Nature’s Miracles: Capturing the Magic of Natural Pearls with Pearl Biography 

As a jewellery writer and editor, I have seen my fair share of mineral rarities. In fact, one of the most common questions I am asked by those outside of the luxury jewellery world is, 'What's the rarest gem you've ever seen?'. Although it's always tempting to say extra-large Paraiba tourmalines or deep red Argyle diamonds, I think it's important to bring natural pearls into the conversation. They're so often forgotten, and yet they have become undeniably and increasingly rare since the cultured pearl boom in the 1920s. This story deserves more investigation, which is why I spoke to Ahmed Mattar, the Founder of Bahraini brands Pearl Biography and Yka Pearls, to discover the allure of natural pearls and their unique place in Bahrain's culture. Let's dive in…

Have you heard the story of Queen Cleopatra dissolving a priceless natural pearl in vinegar to win a bet against Marc Anthony? It's these kinds of legendary tales that feature in the back catalogue of natural pearl stories, with appearances from Julius Ceasar, Roman historian Pliny the Elder and 13th-century explorer Marco Polo for good measure. Today, however, natural pearls are far less ubiquitous thanks in large part to the proliferation of the cultured pearl industry in the 20th century and, of course, the ever-present challenges and uncertainties associated with artisanal pearl diving. 

One area that is rebuffing this decline is the Persian Gulf, which has long been associated with a vibrant and historic natural pearl diving trade. The Kingdom of Bahrain, an archipelago that's home to approximately 1.5 million people, is the epicentre of modern natural pearls. I learned recently that the cultivation of 'artificial' pearls is banned in Bahrain, giving its natural pearl industry the breathing space it needs to thrive. Although it is rare to find a natural pearl in a wild oyster, it's not impossible. And so, a whole community of divers, traders, jewellers and shoppers has evolved to celebrate the 0.2% of the world's pearl supply that can be called natural (according to data provided by the Bahrain Institute for Pearls and Gemstones (DANAT)). 

Amongst this group of passionate natural pearl advocates is Ahmed Mattar of Pearl Biography, a brand that specialises in classically elegant jewels with natural pearls, rubies, emeralds, sapphire, turquoise and mother of pearl, set in traditional buttery 21k yellow gold. "Pearls have always been part of my family's heritage, as we started as pearl divers," he tells me. "Over time, I realised the potential to create a jewellery brand that highlights the beauty of natural Bahraini pearls. My vision was to merge traditional, unique designs with modern aesthetics, all centred around our precious natural pearls. This dream became a reality, and today, my brand reflects the cultural significance and artistry of Bahrain's pearl heritage."

It is worth noting here exactly why Bahrain is such a hotspot for pearls. It has all the conditions that encourage pearl production in wild oysters, such as optimal temperatures, shallow waters with high salinity, freshwater springs that merge with salt water, and low predation from marine animals. Ahmed explains: "The mix of saltwater and freshwater creates a rare environment for oysters, resulting in pearls with unmatched beauty, extraordinary colours, and an unparalleled lustre that make them one of the most valuable treasures in the world." 

All this is channelled into Pearl Biography, which seeks to tell the complete story of pearls – the culture, heritage and the immense effort behind their extraction – through fine jewellery. Many pieces are traditional and follow the codes we typically associate with brands of the Persian Gulf. However, there are modern touches too. Personally, I like seeing delicate and plentiful natural pearls used like diamond pavé to create illuminated surfaces in earrings and rings or as radiant haloes in gem-set necklaces.  

In addition to Pearl Biography, there's Yka Pearls – a separate brand that celebrates "The Everlasting Essence of Bahraini Pearls". Created more recently, Yka Pearls caters to a new generation of individuals who want all the kudos and luxury of natural pearls but set in more contemporary silhouettes and matching suites of jewels. The Marquise collection exemplifies this approach perfectly, with elegant lines of cascading marquise-cut and bezel-set diamonds flanked by pairs of natural pearls. The Fan collection is similarly feminine, featuring sunburst arrangements of pearls and diamonds in earrings, pendants and rings. While these collections have a more neutral palette, Yka Pearls doesn't shy away from coloured gemstones, especially emeralds, lapis lazuli, rubies and even one-of-a-kind carved tourmalines. These are best presented in some of the brand's more traditional 21k yellow gold pieces, such as the Mertasha and Hilal collections and the Jelada necklace with seven rows of Bahraini pearls connected through openwork golden motifs. 

The beauty here is more than surface deep. The whole point of both Pearl Biography and Yka Pearls is to inspire a love of something that nature produces sparingly, in specific conditions, and based on its own rules. "Pearls are nature's miracles," Ahmed says, "and each one reflects the environment it comes from, whether it's the unique waters of Bahrain or other regions." He continues: "Natural pearls are not just gemstones—they're a blend of heritage, rarity, and natural beauty. The more people understand the delicate and intricate conditions under which pearls grow, the more they will appreciate their value and charm."

When you are taking a closer look at some of the fine jewellery pieces included in this article, don't forget the facts. No two natural pearls are alike, and each offers its own sense of individuality and beauty to a creation. "Working with pearls is like working with history and nature, which has captivated me for years and continues to do so," Ahmed says. Imagine the challenge of constructing a single strand of matching pearls with similar size, shape and natural irregularities. Identical round pearls with the same colour, lustre and size are extremely rare, so creating a perfect strand can take years if not decades. Ahmed explains: "It requires meticulous selection and years of effort to achieve harmony in a single piece. The result, however, is a priceless and unparalleled creation that stands as a true testament to the artistry and patience involved in the process.

Perhaps next time you are asked about the rarest jewel in your collection or, indeed, the rarest specimen you've seen in person, you will spare a thought for the natural pearl. If the opportunity arises for research, there's plenty to discover about the value and beauty of this aquatic treasure, including the skills associated with pearl diving, sorting, trading and crafting finished pieces. Through jewellery, we get to view the beautiful results of a long and historic process. "Each piece is crafted to appeal to those with extraordinary taste and a love for uniqueness," Ahmed adds. "It's a continuous journey, and I will continue to create innovative pieces that capture the essence of pearls."