Baselword 2018: The most spectacular ‘hero’ pieces of the fair

April 20, 2018

By Katerina Perez

4 min read

Baselworld is one of the largest jewellery and watch exhibitions in the world, and for this reason brands often take the opportunity to showcase the very best jewellery which they have to offer buyers, clients, members of the press and jewellery aficionados.

There are many different ways to interpret the idea of what ‘best jewels’ could mean: some will immediately imagine gigantic and exceptional gemstones, many will conjure images of complex jewellery design with high quality craftsmanship, and others would think of innovation in techniques and jewellery materials. Personally, I take all of these into consideration when looking for my favourite jewellery of the exhibit.

href=”https://www.jacobandco.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Jacob & Co

There is one brand who can always be relied upon to deliver big, bold, colourful gemstones and diamonds: Jacob & Co. For this year’s Baselworld, Jacob Arabo served up a plethora of jewellery with statement gems, my favourite of which was the 100ct morganite and diamond drop earrings. With a refined and elegant approach to design allowing the gemstone to take centre stage, this is the definition of classic red carpet jewellery.

Jacob & Co. earrings with 100ct morganite and diamonds

Jacob & Co. earrings with 100ct morganite and diamonds

href=”http://www.shirleyzhang.cn/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Shirley Zhang

Conversely, Shirley Zhang’s ‘Eternal Flower’ necklace is a design based on the heartfelt and deep-rooted concept of the soul as a wildflower, persevering through difficulty and creating beauty from barren land. Pearls, enamel and 18 karat gold are combined to create a highly intricate flowerbed – resplendent with fluttering butterflies -which springs up around a diamond fence.

Shirley Zhang 'Eternal Flower' necklace with diamonds, pearls, enamel and 18 karat gold

Shirley Zhang 'Eternal Flower' necklace with diamonds, pearls, enamel and 18 karat gold

 Shirley Zhang 'Eternal Flower' necklace with diamonds, pearls, enamel and 18 karat gold

Shirley Zhang 'Eternal Flower' necklace with diamonds, pearls, enamel and 18 karat gold

href=”https://www.messika.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Messika

Messika’s ‘Once Upon a Time’ collection features a host of glittering diamond creations, but my favourite and undoubtedly the most show-stopping was the ‘The Eternal Soul’ necklace from ‘The Little Mermaid’ line. Valerie Messika juxtaposed 219.2ct of rigid, geometric emerald cut diamonds set into a fluid high jewellery masterpiece, whose draping appendages flow like the water upon which the necklace design was based. This plastron style necklace took more than 2000 hours of craftsmanship to complete, and was inspired by the form of a splayed mermaid’s tail.

Messika's design process story for the 'Once Upon a Time' collection

Messika's design process story for the 'Once Upon a Time' collection

 Messika ‘The Eternal Soul’ 219.2ct diamond necklace with 12.1ct diamond earrings and rings from ‘The Little Mermaid’ line

Messika ‘The Eternal Soul’ 219.2ct diamond necklace with 12.1ct diamond earrings and rings from ‘The Little Mermaid’ line

 Messika ‘The Eternal Soul’ 219.2ct diamond necklace with 12.1ct diamond earrings and rings from ‘The Little Mermaid’ line

Messika ‘The Eternal Soul’ 219.2ct diamond necklace with 12.1ct diamond earrings and rings from ‘The Little Mermaid’ line

href=”http://dawnjewellery.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Dawn

Dawn are an Asian brand who I was introduced to through visiting their stall at Baselworld last year. I was charmed with the brand’s approach to colour, and dedication to specialising in one sought-after jewellery material: jade. Dawn used a rainbow of highly intense jadeite colours in my favourite of their pieces – a necklace, bracelet and earring set featuring purple, orange and green jadeite. Within this design the brand celebrates a fusion of Eastern symbolism and laconic Western jewellery style.

Dawn earrings and cuff in green, orange and purple jadeite

Dawn earrings and cuff in green, orange and purple jadeite

 Dawn necklace in green, orange and purple jadeite

Dawn necklace in green, orange and purple jadeite

href=”http://www.palmierogioielli.com/?lang=en” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Palmiero

Palmiero are renowned for the high quality of their pavé jewellery designs, many of which take inspiration from the exceptional forms found in nature. Their swan brooch from the ‘Animals’ collection is a tribute to the eternal message of love and its power: the famous muse for Tchaikovsky’s ‘Swan Lake’. The swan has been crafted in colourless diamonds, black diamonds and yellow sapphires; producing a realistic representation of the bird within an ethereal form.

Palmiero Swan brooch from the 'Animals' collection with colourless and black diamonds and yellow sapphires

Palmiero Swan brooch from the 'Animals' collection with colourless and black diamonds and yellow sapphires

 Palmiero Swan brooch from the 'Animals' collection with colourless and black diamonds and yellow sapphires

Palmiero Swan brooch from the 'Animals' collection with colourless and black diamonds and yellow sapphires

 Palmiero Swan brooch design process

Palmiero Swan brooch design process

Regardless of Baselworld 2018 marking a shift in terms of a more modest selection of jewels than in previous years, the fair’s participants did not fail to present a selection of exciting ‘hero’ pieces that surprised many visitors, myself included.

Harry Winston: The jewelled race against time

continue reading

Essential Passion: The Artistic Pursuits of Mehragin Rahmati of Mergin Jewelry 

Jewellery can be thoughtful and insular, or it can be effusive and bold and full of character that makes it stand out from the crowd. I would put the colourful and charismatic creations of Mehragin Rahmati into the latter camp because of their attention-grabbing silhouettes, unusual structures, and confident mineral palettes.

by Katerina Perez

Maestro of Masterpieces: New High Jewels in the Picchiotti Classics Collection

Ahead of this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, Picchiotti has revealed some of the latest additions to its high jewellery repertoire, including new suites in the Picchiotti Classics collection.

by Sarah Jordan

Reasons to Shop: The Moments that Demand a Fresh Jewellery Purchase 

There's no rule that says you need a reason to buy a new piece of jewellery, but sometimes, a little encouragement makes the decision even more exciting. If you're looking for a playful excuse to book your next jewellery appointment, here are a few irresistible reasons to treat yourself.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Grecian Glamour: The Designers Preparing to Spotlight Greek Style at JCK Las Vegas

Recently, I was approached by the organisers of a special ‘Greek mission’ who are supporting 11 independent designers and brands as they seek to make their mark at JCK Las Vegas from June 6-9, 2025. Below, I would like to introduce you to each of the businesses participating in this incredible showcase of Greek design, ingenuity and craftsmanship.

by Katerina Perez

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.