Proudly Indian: The Myriad Facets of Zoya from the House of TATA

From the moment I stepped inside the Zoya boutique in Mumbai, I knew I was entering a universe in which distinguished design and patented innovations are the order of the day. The name ‘Zoya’ is an amalgamation of words from Ancient Greek, Persian, Russian and Arabic origins, all of which mean ‘alive’. This is apt, because the brand is alive to refined craftsmanship and immersive luxury experiences, as well as the powerful journeys of women. When women traverse their own path and reconnect with themselves, that is when they start to feel most alive and invigorated. Zoya has been creating talismans to mark these journeys and to awaken, strengthen and celebrate the elemental feminine in women for the past 15 years. The resulting jewellery is striking, colourful and full of character. Let me take you behind the scenes of my visit and highlight some of the wonders I discovered…  

The world is such an open and accessible place. With a quick click on your smartphone, you can be transported (figuratively and literally) to far-flung destinations that are the exact opposite of your current surroundings. However, I think this can sometimes serve to mask the wonders we have on our own doorsteps. When I was first introduced to Zoya – a proudly Indian jewellery Maison with nine boutiques – it was wonderful to see how much the brand values its Indian roots and presents its high jewellery through a uniquely Indian lens. Rather than moulding its pieces to a Westernised view of luxury, the brand is fiercely proud of its home nation’s craftsmanship and translates this into contemporary collections for new generations.

Another thing that struck me about Zoya was its ‘warm luxury’ ethos. The atelier believes in “redefining the way fine jewellery is experienced through meaningful pieces of wearable art” and by focusing on a wholesome, welcoming, inclusive and authentic approach. This richly comforting ideal is evident in its jewels, too, which are centred on celebrating womanhood and connecting a woman to her true self. In fact, Zoya means ‘alive’, and its goal is to create that spark of mindfulness in every woman who wears its creations.

Zoya aims to authentically reconnect women with their deep feminine selves and revive their sense of self-expression. Every creation is imagined as a talisman that enables her to celebrate herself.

Stepping inside one of Zoya’s boutiques in Mumbai is a wonderful reminder of traditional Indian hospitality. I was made to feel like I could spend hours listening to the stories behind collections, trying on pieces and chatting about fancy-cut minerals over a cup of coffee, or two! Of course, Indian culture is entwined with jewellery in a way that few other nations can replicate – the two are instinctively and intuitively blended. However, what Zoya has been doing over the past 15 years is shifting the focus away from jewellery as an investment and more as a chance to indulge in design, artistry, self-expression and style. Its design team draw inspiration from a diverse set of references, incorporating Art Deco, Hollywood style, Greek mythological, floral and even culinary themes into pieces without sacrificing their Indian flair. What really stands out to me, though, are the brand’s design patents, especially its signature Zoya Bloom Cut, which required a year of development. This gemstone cut is inspired by the swirling movements of a blooming wildflower when it’s caught in the wind. Staring into the depths of a Bloom Cut (often in organically shaped, softly formed four-sided minerals) is a little bit like being swept away in a breeze, with facets drawing the eye in a gentle spiral towards the centre of the stone. This is best seen in the Alive collection that continues the theme of free-spirited wildflowers and combines strong colours in surprising harmonies, such as tsavorites and sapphires with deep golden citrine and acidic lemon quartz with lilac-hued amethyst.

Within the Alive collection, you’ll find a series of pieces that utilise Bloom Cut golden citrines to evoke the sunshine on a field of wildflowers. At the heart of the Dancing in the Wind necklace is a 14-carat citrine framed by diamonds that flow into rows of blue sapphires and green tsavorites. This same colour palette is used in the Sunshine and Rainbow bangle, dusted with champagne-coloured diamonds for dimension, and the Wildflower Heart ring, which unfurls like the petals of a springtime flower. There’s something quite hypnotic about the Wildflower Heart earrings, too, this time set with Bloom Cut Swiss blue topaz surrounded by petals of zingy pink sapphires and diamonds for a punchy combination of colours.

