Back to Black: The Art of Monochrome in Jewellery Design
Take a look around you and, at first glance, parts of the world may appear black or white. But if you look carefully, it is rare to spot something that is completely monochrome. Nature abhors monotony, which is why the world is filled with colours of every shade and hue. Perhaps that is why black and white objects crafted by human hands seem to draw our attention like moths to a flame.
I can’t help but associate the black and white palette with certain, very specific things: historical cinematography, piano keys and the Buddhist Yin and Yang symbol. Each of these phenomena contains the notion of antitheses as if inviting us to solve this visual conundrum and find some sort of harmonious or blissful reward. However, it is far from easy to find a balance between these two shades, both in a literal and a figurative sense. Perhaps this is the wisdom and art of life. I want to share with you some examples of successful creative solutions to this recurring problem, which will show you that, aesthetically, anything is possible.
I put it to you that, even to those with barely any knowledge of the fashion industry, the design of a classic Chanel suit will still be familiar to them. The founder of the brand, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, strongly believed that women should look graceful and elegant without compromising on comfort. The fashion designer is known for having introduced elements of men’s clothing into her outfits – unifying both Yin and Yang – and she favoured the classic combination of black and white. Mademoiselle Chanel saw the world in monochrome for it was these elegant and simple opposites that dominated her collections. Later, this colour palette found traction in the jewels of Chanel and in turn became mainstream the world over, inspiring jewellers to see black and white with fresh eyes.
They discovered a new monochrome palette of gems. Black diamonds, enamels, varnishes, ebony and onyx, and colourless diamonds, pearls, and mother-of-pearl that embodied the purity of white. Let’s take a look at the results.
Nikos Koulis
Nikos Koulis
Akillis
Akillis
Etho Maria
Etho Maria
Vhernier
Vhernier
Roberto Coin
Roberto Coin
Piaget
Piaget
Boucheron
Boucheron
Picchiotti
Picchiotti
Stephen Webster
Stephen Webster
Tasaki
Tasaki
Boucheron
Boucheron
Cartier
Cartier
Cartier
Cartier
Harry Winston
Harry Winston
Nikos Koulis
Nikos Koulis
Buccellati
Buccellati
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet
Verdura
Verdura
Chanel
Chanel
Bvlgari
Bvlgari
Chanel
Chanel
De Beers
De Beers
Ortaea
Ortaea
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels
Picchiotti
Picchiotti
WORDS
Katerina Perez With more than 12 years’ experience in the jewellery sector, Katerina Perez’s expert knowledge spans everything from retail sales and management to content creation, including brand building, jewellery writing and styling. Born and raised in St Petersburg, Katerina’s favourite hobby as a child was playing with the treasures in her grandmother's jewellery box, inspiring a lifelong love of jewellery from a very early age. She spent five years in St Petersburg University of Culture and Arts studying not journalism but business studies and languages, and her writing skills have developed as her passion for her favourite subject – jewellery – has grown. This is why her writing comes straight from the heart rather than the pages of a book. Daughter of an entrepreneur mother, Katerina exchanged her retail management job for jewellery writing in 2013 and hasn’t looked back since.
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