Bespoke Christmas: Why a Custom Jewellery Commission is the Ultimate Gift

November 12, 2021

By Katerina Perez

10 min read

The festive season and bespoke commissioned jewellery go hand-in-hand. After all, what says ‘I love you’ better than a jewel made specially to suit his or her exact tastes? To celebrate the bespoke process for the holidays, I asked a group of experienced jewellers to share what they love about custom-made creations. They told me stories about making unique pieces from start to finish, as well as the emotions and memories their clients share with them on the journey. Jewellery may not be therapy, but it is certainly a window onto a life well-lived.

Tis the season for gifting and, for those with a specific vision in mind, the best option is often to commission a bespoke piece from a jeweller whose signature style aligns with your own (or your loved one’s). The process of creating a jewel from imagination to finished product is different for each jeweller; it requires skill, patience and knowledge of your craft to take the sketches and ideas of a client and transform them into something wearable, adored and on budget. The six designer brands included below each have their own methods and the results are beautiful. If you are determined to see something unique blossom this festive season, may I suggest you reach out to them fast.

The Calla Lily Jade Spring Reeds brooch in the design stages, alongside the bespoke client’s inherited jade bracelet and older rings that were being remodelled. This new piece is set with jade, marquise-cut tsavorites, baguette- and rose-cut diamonds in 18k white gold

The Calla Lily Jade Spring Reeds brooch in the design stages, alongside the bespoke client’s inherited jade bracelet and older rings that were being remodelled. This new piece is set with jade, marquise-cut tsavorites, baguette- and rose-cut diamonds in 18k white gold

Nigel O’Reilly

Based in the west of Ireland, Nigel O’Reilly started his career as an engineer before turning to the world of fine jewellery design. In 2009, he created his own studio to blend ancient and modern techniques in his own inimitable style, complete with vibrant and voracious quantities of coloured gemstones. His recognisable gold latticework is a signature of the brand, as are generous volumes and undulating shapes. Customers who enjoy these calling cards are those who return time and time again for bespoke pieces. He explains: “I find great satisfaction in the union between the piece and the person who wears it. This balances at a point of tension between innovative technology and nature’s own creation. I believe when you are gifted something as rare as a gemstone it is your duty to realise its beauty with your client.”

Nigel O’Reilly Blue Rose ring with a 0.50 carat pear-shaped diamond set in 18k rose gold with tsavorite garnets, blue sapphires and rubies

Nigel O’Reilly Blue Rose ring with a 0.50 carat pear-shaped diamond set in 18k rose gold with tsavorite garnets, blue sapphires and rubies

 Nigel O'Reilly crafting a Rose ring with petals of pavé-set coloured gemstones

Nigel O'Reilly crafting a Rose ring with petals of pavé-set coloured gemstones

 Nigel O'Reilly crafting a bespoke sapphire engagement ring with diamond-set shoulders

Nigel O'Reilly crafting a bespoke sapphire engagement ring with diamond-set shoulders

 Ireland-based jewellery designer and bespoke jeweller Nigel O’Reilly in the workshop

Ireland-based jewellery designer and bespoke jeweller Nigel O’Reilly in the workshop

 The Nigel O'Reilly jewellery-making studio space in the west of Ireland

The Nigel O'Reilly jewellery-making studio space in the west of Ireland

 The consultation space where Nigel O'Reilly can discuss bespoke jewellery commissions with his private clients

The consultation space where Nigel O'Reilly can discuss bespoke jewellery commissions with his private clients

 Nigel O’Reilly Fuchsia Pearl earrings in 18k white gold with rubies and golden South Sea pearls

Nigel O’Reilly Fuchsia Pearl earrings in 18k white gold with rubies and golden South Sea pearls

 Nigel O’Reilly Opicie Scapolite ring with a 5.9ct trillion-cut scapolite set in 18k rose gold, alongside blue and pink sapphires, rubies and diamonds

Nigel O’Reilly Opicie Scapolite ring with a 5.9ct trillion-cut scapolite set in 18k rose gold, alongside blue and pink sapphires, rubies and diamonds

 Nigel O’Reilly Sarabarde Garnet ring with a 4.83ct cushion-cut umbalite garnet set in 18k rose gold with honeycomb shoulders and undercarriage featuring 222 rubies, pink sapphires and yellow diamonds

Nigel O’Reilly Sarabarde Garnet ring with a 4.83ct cushion-cut umbalite garnet set in 18k rose gold with honeycomb shoulders and undercarriage featuring 222 rubies, pink sapphires and yellow diamonds

