International Women’s Day: The Talents of 8 Jewellery Icons

March 8, 2022

By Katerina Perez

14 min read

Tuesday, March 8, 2022, is officially International Women’s Day and I would like to celebrate by shining the spotlight on eight extraordinary females who have done remarkable things within the world of jewellery. I have personally chosen each woman for a specific skill, concept, or idea that she has artfully mastered; I hope you will feel the admiration I have for each of them pour out in the words contained below.

The theme of this year’s International Women’s Day on Tuesday, March 8, is #BreakTheBias. The purpose of this campaign is to highlight the utopian ideal of a world that’s free of stereotypes and discrimination, within which all differences are valued and celebrated. While I can only hope that such grand ambitions are achieved, I can definitely celebrate and champion diversity, talent and innovation in jewellery, where we are privileged to host many brilliant women. In this article, I am pleased to highlight eight women who are following their own path, creating covetable jewellery and running businesses that are recognised around the world.

Feng J Coloured Ginko Leaf brooch with a 9.89 carat purple spinel, double rose-cut sapphires, tanzanite, opals and diamonds in white gold. Photo by AlmaKarina Photo Agency

Feng J Coloured Ginko Leaf brooch with a 9.89 carat purple spinel, double rose-cut sapphires, tanzanite, opals and diamonds in white gold. Photo by AlmaKarina Photo Agency

As you can imagine, this list could easily extend beyond eight if I could feature all the women who have inspired content on this website. In fact, choosing this small group was remarkably difficult! However, they appear here because they have contributed to a specific facet of jewellery, whether the art of gem carving or the elevation of natural pearls. Continue reading below to find out more.

Margot McKinney

Australian-born, fourth-generation jeweller Margot McKinney is inspired by the exotic textures and vibrant colours that are so abundant in nature. From coral reefs to the dusty red hues of the outback, Margot creates one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces set with bold gemstones and, in some of her most remarkable pieces, Australian boulder opals. It is difficult to work with gemstones on such a large scale, not simply because of their volumes, but because there is an even greater need to focus on balance, comfort and style. Margot McKinney is a master at taking gems that others may find intimidating and transforming them into wearable pieces of art. She does this time and time again, without compromising her signature aesthetic. It is for this reason, among many others, that I include her here.

Margot McKinney

Margot McKinney

 Margot McKinney Atlantic Queen pendant with aquamarine, diamonds and pearls

Margot McKinney Atlantic Queen pendant with aquamarine, diamonds and pearls

 Margot McKinney Princess earrings with Burmese spinels

Margot McKinney Princess earrings with Burmese spinels

 Margot McKinney Bliss necklace with baroque pearls, diamonds and coloured gemstones

Margot McKinney Bliss necklace with baroque pearls, diamonds and coloured gemstones

 Margot McKinney Heart's Desire earrings

Margot McKinney Heart's Desire earrings

 Margot McKinney Empress pendant necklace

Margot McKinney Empress pendant necklace

 Margot McKinney opal and multi-coloured gemstone earrings

Margot McKinney opal and multi-coloured gemstone earrings

 Margot McKinney Starry Starry Night ring with an opal surrounded by diamonds

Margot McKinney Starry Starry Night ring with an opal surrounded by diamonds

Neha Dani

As the youngest daughter of a traditional Indian family, art jeweller Neha Dani says she was expected to “marry young and dedicate herself to raising a family”. However, she opted to study gemmology both in America and in the United Kingdom before returning to India to work in a laboratory environment. Nothing could quash her passion for design though, and today she creates three-dimensional jewelled sculptures that she hand-carves from wax personally. This meticulous talent for 3D carving wax – which is really quite rare among contemporary jewellers – is one of the reasons I am so drawn to her complex designs.

Neha Dani

Neha Dani

 Neha Dani La Pluma Loriini bracelet with emeralds, multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds

Neha Dani La Pluma Loriini bracelet with emeralds, multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds

 Neha Dani La Pluma Pavona earrings with emeralds, multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds

Neha Dani La Pluma Pavona earrings with emeralds, multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds

