Vicenza Calling: Carrera y Carrera to Present New Collections at Vicenzaoro

Renowned Spanish jeweller Carrera y Carrera is making its presence known on the international stage in 2023 with appearances in Germany, Hong Kong, the United States and Singapore. Now, it is preparing to showcase its newest collections at the Italian destination event, Vicenzaoro, from 8-12 September, including some intricate golden pendants and cherubic motifs that I am pleased to be able to share with you here. Let’s dive into the ideas and inspirations behind this 138-year-old brand’s latest creations.

Before I take you on a tour of what’s new, let’s revisit the past for a moment. Carrera y Carrera was founded in 1885, and it’s been fuelled by an artistic passion for fine jewellery ever since. The Madrid-based brand is known for its opulent and decorative style, filled with elaborate golden motifs, dynamic shapes and romantic, feminine jewels with a definite Spanish flavour… even if this is hard to define! I have long been a fan of the brand, so the news of its decision to exhibit at Vicenzaoro in September 2023 captured my attention. I soon learned that it is preparing to showcase new collections at the Italian event, including Origen, My Angel, New Shanghai and Infinito, which I will tell you more about below, in addition to its popular lines like Fire Circle, Bamboo, Butterfly Dance and Bonadea.

I have always admired the ethos of Carrera y Carrera, which is all about protecting and preserving the age-old process of craftsmanship, from design to completed jewel. It’s not afraid to be artistic and experimental, drawing inspiration from architecture, art, mythology, its own Spanish heritage and far-flung locations (the New Shanghai collection is a perfect example). One must credit creative director Daniel Calvo, who is purposefully recovering the true DNA of the house and rediscovering all the minute elements of artistry and technique that make it special. I am told he is inspired by literature, ancient civilisations and nature, which you can certainly see in this tempting crop of new collections!

He is also continuing the Carrera y Carrera tradition of using a matte-gloss finish on pieces (a trademark of the brand, for sure), which is described as a “secret jealously guarded by its master jewellery artisans”. The benefit of this technique is the tonal and textural contrasts it creates, especially in detailed sculptural pieces with three-dimensional motifs, like dragons, cherubs and so on. When you want details to pop, this is the solution.

Let’s start with the New Shanghai collection – a new offering that immediately stood out to me for its New Shanghai Maxi Pavé pendant in 18k yellow and white gold and diamonds. Of course, this description doesn’t do justice to the shape of the piece, which takes the form of a fearsome dragon symbolic of spiritual power, wisdom and good fortune. This is actually an iconic Carrera y Carrera pendant style that has been updated to offer a greater sense of fluidity and movement for the new season. It’s also bursting with ornamental details that exemplify the design codes of the house… just look at the incredible matte scales juxtaposed against the glossy gold talon claws.

The rest of the New Shanghai collection is just as arresting, including earrings, rings and bracelets, and 18k rose and white gold variations. The bracelet is particularly special because of the intricate goldsmithing on display. Each individual scale on the dragon’s body, which wraps around the wrist, appears like it is hand-applied on a flexible framework that adds to the comfort and wearability of the piece. It is available in two versions, a simpler and more luxurious option with sparkling diamonds.