Club
In Conversation at GemGenève: What Constitutes Exceptional Design?
In November 2022, I returned for the second GemGenève event of the year to host a panel discussion about the principles and requirements of exceptional design. It was a lively conversation, lasting over an hour, featuring some of the people I admire and respect most in the jewellery world. Now, I am pleased to share the session recording with you and highlight the top 10 most vital contributing factors to exceptional design. Do you agree with me? Let’s take a look…
In a creative field that is so subjective and emotional, pinpointing exactly what makes one design good and another exceptional is no easy task. At GemGenève in November, I hosted a panel discussion to debate this exact topic, featuring jewellery historian and author Vivienne Becker; practising artist, designer and Acting Senior Tutor of the Jewellery & Metal MA at the Royal College of Art, David Roux-Fouillet; Director of Palais Royale and Cartier specialist, Olivier Bachet, and Alix Dumas, the founder of her eponymous jewellery business, Maison Alix Dumas.
The panel discuss 'What Makes Exceptional Design?' at GemGenève in November 2022
You may remember that I also spoke at the May 2022 edition of GemGenève. This talk focused on the love and passion for jewellery that so many of us share while also touching on creativity, gemstone obsessions, instinct and emotion when purchasing jewels and much more. In this talk, six months later, we decided to shift the conversation to exceptional design. I opened the session with a surprisingly difficult question: What kind of jewellery do you like?
David Roux-Fouillet shares his thoughts on exceptional design at GemGenève in November 2022
Katerina Perez shares the stage with Cartier specialist Olivier Bachet at GemGenève in November 2022
Alix Dumas, the founder of Maison Alix Dumas, was part of the panel at GemGenève in November 2022
Can you pinpoint exactly the combination of factors that make you stop and do a double-take when shopping for jewellery? Could you write a list? It’s incredibly difficult to do so, which is why it was a great way to kick off this GemGenève session! Vivienne said she responds to a jewel that “captures its moment in time,” whether it hails from the Art Deco period or more contemporary decades. Alix Dumas pointed to a piece by JAR as an example of the jewels she adores. In the video, you will see a swirling array of orange gemstones designed to look like an orange peel, topped with blue flowers and three-dimensional pink stamens. David Roux-Fouillet discussed Boghossian, specifically how it can reinvent the classics, such as eternity rings, into something eye-catching and new. Coincidentally, I had also chosen some pieces by Boghossian to be displayed on a nearby digital screen!
We also discussed the importance of storytelling and emotion in adding depth to a design. One audience member raised an interesting point: we can fall in love with a particular jewel but not want to wear it ourselves. As an example, she suggested the Art Nouveau jewels of Lalique. This evolved into a discussion of how tastes evolve with time and what one deems exceptional and wearable may change over a decade. Similarly, Alix Dumas noted that designers also evolve and can undergo significant changes in their creative output over the years or decades.
Olivier Bachet and Alix Dumas shared their own interpretations of exceptional design on stage at GemGenève in November 2022
Katerina Perez was joined by Olivier Bachet, Alix Dumas and jewellery historian, author and journalist, Vivienne Becker, at GemGenève in November 2022
WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
Related Articles
Black Tie Affair: The Best Jewellery Looks of the BAFTAs Red Carpet 2025
Let's look at some of the best jewellery of the BAFTAs 2025…
In Conversation at GemGenève: What Constitutes Exceptional Design?
Can you pinpoint exactly the combination of factors that make you stop and do a double-take when shopping for jewellery? Could you write a list? It’s incredibly difficult to do so, which is why it was a great way to kick off this GemGenève session! Vivienne said she responds to a jewel that “captures its […]
Rule-Breakers: The Most Iconic British Jewellers of the 1960s
Bored of the reproductions of Victorian and Art Deco jewellery, John Donald entered London’s jewellery scene in the early 1960s looking to disrupt. Being confined by what he could afford at the time, Donald created pieces with gold rods, which were less expensive than gold bars. This decision would lead to his signature geometric motif. Having […]
Immortalising Memories: The Deeply Personal Creations of Kyan Jewelry
“Jewellery is an emotional carrier that connects you with your essence and your true self,” - Kyan Jewelry Founder Amal Sanad
Bezel Beauties: Get to Know Bezel-Set Diamond Jewellery
Let's take a closer look at the practical appeal of this great setting style…
Nature’s Miracles: Capturing the Magic of Natural Pearls with Pearl Biography
I spoke to Ahmed Mattar, the Founder of Bahraini brands Pearl Biography and Yka Pearls, to discover the allure of natural pearls and their unique place in Bahrain's culture
Love Stories: Jewellers Share Their Most Romantic Commissions
For Valentine’s Day, I asked six designers what the most romantic commission they ever received
Jewel of the Month: Taking Flight with The Gift of Love Necklace by Graff
Let’s examine this feat of jewellery artisanship and celebrate its status as our ‘Jewel of the Month’ for February 2025
Nature’s Folio: The Boucheron Untamed Nature High Jewellery Collection
Be prepared to feel transported to the French countryside, somewhere in the 19th century, armed with only a graphite pencil and the very earliest monochrome camera…
Galentine Gifts: Jewels to Celebrate Female Friendships this Valentine’s Day
If you are searching for the perfect present to spoil the hero BFFs in your universe, start with this shopping guide by Rachael Taylor
Ready for Love: Heart-Shaped Jewels for the Perfect Valentine’s Day
Find the perfect heart for your lover with Rachael Taylor’s guide to the latest designs, from chubby diamonds to gold embroidery and magical opals
Latest Stories
Club
Club
Club
Add articles and images to your favourites. Just
Jewel of the Month: Taking Flight with The Gift of Love Necklace by Graff
Let’s examine this feat of jewellery artisanship and celebrate its status as our ‘Jewel of the Month’ for February 2025
Jewels Katerina Perez Loves
Continue Reading
Club
Club
Club
Club
Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book
Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color
Brand Focus:Bvlgari
Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox
Style Guide
Club
Club
Club
Club
