Necklace Types: 10 Different Choices to Wear Round Your Neck

January 15, 2021

By Katerina Perez

12 min read

The variety of styles of necklace on offer is endless; and within high jewellery, they are often so spectacular and striking that an outfit is chosen to fit the necklace, rather than the other way round. So, let’s have a look at the different types of necklace available…

Every time you place a necklace, chain or choker around your neck you are following the same patterns and reaching for similar decorative adornments as your ancient ancestors, who lived some 40,000 years ago. Of course, our contemporary necklaces have a dizzying array of coloured gemstones, diamonds and precious metals that our Stone Age predecessors couldn’t comprehend. From the Sumerians and Egyptians to the Celts, Greeks, Romans and Etruscans, necklaces are about power, status and, of course, beauty. Below are some of the most recognised types of necklaces that are neither new nor old; they’re continually reinvented and refreshed capturing the essence of culture, place and time… how many things can boast that power?

1. Chain necklaces

Chain necklaces are simple, with little to no decoration apart from diamonds or gemstone pavé. The styles of chain link determine the look of the chain, though the most common is the curb link. There are also different terms for each of these necklaces, depending on their length: princess, (16-18 inches) matinee, (20-22 inches) opera, (30-36 inches) and rope (36 inches and above.)

Pomellato’s Gourmette Caméléon necklace from the La Gioia high jewellery collection is set with the whole spectrum of coloured gemstones

The Pomellato Gourmette Caméléon necklace comprises 29 gold links adorned with a gradation of sapphires, emeralds, tourmalines, spinels, tsavorites, garnets, rubies, tanzanites, aquamarines, topazes and diamonds

A contemporary take on the chain necklace by Fernando Jorge

A double-layered 14k yellow gold chain necklace by Lauren Rubinski

Sophie Bille Brahe Santa Fe chain necklace in 18k yellow gold with diamonds

The Catena Illusion chain necklace by Nadine Aysoy, crafted in 18k yellow gold and diamonds

2. Pendant necklace

A pendant necklace consists of a single item of decoration hanging from a chain. One variation of the pendant is the locket, which can be used to hold a memento of your choice, such as a photo. Another type of pendant is the very feminine lavalier – created at the beginning of the 20th century – with highly elaborate pendants, often crafted with gemstones and filigree gold or platinum.

Opal Minded Blue Symphony pendant with boulder opal suspended from a string of pearls

Anapsara pendant necklace with diamonds and enamel in yellow gold

Anapsara necklace with a dragonfly pendant, featuring opal wings and a diamond body

Argentov intaglio gemstone pendant accompanied by a statement gemstone cocktail ring

A Muzo emerald, gold and enamel pendant by Harwell Godfrey

Henn of Londone carved citrine pendant necklace inspired by the mythical phoenix

A tanzanite pendant by Jessie Foo

3. Bib necklace

The bib necklace consists of a number of layered chains or a single large element which covers the entirety of the breastbone. They tend to be large in volume and highly embellished, creating an extraordinary impact.

Jaipur Gems necklace and earrings from the Dazzling Diamonds collection. Photo by Simon Martner

An elegant diamond bib necklace by Luca Carati

The Bvlgari Lady Aarabesque bib necklace with pink and purple sapphires, paraiba tourmaline, emeralds and diamonds in shades of gold

SICIS Calipso Blue necklace and earrings with Akoya light blue pearls, diamonds and micromosaic in white gold

The Van Cleef & Arpels Izmir necklace from the 'Bals de Legende' collection with yellow sapphires, citrines, diamonds, mandarin garnets, opal beads and many more coloured gems in white and rose gold

A bespoke LEVUMA bib necklace suite with over 180 carats of diamonds

A Chanel High Jewellery necklace from the 2017 Flying Cloud collection, which drew inspiration from nautical themes

4. Lariat

The necklace style with a double meaning is the lariat: one version is a long singular rope or chain with decoration at either extremity, which can then be wrapped around the neck, or loosely tied. The second interpretation of a lariat is more common in high jewellery; where the necklace meets at a central point at the front of the design and drops to one singular chain or motif.

Jahan Jewellery sapphire and diamond lariat necklace with matching earrings

Jahan Jewellery necklace with a trio of oval-shaped rubies suspended from three curves of diamonds

A MIZUKI lariat necklace in 14k yellow gold with golden graduated pearls to decorate each extremity

Luca Carati High Jewellery necklace with natural brown diamonds and colourless diamonds with a detachable drop

Pomellato Sabbia of Tahiti lariat-style necklace with Tahitian pearls and 18k yellow gold

5. Sautoir

A very glamorous style of necklace is the sautoir, which consist of either single or multiple long, dangling chains, sometimes dotted with decorative links. Sautoirs have become enormously popular in high jewellery in recent years, and during 2019’s Paris Haute Couture Week, almost every maison included one sautoir necklace in their collections. The size and grandeur of the sautoir allows for a dramatic visual effect and, to add to this, the ends are often finished with tassels or pendants.