 Nigel O’Reilly Zephyrus Aquamarine ring with a 5.9ct cushion-cut aquamarine set in 18k rose gold with pink sapphires, blue and white diamonds with latticed shoulders

Nigel O’Reilly Zephyrus Aquamarine ring with a 5.9ct cushion-cut aquamarine set in 18k rose gold with pink sapphires, blue and white diamonds with latticed shoulders

Nuun Jewels

Saudi Arabian-born designer Nourah Al Faisal relies on her intuition and the ‘energies’ of gemstones to build her collections at Nuun Jewels. When it comes to bespoke pieces, she must combine these energies with the spirit of her clients to find the perfect blend of personality, style and materials. Certainly, no easy task! She says: “When a piece of jewellery is commissioned it’s the beginning of an intimate conversation between the designer and the client, memories of personal events and hopes are shared and, from this dialogue, a jewel is created that captures a moment in time unique to that individual at that particular point in their lifetime. It creates a bond between both the designer and the client, and for me it is the most beautiful thing about what I do.”

Nuun Jewels pear-cut diamond ring in 18k gold

Nuun Jewels pear-cut diamond ring in 18k gold

 Nuun Jewels Pear rings in 18k yellow gold with a 9.03ct pear-shaped diamond in each, which are designed to be worn alone or together

Nuun Jewels Pear rings in 18k yellow gold with a 9.03ct pear-shaped diamond in each, which are designed to be worn alone or together

 Nuun Jewels pear-cut diamond ring in 18k gold

Nuun Jewels pear-cut diamond ring in 18k gold

 Two pear-cut diamond and 18k yellow gold rings by Nuun Jewels fit perfectly together like two puzzle pieces

Two pear-cut diamond and 18k yellow gold rings by Nuun Jewels fit perfectly together like two puzzle pieces

 The process of designing the Navette ring by Nuun Jewels

The process of designing the Navette ring by Nuun Jewels

 Nuun Jewels Navette ring in yellow gold with a 3.10ct marquise-shaped diamond and red spinels

Nuun Jewels Navette ring in yellow gold with a 3.10ct marquise-shaped diamond and red spinels

Calla Lily

Led by Emily Tan from Singapore, Calla Lily is a fine jewellery brand that infuses all her personal experiences of bespoke shoemaking, costume jewellery, fashion and design gleaned in London, Milan and New York. Hers are classical, feminine and whimsical designs that utilise a colourful palette of gemstones in unusual and unexpected ways. As she says, “every handcrafted piece starts with a conversation” and “no idea is too outlandish, no detail too insignificant, and no occasion too small to mark”. Emily continues: “People’s ideas, people’s stories, people’s experiences, they all give us inspiration. What we’re looking for is your heart’s desire. A custom-made jewellery piece allows you to tell a personal story, whether it be a memorable event, special relationship, or milestone in your life, you can express this through a co-created piece with our designers.”

Calla Lily bespoke Constellations turquoise necklace with a detachable aquamarine and Paraiba tourmaline brooch in 18k white gold, set with sapphires, moonstones, opals and diamonds

Calla Lily bespoke Constellations turquoise necklace with a detachable aquamarine and Paraiba tourmaline brooch in 18k white gold, set with sapphires, moonstones, opals and diamonds

 Calla Lily bespoke Constellation brooch in 18k white and yellow gold with portrait square-cut aquamarines of 17.68 carats, Paraiba tourmalines, sapphires, indigo tourmalines, moonstones, opals and diamonds

Calla Lily bespoke Constellation brooch in 18k white and yellow gold with portrait square-cut aquamarines of 17.68 carats, Paraiba tourmalines, sapphires, indigo tourmalines, moonstones, opals and diamonds

 Calla Lily Founder, Emily Tan, designing the Constellation necklace with a detachable brooch inspired by the customer's turquoise beads

Calla Lily Founder, Emily Tan, designing the Constellation necklace with a detachable brooch inspired by the customer's turquoise beads

 Calla Lily Founder, Emily Tan, drew inspiration from her customer's turquoise beads when selecting aquamarines for this bespoke piece

Calla Lily Founder, Emily Tan, drew inspiration from her customer's turquoise beads when selecting aquamarines for this bespoke piece

 The ideal combination of turquoise and aquamarines for a bespoke creation by Calla Lily

The ideal combination of turquoise and aquamarines for a bespoke creation by Calla Lily

 Calla Lily Wild Flower Mahenge spinel ring with a 2.83 carat cushion-cut spinel, round brilliant, rose-, pear- and marquise-cut diamonds

