In Conversation at GemGenève: What Constitutes Exceptional Design?

Can you pinpoint exactly the combination of factors that make you stop and do a double-take when shopping for jewellery? Could you write a list? It’s incredibly difficult to do so, which is why it was a great way to kick off this GemGenève session! Vivienne said she responds to a jewel that “captures its moment in time,” whether it hails from the Art Deco period or more contemporary decades. Alix Dumas pointed to a piece by JAR as an example of the jewels she adores. In the video, you will see a swirling array of orange gemstones designed to look like an orange peel, topped with blue flowers and three-dimensional pink stamens. David Roux-Fouillet discussed Boghossian, specifically how it can reinvent the classics, such as eternity rings, into something eye-catching and new. Coincidentally, I had also chosen some pieces by Boghossian to be displayed on a nearby digital screen!

We also discussed the importance of storytelling and emotion in adding depth to a design. One audience member raised an interesting point: we can fall in love with a particular jewel but not want to wear it ourselves. As an example, she suggested the Art Nouveau jewels of Lalique. This evolved into a discussion of how tastes evolve with time and what one deems exceptional and wearable may change over a decade. Similarly, Alix Dumas noted that designers also evolve and can undergo significant changes in their creative output over the years or decades.

Towards the end of the session, I projected a slide onto the digital screen with a series of 10 words and phrases I had chosen to answer the question, ‘What makes exceptional design?’. I’d like to share them here to see if you agree with me…

· The inspiration and story behind a piece

· Its aesthetic style

· The volume of a creation

· Its sense of proportions and balance

· The materials used and how they work together

· Colour combinations and contrasting elements

· A subtle adherence to the golden ratio

· Ergonomic shapes that are comfortable to wear

· Unusual, innovative or inspiring techniques of craftsmanship

· The pristine finishing of a jewel

Does it get any better than diving deeper into a jewellery topic surrounded by like-minded jewellery lovers worldwide? I don’t think so! I’d like to thank GemGenève for having me not once but twice in a single year and for being the platform to host such lively discussions. If you want to join the fun, the next GemGenève takes place at Palexpo in Geneva, Switzerland, from May 11-13, 2023. I hope to see you there!