Another innovation that allows Zoya to stand out is exemplified by the Aeterna collection, which is inspired by the “formidable feminine energy that resides in the soul of the Zoya woman”. Here, we find another patented gemstone cut, specifically the transformation of fine amethysts into never-before-seen, three-dimensional icosahedron and dodecahedron forms. My favourite piece is the hero of the collection – the Eternal Secret of Life bangle – set with a half-moon shaped, custom-cut pink amethyst with an internal flower petal arrangement of facets, positioned asymmetrically with a marquise-shaped diamond in 18k rose gold. This is the ‘flower of life’ trapped inside a mineral and is said to represent the cosmic wonder of the universe, timelessness and sacredness. Elsewhere, the three-dimensional amethysts with that patented cut are especially notable in the Refractions of the Infinite earrings, in which dice-like forms of quartz dangle from rose gold huggies.

It was clear from the moment I arrived at Zoya that I simply couldn’t see everything in one visit! For example, I haven’t yet told you about the brand’s Samave collection, which uses clean lines in rose and white gold to interpret architectural elements from India’s ancient stepwells. Rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets are hyper-modern yet infused with the most wonderful storytelling and a sense of being grounded in history, heritage and time. My favourite is The Belonging ring with interlocking squares of baguette- and round-brilliant-cut diamonds that can be worn stacked for maximum impact. There’s also Her Becoming – a collection of white diamond jewellery that translates the geometry of ancient Ikat (a fabric dyeing technique) into wearable art. This marks a creative milestone for the Maison, largely because of the Cadillac, trapezoid and custom-cut baguette diamonds that have made these pieces such a challenge to create! In this offering, we can see classical Indian styles reimagined for a modern audience, coupled with detachable elements to enhance wearability. Examples include a layered necklace that transforms into a head ornament and chokers that slip easily onto the wrist as bracelets.

All of this is best seen in the Weave of Brilliance necklace – the hero piece of Her Becoming – featuring Ikat-inspired chevrons of natural diamonds leading the eye to two Asscher-cut diamonds of one carat each, complemented by baguettes, pears, and diamond droplets. The Luminous Lineage necklace, also from this collection, sparkles with 236 custom-cut baguette-cut diamonds and five marquise-cut diamonds set on a flexible band of gold. Both are quintessentially Zoya with their depth of storytelling, design richness, and beautiful use of fancy-cut and shaped stones.

As my trip into the heart of Zoya drew to a close, there was still time to view its My Embrace collection, which is (in my view at least) the perfect accompaniment to any woman’s daily wardrobe. It centres on the classic identity bracelet but with the symbolism of a hug, the feeling of being able to hug oneself and create that sense of warmth and love. That’s where the shape of the bracelet developed from, making it especially meaningful. Pieces showcase twisted strands of white, yellow and rose gold, topped with fancy-cut diamonds at the points in which these strands intersect. These are collectors’ items, no doubt, with the stacking and layering possibilities providing avenues for self-expression and heirloom gifting. I can imagine these in the jewellery boxes of astute jewellery fans worldwide, perhaps alongside pieces from the Cartier Love Bangle or the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collections.

Finally, Zoya’s Reborn collection ushers in a new era for the atelier, with the introduction of its first collection of solitaires with the innovative Eterna CutTM. This masterfully crafted star-shaped facet, transforms each piece into wearable art and a timeless treasure. Symbolising creation, rebirth, and vitality, the Reborn collection embraces the idea of shedding the unimportant and focusing on what truly matters—the purity and meaning of the solitaire itself. For Zoya, a solitaire is far more than a symbol—it is a personal treasure, a reflection of the Zoya woman’s journey. Like her, the unmatched brilliance of Zoya’s solitaires truly shine with each piece designed to capture her essence. Crafted with exceptional artistry, the Eterna cut Zoya solitaire radiates captivating fire and scintillation, reflecting her soul, a reminder of her inner brilliance.

What a privilege it was to spend time inside the Zoya universe and discover a brand with its own powerful identity. I was excited by all the pieces I encountered on this initial visit to Mumbai, but I have a feeling there is so much more to discover! Stay tuned to KaterinaPerez.com for more insights into Zoya over the coming weeks.