Calla Lily Wild Flower Mahenge spinel ring with a 2.83 carat cushion-cut spinel, round brilliant, rose-, pear- and marquise-cut diamonds

 The Calla Lily Wild Flower Mahenge spinel ring in the early stages of the bespoke design process

The Calla Lily Wild Flower Mahenge spinel ring in the early stages of the bespoke design process

Elizabeth Gage

Just like discovering treasure, Elizabeth Gage has been creating jewellery for 50 years in her own gloriously golden style. She combines different elements in her work, chosen for their individual beauty; exquisite stones, ancient bronzes, beautiful carvings, baroque pearls, anything where the shape and colour inspire her. Should you approach Elizabeth for a bespoke commission, you will encounter a team of goldsmiths, setters and enamellers ready to bring your vision to life. She tells me: “We dream of a jewel that is our own, one that will be unique. It is so much fun to sit down with a client and to find out what they really want, and to put it into a piece of jewellery that will be with them forever is very special.”

Elizabeth Gage Templar Band ring with pale tangerine enamel, alongside a diamond-set Templar Band and an aquamarine and diamond Tapered Templar ring

Elizabeth Gage Templar Band ring with pale tangerine enamel, alongside a diamond-set Templar Band and an aquamarine and diamond Tapered Templar ring

  Elizabeth Gage Amethyst Agincourt with a 2.56 carat amethyst, triangular carved gold sections and a foxtail chain set in 18k yellow gold

Elizabeth Gage Amethyst Agincourt with a 2.56 carat amethyst, triangular carved gold sections and a foxtail chain set in 18k yellow gold

 Elizabeth Gage Templar rings including pieces set with coloured gemstones and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Elizabeth Gage Templar rings including pieces set with coloured gemstones and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

 Elizabeth Gage 18k yellow gold Shiraz pin set with an oval cabochon aquamarine intaglio engraved with a starfish design, alongside marquise-cut diamonds

Elizabeth Gage 18k yellow gold Shiraz pin set with an oval cabochon aquamarine intaglio engraved with a starfish design, alongside marquise-cut diamonds

 Designing the Shiraz pink with an aquamarine intaglio and diamonds by Elizabeth Gage

Designing the Shiraz pink with an aquamarine intaglio and diamonds by Elizabeth Gage

Brummé Design

Christina Brummet pulls from art, literature and architecture for her jewels, which are presented to the world under the Brummé name. Her bespoke pieces reflect the intellectual background of her clients – their passions, interests and obsessions – but also suit those who wish to create their own little ‘stir’ with jewellery that’s non-conformist and striking. She says: ““From the beginning, I have had a preference for special gemstones. Finding them is often as difficult as searching for truffles. This can be a special mine, an unusual deposit or even the fact that’s an unheated gemstone. Such unique beauties literally demand to be set in scene in a bespoke jewellery piece.”

Brummé La Rete ring with a Imperial topaz centre stone

Brummé La Rete ring with a Imperial topaz centre stone

The custom design of the Brummé La Rete ring was inspired by a children's toy

The custom design of the Brummé La Rete ring was inspired by a children's toy

A closer look at the details of the La Rete ring by Brummé Design

A closer look at the details of the La Rete ring by Brummé Design

The process of designing the Brummé La Rete ringbegan with wax and 3D printed models

The process of designing the Brummé La Rete ringbegan with wax and 3D printed models

The Imperial topaz at the centre of the Brummé La Rete ring is pictured in the book "Secrets of the Gem Trade" by Richard Wise and was recur by master lapidarist, John Dyer

The Imperial topaz at the centre of the Brummé La Rete ring is pictured in the book "Secrets of the Gem Trade" by Richard Wise and was recur by master lapidarist, John Dyer

Hannah Martin

Those with a rebellious streak need look no further than London-based designer, Hannah Martin, whose brand is wrapped up in England’s “counter-revolution” of the 1980s and 1990s. Her pieces evoke the “atmosphere in the room of live music venues,” which is a sentiment I love, as well as “feelings of elation, excitement, pleasure, restraint, awe and revelation,” which are all things we hope to gain from bespoke jewellery too! “Bespoke is so utterly personal, it has to reflect the person that will wear it – it has to be a part of them, even before they put it on,” Hannah explains. “A bespoke piece is kind of the ultimate storytelling – with a real-life muse sitting right in front of me. It is honestly such a thrill every time.”