Hairaat opal, pearl and lemon quartz high jewellery suite. Photo by Simon Martner

Liza Borzaya sautoir necklace with emeralds and diamonds in hexagonal shapes

Ksenia Podnebesnaya sautoir necklace with pearls and diamonds

A suite by Veschetti jewellery with onyx and diamonds in yellow gold

Veschetti lapis lazuli necklace with diamonds in yellow gold

6. Rivière necklace

The rivière necklace is comprised of stones in a gentle gradation of size, intricately linked, creating the effect of a gradually flowing stream of diamonds or gemstones. The name of this necklace literally translates to ‘river’ in French, referring to the way the gemstones pass gracefully around the neck. This strikingly beautiful type of necklace puts the focus on the beauty of the stones rather than the design, and is a classic choice for evening wear or special occasions.

Ronald Abram double row diamond necklace with 119.03 carats of antique cushion-cut diamonds alongside a 14.28 carat cushion-cut diamond ring

A natural sapphire and diamond necklace by Jahan Jewellery

Boghossian Double Riviere necklace with 28 cushion and octagonal cut emeralds of 10.41 to 1.48 carats, plus 22 oval and rectangular cut diamonds of 4.22 to 0.70 carats

LEVUMA coloured diamond necklace with yellow, pink, green, orange and colourless stones

Luca Carati necklaces with tourmalines, amethysts and diamonds. Photo by Simon Martner

Madly amethyst necklace with diamonds

HARAKH Haveli diamond necklace inspired by the shape of arches on traditional Indian townhouses

HARAKH pink and white diamond transformable necklace

7. Chocker

The choker – popular since the Middle Ages and a style that has erupted again through the last decade – is a necklace that fits snugly around the neck. This type of necklace can be slim, elegant and refined or broader and more edgy.

Ekaterina Kostrigina choker necklace with golden South Sea pearls and enamel

Jahan Jewellery choker necklace with 297 round yellow diamonds

A diamond-set choker by Jaipur Gems

Louis Vuitton Stellar High Jewellery Collection Soleils necklace set with emerald-cut yellow sapphires, spessartite garnets, sapphires and diamonds

VAK necklace and ring with rubies and diamonds

8. Torsade

For those who are looking for a unique type of necklace, there is the torsade, which features multiple strands of pearls or gemstone beads twisted together. The term ‘torsade,’ means ‘twist’ or ‘cable’ in French, and examples of this type of necklace have been discovered amongst artefacts in ancient Egypt.

Olive Leaf pearl torsade necklace by Tiffany & Co.

A Bulgari torsade necklace with yellow sapphires, seed pearls and diamonds

A cultured freshwater pearl, aquamarine and pearl necklace by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co.

David Webb torsade necklace with coral beads, diamonds and an emerald cabochon

Yvonne Leon pearl torsade necklace with 18k yellow gold

9. Torc

A torc (also spelled torq or torque) is a large rigid or stiff neck ring in metal, made either as a single piece, or with a twisting mechanism of two components. The great majority are open at the front, although some have hook and ring closures. This type of necklace was especially prevalent across various cultures within Europe’s Iron Age, from around the 8th century BC to the 3rd century AD.

Azza Fahmy torc-style necklace with pearls and mother of pearl in 18k gold and sterling silver

A vintage Bulgari bracelet and torc in yellow gold, set with cabochon cut emeralds and diamonds, circa 1970s-80s, courtesy of Galerie Montaigne

Colette Penacho necklace and earrings with 6.48 carats and 4.32 carats of Muzo emeralds, respectively, paired with malachite, onyx and diamonds in 18k white gold

Opal Minded Serpent Azure boulder opal torc inspired by coral reefs

10. Festoon

Finally, the festoon necklace emerged in the Georgian period and continued well into the Victorian and Edwardian eras, but exactly what constitutes a ‘festoon’ is often misunderstood. This style is characterised by garlands or ribbons of natural motifs (flowers, leaves and vines) hung in sweeping curves around the neck and shoulders. To be a true festoon, a necklace must have swags or drapes of chains incorporated into its design. The stylistic descendants of festoon necklaces can be seen in contemporary collections today, albeit in modified forms.

Grace Kelly's diamond festoon necklace, created by Cartier

A ‘garland style’ necklace from the early 20th century, as sold by Sotheby’s

An antique Edwardian diamond festoon necklace with 'swags' or 'drapes' of diamond garlands, sold by Bentley & Skinner

An antique Edwardian diamond and emerald festoon necklace available at Bentley & Skinner

A Victorian aquamarine and diamond festoon necklace in the characteristic style

The singular word ‘necklace’ doesn’t do justice to the many types of pieces that fall under its linguistic umbrella. Next time you search for the perfect design, spare a thought not only for its aesthetic value but also its historic value and multitude of appearances throughout time.

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