The magic of creativity takes many different forms, including jewellery and watches, which is why celebrating music and dance seems like a natural choice for the Paris-based Maison Chaumet. Its fabled headquarters at 12 Place Vendôme occupy the same grand salons where the Romantic composer Frédéric Chopin spent his last days composing an unfinished masterpiece, the Mazurka in F minor, inspired by Polish folk dance. Famous ballerinas such as Anna Pavlova and Olga Picasso also visited the atelier. Now, in celebration of this time-honoured link to artistry, Chaumet's expert jewellers, setters, polishers, and gem cutters have orchestrated a virtuoso performance of their own.
Chaumet's En Scène collection brings dance and music to life through a symphony of pear-shaped diamonds, oval-cut sapphires, and round-cut rubies. "Each thematic collection pays tribute to the Maison's style in all its variety," says Charles Leung, Chaumet's CEO. So, as the curtain rises, let's dive into those three acts: Setting the Tempo, Leading the Dance, and As If by Magic.
Emerald and Tourmaline Ensembles
The Partition parure from the Setting the Tempo chapter opens the show, set with three fil couteau emerald-cut emeralds, all from a single mine in Colombia. The stitched scoring lines are interlaced with emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds to create this visual masterpiece, which is complemented by matching earrings and a ring presenting a deep 10.73-carat emerald. Elsewhere, the Tango secret watch is a tease in tourmaline and a prime example of the brand's dedication to blending high jewellery with horological mastery. Discreetly masquerading as a bracelet, the watch, set in white gold with round Paraiba-type tourmalines and brilliant-cut diamonds on a black satin strap, harks back to an era when it was deemed impolite for a lady to openly check the time in the presence of a man. Thankfully, society has evolved since then!
Diamond Duet
Moving on to the next movement in the sonata, we are introduced to the Harmony parure, a three-piece set reflecting the virtuosity of grand musical compositions. "Chaumet diamonds combine excellence with emotion, giving solitaires an extraordinary sparkle," the Maison explains. The Melody necklace stands out as the showstopper, and much like the final notes in a symphony rising to a stupendous climax, the three diamonds are set together like that triplicate fff symbol in musical notation for 'fortississimo'. The diamonds are D-colour and internally flawless, making them exceptionally rare in the natural diamond world.
The Voltige parure from the As If by Magic chapter is a spectacular display of Chaumet's mastery in creating optical illusions with precious stones. The Voltige transformable necklace is set with an eye-catching 10.18-carat oval-cut diamond, accompanied by two emerald-cut diamonds and brilliant-cut diamond rows that can transform from three to one. "With Chaumet en Scène, the Maison offers new interpretations of the twist, the tendril, and the volute," Leung observes, adding that this technique is becoming a "Chaumet signature rooted in heritage pieces and can also be found in emblematic collections such as Maharani, Torsade de Chaumet, and Liens Inséparables". He continues: "In the process, we're also reconnecting with a more Art Deco style, which is highly present in the Maison's archives." The Voltige Earrings are equally adaptable, designed to be worn as drops or studs that can be positioned horizontally or vertically on the ear. Let's not forget the star of the show, the Voltige tiara. Fit for a queen, the tiara is set with a 3.21-carat oval-cut diamond and features five diamond rays that appear to float on the hair, creating an ethereal and weightless effect.
Swinging Sapphires
In the "Leading the Dance" chapter, the Ballet parure beautifully captures the movement of a troupe performing Swan Lake with ripples of white gold studded with ocean-blue sapphires. The set includes a spiral-structured necklace with three cushion-cut sapphires, weighing 8.03, 5.79, and 5.77-carats, complemented by round sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds. This design mimics the fluid, graceful movements of ballet dancers. The toi-et-moi ring features a 4.48-carat cushion-cut sapphire is paired with a D-coloured 3.16-carat diamond. The double half-moon earrings are asymmetrically set with a 5.08-carat cushion-cut sapphire and a 3.76-carat diamond with further round sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, reflecting the refined and synchronised movements in ballet. The extraordinary craftsmanship, including the dégradé pavé work on the sapphires, amplifies the sense of rhythm and fluidity, much like the steps of a ballet dancer.
Another highlight of the Leading the Dance chapter is the Swing parure, a two-piece set brought to life with purple-pink sapphires and onyx set in white gold, resembling the black and white keys on a keyboard. The Swing bracelet is set with two cushion-cut 5.86 and 3.40-carat purplish-pink sapphires, and one 3.37-carat pink sapphire from Madagascar.
A Ruby Reverie
The As If by Magic chapter of Chaumet's en Scène collection casts a spell with its Illusion parure, a mesmerising display of deep Mozambique rubies and geometric diamond designs. The Illusion Necklace features five vivacious oval-cut rubies from Mozambique, weighing 4.18, 3.82, 3.59, 2.03, and 2.01-carats, set against a backdrop of shimmering diamonds, including a 1.51-carat oval-cut diamond. These stones, known for their vibrant red hue, are arranged in a way that ensures the light is being captured from all angles, giving it a real wow factor. The Illusion ring continues the theme with three cushion-cut rubies weighing 4.79, 1.27, and 1.15 carats, framed by brilliant-cut diamonds. The ring's geometric design expertly plays with light and shadow.
Pearl Prestige
Trompe-l'œil, derived from the French term meaning "to trick the eye", is the name of the next parure, and it perfectly sums up a mesmerising optical effect. The setting involves arranging several diamonds closely together in a specific pattern, such as a pear shape, to make them appear as one unified gemstone. Crafted in white gold, the necklace is set with 17 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 11.59 carats and round pearls hand-picked from the Sea of Cortes in the Gulf of California. "Beauty is a response to provocation, to intrusion," observes Julia Cameron in her book The Artist's Way. "The pearl's beauty is made as a result of insult." That shimmering beauty has always been a source of delight. Indeed, it led to the coining of a new word, pearlescent, to describe any object that reminds us of a pearl's unique glow. The Hollywood actress Grace Kelly famously said: "The pearl is the queen of gems and the gem of queens." The way they are grown is like a fairy tale and exactly as the name of the chapter suggests - As if by Magic.
As the final curtain falls on Chaumet en Scène, it becomes clear that this collection is not just an exhibition of beautiful jewellery and exquisite timepieces but a masterful performance that captures the Maison's creative legacy. Take a bow, Chaumet, still in the spotlight after 245 years of crafting some of the world's most spectacular creations.