 Neha Dani La Pluma ring with rubies and diamonds

Neha Dani La Pluma ring with rubies and diamonds

 Neha Dani Kephi Irene pendant with blue zircon and purple sapphire

Neha Dani Kephi Irene pendant with blue zircon and purple sapphire

 Neha Dani Kephi Elpeeda earrings with pink tourmaline and blue sapphires

Neha Dani Kephi Elpeeda earrings with pink tourmaline and blue sapphires

 Neha Dani Kephi ring with yellow and purple sapphires

Neha Dani Kephi ring with yellow and purple sapphires

 Neha Dani pink sapphire bracelet in 18k rose gold

Neha Dani pink sapphire bracelet in 18k rose gold

Sarah Ho

Raised in Macau, Sarah Ho has spent 15 years honing her brand in London and developing a unique signature style that includes revamping natural pearls, including melo, conch, clam, bronze buttons and many more. It is unusual to find a contemporary jewellery designer working with natural pearls, largely because they are so rare and so typically associated with classical designs that stick to the status quo. Instead, Sarah creates romantic, feminine and colourful pieces that capture these rare oceanic treasures in cool, modern jewels that can be worn for special occasions and during the day. I admire her bravery in specialising in such an unusual material and defying the lure of classicism in favour of something far more exciting.

Sarah Ho

Sarah Ho

 Sarah Ho Penelope earrings, Pacific Pearl ring and Selene cuff bracelet

Sarah Ho Penelope earrings, Pacific Pearl ring and Selene cuff bracelet

 Sarah Ho Pacific natural pearl ring with a 5.41 carat natural pearl surrounded by 48 pear shaped rose-cut diamonds in 18k white gold

Sarah Ho Pacific natural pearl ring with a 5.41 carat natural pearl surrounded by 48 pear shaped rose-cut diamonds in 18k white gold

 Sarah Ho Selene Cuff with antique natural pearls, opals and diamonds set in antique colour 18k gold and white enamel

Sarah Ho Selene Cuff with antique natural pearls, opals and diamonds set in antique colour 18k gold and white enamel

 Sarah Ho Candy Conch ring and  Astra ring

Sarah Ho Candy Conch ring and Astra ring

 Sarah Ho Candy Conch pearl ring with a 17 carat conch pearl, diamonds and white enamel in 18k rose gold

Sarah Ho Candy Conch pearl ring with a 17 carat conch pearl, diamonds and white enamel in 18k rose gold

 Sarah Ho Fonteyn multiwear earrings

Sarah Ho Fonteyn multiwear earrings

 Sarah Ho Maia ring with a natural pearl

Sarah Ho Maia ring with a natural pearl

Gioia Placuzzi

Taking an ancient jewellery-making technique and transforming it into something contemporary is no mean feat, and yet that’s exactly what Gioia Placuzzi has achieved at micro-mosaic specialist, SICIS. She joined her family business after graduating from the Bocconi University of Milan and swiftly put her business, management and marketing skills to good use. She became the brand’s creative director in 2018. Today, she is at the forefront of a special micro-mosaic atelier that can translate the technique into jewels and timepieces with a modern twist. What amazes me is how Gioia has forged a new era for micro mosaics without references to draw from – no one else is presenting micro mosaic high jewellery in the same way, which means she’s setting the precedent.

Gioia Placuzzi of SICIS

Gioia Placuzzi of SICIS

 SICIS Bluebells Fall In Color necklace with micro mosaics, coloured gemstone cabochons and diamonds

SICIS Bluebells Fall In Color necklace with micro mosaics, coloured gemstone cabochons and diamonds

 SICIS Iris Mauve earrings with purple gemstones and green micro mosaics

SICIS Iris Mauve earrings with purple gemstones and green micro mosaics

 SICIS Destino Incantato necklace with micro mosaics, fancy-cut coloured gemstones and diamonds

SICIS Destino Incantato necklace with micro mosaics, fancy-cut coloured gemstones and diamonds

 SICIS Lily Rose earrings with elongated pear-shaped gemstone drops, marquise-shaped gemstones and micro mosaic petals

SICIS Lily Rose earrings with elongated pear-shaped gemstone drops, marquise-shaped gemstones and micro mosaic petals

 SICIS Butterfly Romance necklace with micro mosaics, coloured gemstones and diamonds

SICIS Butterfly Romance necklace with micro mosaics, coloured gemstones and diamonds

 SICIS Losange Émeraude necklace with micro mosaics, emeralds and diamonds

SICIS Losange Émeraude necklace with micro mosaics, emeralds and diamonds

 SICIS Calipso Blue necklace with micro mosaics, pearls and diamonds

SICIS Calipso Blue necklace with micro mosaics, pearls and diamonds

Feng J

Whereas Gioia is preserving and reinventing a technique, Chinese artist Feng J has created her own – the ‘Floating Set’. Officially revealed in 2017, the Feng J Floating Set is a method of placing thinly sliced double rose-cut gemstones in supremely delicate settings to give the impression of paints on a canvas, like colourful watercolour brushstrokes. It is for this level of innovation that I have chosen Feng for this Women’s Day list, but I could have equally chosen her for the beauty of her designs, which are feminine, whimsical and natural in origin, often taking the form of butterflies, floral blooms and leaf shapes.