Three hand-painted sketches for a bespoke customer to choose from by Hannah Martin

Three hand-painted sketches for a bespoke customer to choose from by Hannah Martin

 A completed bespoke necklace by Hannah Martin alongside its original design sketch

A completed bespoke necklace by Hannah Martin alongside its original design sketch

 A bespoke pearl creation by London-based jeweller, Hannah Martin

A bespoke pearl creation by London-based jeweller, Hannah Martin

 A closer look at the details of a bespoke jewellery piece by Hannah Martin

A closer look at the details of a bespoke jewellery piece by Hannah Martin

 Hannah Martin is inspired by the atmosphere of live music venues for her jewellery

Hannah Martin is inspired by the atmosphere of live music venues for her jewellery

 Hannah Martin designs all aspects of her bespoke jewels including clasp components

Hannah Martin designs all aspects of her bespoke jewels including clasp components

 Hand-drawn pearls versus real-life pearls in a bespoke Hannah Martin jewellery piece

Hand-drawn pearls versus real-life pearls in a bespoke Hannah Martin jewellery piece

We are heading towards Christmas and the holiday season right now, but bespoke jewellery has no restrictions! Your calendar can be bursting with jewelled uniqueness whether it’s Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, summer, autumn, blue-skied or grey. We can enjoy the limitless beauty of jewellery all year round.

Matte Magic: Vhernier Turns to Black Titanium

continue reading

Beauty of Beginnings: Exploring the Potential of Paper with Katerina Perez

If you are optimistic by nature, you may look at a blank sheet of paper and see limitless opportunities for creativity. Recently, my friend and visual artist Ksenia Usacheva approached me about a new ‘blank canvas’ inspired editorial project, incorporating reams of white paper, brushstrokes of colourful paint, and beautiful high jewellery.

by Ksenia Usacheva

Haute Couture 2025: Stepping Inside ‘Caroline’s Universe’ with the Chopard Red Carpet Collection

Let's take a closer look at some of Caroline Scheufele's latest colourful adornments, including our 10 favourite pieces.

by Sarah Jordan

Beauty Shapes Tomorrow: Nouvel Héritage Unveils High Jewels for 10th Anniversary

For French brand Nouvel Héritage, the time has come to unveil its debut suite of five high jewellery creations, each one an ode to its iconic Mood and Latch collections, as well as the soon-to-be-launched Try Me line.

by Sarah Jordan

Incomparable Artistry: The Legendary Story of Beverly Hills Jewellery Designer Martin Katz 

This formidable Californian jeweller has spent decades sourcing the finest coloured gemstones, creating one-of-a-kind jewels, and dressing famous celebrities. Let me tell you more about an incomparable jewellery tour de force…

by Sarah Jordan

Prophecy and Poetry: The Story Behind My Bespoke Pendant by El’eeté Jewellery

Sometimes universal forces align to put the right person in your path at the perfect time. That was absolutely the case when one of my Instagram followers, Elvira Iurova, the Founder of El’eeté Jewellery, contacted me to introduce her unique bespoke jewellery concept.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: The Most Impressive Flower High Jewels that Bloomed in Paris

Floral jewels have long been a hallmark of high jewellery, but at this year’s Haute Couture presentations in Paris, designers approached the motif with renewed focus and technical ambition. Here, we spotlight the standout floral creations from the 2025 shows.

by Joshua Hendren

Haute Couture 2025: Celebrating 20 Years with the Messika Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery Collection 

Let’s take a closer look at the collection, including some of its neckwear highlights, and discover its romantic inspirations…

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: Exploring the Debut High Jewellery Collection of Sahag Arslanian

This July’s Haute Couture Week in Paris was marked with the exciting launch of a new high jewellery brand that bears the name of its founder. Third-generation diamantaire Sahag Arslanian presented his inaugural series of high jewels, drawing inspiration from the power of the sun and the cosmic world.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: Boucheron Explores Shades of Grey with the Impermanence High Jewellery Collection 

With its Carte Blanche High Jewellery collections, Boucheron's Creative Director Claire Choisne has the power to explore whatever fantastical avenue she pleases, which in 2025 centres on flowers and the natural world.

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: The Unconventional Lines of the Vhernier Ardis High Jewellery Collection 

Let's take a closer look at the pieces that launched at Paris Haute Couture week, including the sculptural necklaces we simply couldn't leave without photographing.

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: The 70s Depths of the Piaget Shapes of Extraleganza High Jewellery Collection

Through the Piaget Society, a circle of artists, collectors and freethinkers, the Maison helped shape the cultural zeitgeist of the 1970s.

by Claire Roberts

Haute Couture 2025: The Gentle Flutter of Mikimoto Les Pétales High Jewellery

Let’s take a closer look at some of the aristocratic highlights of this latest Mikimoto offering…

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.