinct for line and shape.”

Shachee Shah

Shachee Shah, a renowned Indian jewellery designer and founder of Shachee Fine Jewellery, is celebrated for her stunning micro-mosaic and gold lace creations. She has dedicated herself to cultivating a distinctive style that marries innovative techniques with exceptional craftsmanship. Under her eponymous label, she offers two distinctive lines: one featuring woven gold and the other showcasing intricately detailed micro-mosaics. The latter, while deeply grounded in Italian mosaic techniques, gracefully integrate Indian motifs and designs. Her collection exemplifies a seamless blend of these two cultures, resulting in jewellery that is both sophisticated and rich in tradition.

Shah explains: “My pieces are defined by their intricate, craft-intensive nature. I use a range of techniques to weave 18k gold into lace-like patterns, where precision and patience are crucial. The final result prioritises lightness and comfort, merging micro-engineering with artistry to create exquisite jewellery.”

Flavie Paris

Flavie Paris, Owner and Founder of FLAV Joaillerie Paris honed her craft under the tutelage of Vincent Delaunay at the renowned Maison Cartier. She has since created a flagship collection, Paris by Paris, which epitomises love and romance. This symbolic offering is crafted using traditional methods from Place Vendôme. Her dedication and passion for the art of jewellery have been recognised with prestigious accolades, including the title of Master Craftsman from the Chambre de Métiers et de l’Artisanat de Paris in 2015.

Flavie believes in creating pieces that tell the client’s story, crafting jewellery that embodies their memories and personal experiences: “Every piece I create is unique, and the time invested in each one becomes a part of my professional journey. I recall the emotions experienced during the creation process, forging a connection with the client.”

Whether you are a collector, an enthusiast, or simply someone who values fine craftsmanship, the world of these exceptional female jewellers offers a delightful glimpse into the artistry that emerges when creativity and skill converge at the jeweller’s bench. Their work reminds us that true luxury lies not only in the beauty of the final product but also in the heartfelt process that shapes it.