Instinct for Innovation: The Story of Atelier Spitaleri

December 12, 2022

By Katerina Perez

8 min read

Over a career that spans nearly 20 years, jeweller Pino Spitaleri has personally handled some of the world’s most exceptional diamonds. His passion for developing new techniques and introducing meticulous levels of detail to the art of gem-setting led to the foundation of Atelier Spitaleri in 2014. Here, I’d like to share some of the highlights of my recent conversation with Pino, where we discuss Haute Horology, famous diamonds and a recent move to Dubai.

Imagine for a second being given responsibility for the 24.78 carat Graff Pink diamond or the 31.06 carat Wittelsbach-Graff diamond. These remarkable feats of nature can only be entrusted to the most highly skilled artisans, who’ve got a mastery of setting that goes beyond the norm and into a different echelon. Fortunately, Pino Spitaleri fits the bill. 

Katerina Perez wears a diamond-set pendant by Atelier Pino Spitaleri

Atelier Pino Spitaleri diamond pendant with a round brilliant-cut diamond centre and pear-shaped diamond accents

Atelier Pino Spitaleri diamond pendant

A closer look at the diamond-set details on a necklace by Atelier Pino Spitaleri

This London and Dubai-based jeweller has enjoyed a long career as a partner of world-leading brands. Think of him as the setter on speed dial for the likes of Graff Diamonds, who need absolute assurances. “Stone setting is definitely my first passion,” Spitaleri tells me. “I have set the most incredible stones on the planet. I have also been extremely lucky that a few major jewellery brands and stone owners have trusted me for many, many years. I travel the world every month to set incredible stones that require expertise. I can feel every single one of them by just touching them… I know exactly when I must stop putting pressure on them and when the stone needs a rest. It is very difficult to explain this feeling. It’s just magic.” 

Coloured gemstone and diamond cocktail rings by Atelier Pino Spitaleri

I was intrigued by this instinct, which is why I decided to sit down with Spitaleri and ask him some questions about his career. Here are the results of our conversation. You may also be interested to know that Pino and his team will host an intimate dinner on December 15th at the Arts Club in Dubai.

Katerina Perez wears the Atelier Pino Spitaleri Sun ring with a Mandarin garnet of more than 15 carats and diamonds

The Atelier Pino Spitaleri Sun ring from the Solar System collection with a Mandarin garnet centre stone

The Atelier Pino Spitaleri Sun ring from the Solar System collection features a lab-certified Mandarin garnet of more than 15 carats

A closer look at the Atelier Pino Spitaleri Sun ring from the Solar System collection

The Sun ring by Atelier Pino Spitaleri is the first piece from the Solar System collection

Katerina Perez: What influences your creativity?

Pino Spitaleri: Jewellery making techniques always fascinated me – using new technologies allows us to create more complicated details. Spitaleri pieces can be compared to a Swiss watch. We love to add what is referred to in watch language as “complications,” which bring a lot of fine details to pieces. 

Katerina Perez wears an Atelier Pino Spitaleri tiara in 18k white gold and diamonds, set with a step-cut pear-shaped pink tourmaline

KP: You have handled some of the world’s most exceptional stones, including the Graff Pink and the Wittelsbach-Graff diamond – what were these experiences like? 

   

PS: The first great feeling was when Raymond Graff selected me to be in charge of the setting of those two stones, I felt proud and blessed to handle stones with great royal history behind them. The Wittelsbach-Graff blue diamond was unforgettable. When you have a stone like that in your hand and you think about its journey, it is like being a part of the history of the stone. 

Katerina Perez wears an Atelier Pino Spitaleri ring with a yellow sapphire surrounded by diamonds

A side view of an Atelier Pino Spitaleri yellow sapphire and diamond cocktail ring

This Atelier Pino Spitaleri sapphire ring can be worn alone or with a diamond-set ring jacket

The two elements of this Atelier Pino Spitaleri sapphire ring allow for multi-wear options

An Atelier Pino Spitaleri yellow sapphire ring worn with its matching diamond-set ring jacket

The interlocking details on the Atelier Pino Spitaleri yellow sapphire ring when worn with its diamond-set ring jacket

KP: You have developed micro-setting techniques; can you tell me more about this innovation?

PS: Since I started in this industry, I have been in love with stones and watches. In the year 2000, I really pushed myself to create a method that would transform setting into a high manufacturing process by splitting the technique into multiple steps. This allowed for the metal to be extremely clean before the setting of a stone resulting in more intense shine. I was also the first person in the industry to set very big gems with the help of a microscope. 

Atelier Pino Spitaleri Royal Lilypad ring set with a 15 carat deep pink natural tourmaline and diamonds in 18k rose gold

KP: Why did you decide to establish your own atelier in London in 2014?

PS: While setting gemstones at Graff, other brands approached me with requests to put the same setting operation in place at their businesses. I felt London was missing an operation where a design could just be dropped off and a high-end piece could be manufactured from start to finish. I opened Atelier Spitaleri in 2014 and in the following month, the order books were full. Today, we are manufacturing over 2,000 high-end pieces for brands around the world, but none of this would be possible without my team. It is like going to a high-end restaurant where you see a brigade working to cook an amazing dish. My team are my family and the heroes of the company. 

Atelier Pino Spitaleri Moon ring with an oval-shaped spinel surrounded by diamonds

Atelier Pino Spitaleri Moon ring with an oval-shaped spinel surrounded by diamonds

Atelier Pino Spitaleri ring with a tourmaline centre stone surrounded by diamonds in 18k white gold

Atelier Pino Spitaleri ring with a talon claw-set blue tourmaline surrounded by diamonds in 18k white gold

KP: What inspired your move from London to Dubai and why do you think this is the ideal new home for your jewellery business?                                                                                           

PS: The idea came during the COVID-19 lockdown. I was in my house in Spain during that difficult time and I was in my living room facing the sea when I started to think about the future. I wanted to grow my business and it was a great time to develop some new ideas. I wanted to create a concept that will have the same impact as the business I created in London, but this time for the public. I wanted to create an experience for the client and share my passion for jewellery with them.

Atelier Pino Spitaleri Boom ring with a Zambian emerald and diamonds

KP: Now you have added an extra element to your business – selling beautiful jewellery to private clients in combination of showing them ‘where the magic happens’ – your atelier.

PS: Indeed, I am a jeweller and I want my clients to see what we do in the workshop, feel involved in the process. In my maison, you must pass through the atelier to see the showcases and ready-to-wear pieces. Also, a client gets to spend time with our Chief Designer Silvia Serravalle, who graduated from the prestigious Architecture and jewellery university of Florence and has over 15 years of experience in jewellery design.

Atelier Pino Spitaleri diamond and coloured gemstone cocktail rings

A coloured gemstone and diamond cocktail ring by Atelier Pino Spitaleri

A closer look at the pear-shaped diamond details on a gemstone cocktail ring by Atelier Pino Spitaleri

A distinctive setting on a gemstone and diamond cocktail ring by Atelier Pino Spitaleri

Fancy-cut diamond details on a cocktail ring by Atelier Pino Spitaleri

KP: Why Dubai?

Katerina Perez and Pino Spitaleri

When one can claim to be the jeweller of choice among other jewellers, it’s clear they are doing something right! It is wonderful to think that this level of expertise can now be accessed by private customers who want to see for themselves what this level of know-how can achieve. The future looks bright indeed for Atelier Spitaleri.

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