Feng J

Feng J

 Feng J Dreamland Butterfly brooch with floating set gemstones

Feng J Dreamland Butterfly brooch with floating set gemstones

 Feng J Sunset Lily of the Valley bangle with a 3.24 carat Colombian emerald, white diamonds and brush-painted electroplated gold

Feng J Sunset Lily of the Valley bangle with a 3.24 carat Colombian emerald, white diamonds and brush-painted electroplated gold

 Feng J Anthurium earrings with floating set double rose-cut gemstones in shades of purple, blue and lilac

Feng J Anthurium earrings with floating set double rose-cut gemstones in shades of purple, blue and lilac

 Feng J Cala Lily bangle with a 20.95 carat black opal, double rose-cut sapphires, tsavorites, emeralds and diamonds in electroplated gold

Feng J Cala Lily bangle with a 20.95 carat black opal, double rose-cut sapphires, tsavorites, emeralds and diamonds in electroplated gold

 Feng J Green Lily of the Valley bangle with tourmaline, double rose-cut tsavorite, chrysoberyl, tanzanite, aquamarine and white diamonds

Feng J Green Lily of the Valley bangle with tourmaline, double rose-cut tsavorite, chrysoberyl, tanzanite, aquamarine and white diamonds

 Feng J Green Willow Leaf earrings with tourmaline, double rose-cut tsavorites, chrysoberyl, tanzanites, aquamarines and white diamond in electroplated gold

Feng J Green Willow Leaf earrings with tourmaline, double rose-cut tsavorites, chrysoberyl, tanzanites, aquamarines and white diamond in electroplated gold

 Feng J Blue Gingko Leaf brooch with floating set double rose-cut gemstones, sapphires and diamonds

Feng J Blue Gingko Leaf brooch with floating set double rose-cut gemstones, sapphires and diamonds

Naomi Sarna

Is it possible to consider the art of gemstone carving without thinking of Naomi Sarna? In fact, during all the years I have been writing about jewellery, I have never met another female gem carver and designer! She’s an award-winning lapidarist, creating pieces that highlight what can be achieved with training, imagination and passion. I chose her for this article because of her ability to surprise us with carved gemstones that appear like fluid or fabric, subtly rippling in the wind or flowing over curved surfaces. Her latest piece – the Jubilant Waves bracelet – is the perfect example with a swirling loop of Guatemalan jadeite that’s accented with gold.

Naomi Sarna

Naomi Sarna

 Naomi Sarna Dragon Wind necklace with a 169 carat Australian chrysoprase and diamond pendant on a string of coral beads

Naomi Sarna Dragon Wind necklace with a 169 carat Australian chrysoprase and diamond pendant on a string of coral beads

 Naomi Sarna's 725 carat L’Heure Bleu - the world’s largest fine colour tanzanite carving

Naomi Sarna's 725 carat L’Heure Bleu - the world’s largest fine colour tanzanite carving

 Naomi Sarna ‘Fire Empress’ with a 108 carat Mexican fire opal, multi-coloured diamonds, sapphires and amethysts with a royal blue lapis lazuli necklace, accented with white gold spheres and diamond rondels

Naomi Sarna ‘Fire Empress’ with a 108 carat Mexican fire opal, multi-coloured diamonds, sapphires and amethysts with a royal blue lapis lazuli necklace, accented with white gold spheres and diamond rondels

 Naomi Sarna ‘Solar Flare’ ring with a hand-carved 58-carat citrine surrounded by pink sapphires and set in 18k yellow gold

Naomi Sarna ‘Solar Flare’ ring with a hand-carved 58-carat citrine surrounded by pink sapphires and set in 18k yellow gold

 Naomi Sarna Iris carving with a 174 carat ametrine in a bronze stand

Naomi Sarna Iris carving with a 174 carat ametrine in a bronze stand

 Hand-carved 1,975 carat rutilated blue topaz sculpture on a sterling silver base by Naomi Sarna

Hand-carved 1,975 carat rutilated blue topaz sculpture on a sterling silver base by Naomi Sarna

 Paisley-inspired 105 carat citrine hand-carved by Naomi Sarna

Paisley-inspired 105 carat citrine hand-carved by Naomi Sarna

Claire Choisne

I will admit that whenever I am invited to see Boucheron’s latest high jewellery creations, I get a little giddy with excitement wondering what Claire Choisne has in store. Her level of innovation, especially in the tradition of multi-wear jewellery creations, is second to none. What is most impressive is how Claire is able to preserve the ethos of Boucheron in her collections and celebrate its history without sacrificing modernity. She has undoubtedly been one of the driving forces behind a new, gender-neutral aesthetic in high jewellery, including pieces that will be fought over by husbands and wives all over the world!

Claire Choisne

Claire Choisne

 Boucheron New Maharani necklace set with a 4.08 carat cushion-cut diamond, diamonds and rock crystal in white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

Boucheron New Maharani necklace set with a 4.08 carat cushion-cut diamond, diamonds and rock crystal in white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

 Boucheron New Maharajah Necklace set with nine Colombian cushion-cut emeralds for a total of 38.73 carats, diamonds, rock crystal and emeralds in platinum and white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

Boucheron New Maharajah Necklace set with nine Colombian cushion-cut emeralds for a total of 38.73 carats, diamonds, rock crystal and emeralds in platinum and white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

 Boucheron New Maharajah Necklace set with nine Colombian cushion-cut emeralds for a total of 38.73 carats, diamonds, rock crystal and emeralds in platinum and white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

Boucheron New Maharajah Necklace set with nine Colombian cushion-cut emeralds for a total of 38.73 carats, diamonds, rock crystal and emeralds in platinum and white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

 Boucheron New Padma Diamants ring set with a pear diamond of 2.01 carats, further diamonds and rock crystal in white gold, and the New Padma Cristal ring with diamonds, rock crystal and cacholong in white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

Boucheron New Padma Diamants ring set with a pear diamond of 2.01 carats, further diamonds and rock crystal in white gold, and the New Padma Cristal ring with diamonds, rock crystal and cacholong in white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

 Boucheron New Churiyans bracelets with diamonds, mother-of-pearl and cultured pearls from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection, housed on a wooden bobbin with mother of pearl marquetry and goat suede leather

Boucheron New Churiyans bracelets with diamonds, mother-of-pearl and cultured pearls from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection, housed on a wooden bobbin with mother of pearl marquetry and goat suede leather

 Boucheron New Sarpech hair jewel set with a rose cut diamond of 1.27 carats and a rose-cut diamond of 0.68 carats in white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

Boucheron New Sarpech hair jewel set with a rose cut diamond of 1.27 carats and a rose-cut diamond of 0.68 carats in white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

 Boucheron New Sarpech jewel worn as a brooch and set with a rose cut diamond of 1.27 carats and a rose-cut diamond of 0.68 carats in white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

Boucheron New Sarpech jewel worn as a brooch and set with a rose cut diamond of 1.27 carats and a rose-cut diamond of 0.68 carats in white gold from the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery Collection

Christina Lang Assael

It feels pertinent to mention here the late, great Christina Lang Assael, who sadly passed away aged 75 in January 2022. Her vision transformed Assael into one of the world’s most respected and admired pearl specialists, with a focus on responsible sourcing, building long-term relationships with producers, and giving new dynamism to precious coral, among other achievements. Christina took her passions seriously, including a dedication to conservation, animal rights, and serving on the board of various organisations such as the Natural Resources Defence Council and World Childhood Foundation. She will be remembered for her tireless dedication to such myriad causes and her affinity to the treasures of the sea.

Christina Lang Assael

Christina Lang Assael

 Assael baroque pearl necklace

Assael baroque pearl necklace

 Assael Tahitian Reverse earrings with bi-colour tourmalines and pearls

Assael Tahitian Reverse earrings with bi-colour tourmalines and pearls

 Assael bi-colour tourmaline and pearl earrings

Assael bi-colour tourmaline and pearl earrings

 Assael ear clips with marquise-shaped aquamarines and round white pearls

Assael ear clips with marquise-shaped aquamarines and round white pearls

 Assael pearl and emerald-cut diamond ring

Assael pearl and emerald-cut diamond ring

 Assael strand of white pearls

Assael strand of white pearls

 Assael 18k yellow gold ring with a yellow diamond matched with a golden South Sea pearl

Assael 18k yellow gold ring with a yellow diamond matched with a golden South Sea pearl

Tuesday, March 8 isn’t just International Women’s Day, it’s also an important day for women in Russia. The link to the number eight is what’s kept me reigned in when creating this article and has stopped me from writing about 20, 30 or perhaps 50 women who I admire! I hope it inspires you to consider the women who bring the extraordinary to life, both in the past, the present and the future.

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