Detailed Dials: Works of Art from Watches and Wonders 2023

May 10, 2023

By Livia Primo Lack

8 min read

Watch dials are a horological canvas where artisans such as enamellers, gem-setters and goldsmiths can unleash their creativity and showcase their talents. From detailed pavé work to guilloché gold motifs, these small surface areas are the focal point of any watch. Here are some of the most eye-catching dials on today’s watch scene, straight from Watches and Wonders in April 2023…

The dial is often where the character and charisma of a watch stems from. Although diminutive in size, it typically defines the overall aesthetics of a finished timepiece through shape, colour, decoration and adornment. As the following watches demonstrate, the dial is where brands can imprint their design DNA onto a watch and truly make the category their own. Let’s look at some of the best from Watches and Wonders 2023.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch  in rose gold,  pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch in rose gold, pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colour

The Reverso watch by the Swiss watch brand Jaeger-LeCoultre is its most iconic design. It was first created in 1931 as a timepiece for polo players to wear on the field. It was a near-instant success among the fashionable set and, over time, became recognisable as a high-end watch model amongst admirers and collectors. This year at Watches and Wonders, the brand released a model inspired by the Art Deco era. With a more feminine design expression, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colour in blue presents a geometric design case of mosaic-styled enamel. Created by the brand’s in-house artisans of Métiers Rares, the mother-of-pearl dial is encased in a detailed rose gold case set with blue and black enamel. The geometric pattern is executed through miniature-painted grand-feu enamel with accents of diamonds.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Blue watch in enamel, gold and diamond

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Blue watch in enamel, gold and diamond

 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Blue watch in enamel, gold and diamond

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Blue watch in enamel, gold and diamond

Creating this micro design is a time-consuming feat of artistry. The case must first be sealed with fondant or transparent enamel and then covered in layers of opaque white enamel that then is dried and fired between each layer to create a pristine canvas upon which designers create the geometric patterns. After that phase, the design is hand-drawn onto the surface, and coloured enamel is applied using a fine-tipped brush. Each colour block must go through the firing process between every application. A Reverso One Precious Colours case requires up to 15 firings and multiple phases of drying at 200 degrees. The final step, known as the “Geneva technique”, is where the design is coated and preserved in a layer of transparent fondant. The result is worth the wait.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Green watch in enamel, white gold and diamond

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Green watch in enamel, white gold and diamond

 Making of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Green watch in enamel, white gold and diamond

Making of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Green watch in enamel, white gold and diamond

 Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Green watch in enamel, white gold and diamond

Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colours Green watch in enamel, white gold and diamond

Hermès Arceau Petite Lune

The dial of the Arceau Petite Lune watch is an impressive work created by talented gem setters in the Hermes Ateliers. The dial space depicts an astral world of planets, moons and stars created in hard stones. The dark blue background results from sculpted aventurine resting on a mother-of-pearl background. This creates a natural shimmer that evokes the Northern Lights. To obtain this aesthetic, the aventurine must be refined until it is translucent, allowing the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl to shine through. This delicate process requires the artisan to monitor and check the stone throughout the refining process. The planets themselves are crafted from aragonite, the almost eclipsed moon from freshwater mother-of-pearl and the constellation of stars in the night sky is fashioned from opal and diamond. A total of 70 natural diamonds can be found on the white gold case for the perfect celestial finishing touch.

Hermès Arceau Petite Lune in white gold, aventurine, mother-of-pearl, aragonite, opal and diamond

Hermès Arceau Petite Lune in white gold, aventurine, mother-of-pearl, aragonite, opal and diamond

Cartier Métiers d’Art Baignoire Allongée

Cartier’s Métiers d’Art Baignoire Allongée watch is all about geometry and colour contrasts, featuring an abstract motif in black, white, silver and gold shades. Cartier is always looking to develop and intensify its core aesthetic, which the Allongée achieves by further exaggerating the recognisable characteristics of the Baignoire dial. By creating a larger and more curved shape, the design constraints become greater, making it more difficult to innovate on such a tricky surface.

Cartier Métiers d’Art Baignoire Allongée watch in white gold, gold, polished and sunray-brushed white gold, sunray-brushed yellow gold
, black lacquer, enamel
 and diamond

Cartier Métiers d’Art Baignoire Allongée watch in white gold, gold, polished and sunray-brushed white gold, sunray-brushed yellow gold
, black lacquer, enamel
 and diamond

This watch is particularly impressive because its case is designed in both yellow and white gold. Combining them is a technical challenge that Cartier’s watchmakers overcame by using a micro-welding tool. The welding is concealed using a subtle line of lacquer. Once assembled, the entire dial is divided into sections of varying sizes. Some sections are covered with black lacquer or enamel, whilst others are covered with polished gold or a sunray motif made by hand.

Cartier Métiers d’Art Baignoire Allongée watch in white gold, gold, polished and sunray-brushed white gold, sunray-brushed yellow gold
, black lacquer, enamel
 and diamond

Cartier Métiers d’Art Baignoire Allongée watch in white gold, gold, polished and sunray-brushed white gold, sunray-brushed yellow gold
, black lacquer, enamel
 and diamond

No matter which piece you choose, you can be sure they have all been meticulously designed and crafted, taking many hours of specialist labour to create. The black lacquer, in particular, poses a significant challenge as creating a smooth coat on a curved surface seems to defy the laws of nature, at least to this admirer’s eye. From machining to enamel, lacquering to jewellery making, nine different areas of expertise are involved in creating each piece. In total, it took more than 24 months to create this watch.

Métiers d’Art Baignoire Allongée watch in rhodium-finish white gold, blue tourmalines, grey and black spinels, mother-of-pear
l, turquoise, onyx and diamond

Métiers d’Art Baignoire Allongée watch in rhodium-finish white gold, blue tourmalines, grey and black spinels, mother-of-pear
l, turquoise, onyx and diamond

Rolex Puzzle Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

The Brand-new Rolex Puzzle Oyster Perpetual is one of the most fun and happy designs to come out of Watches and Wonders this year. Bursting with joy and life, its purpose is to bring happiness and positivity to the wearer. Its dial brings the best of social media and technology to your wrist, with an exciting surprise every hour. In the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock, there is a calendar with seven inspirational keywords instead of days of the week: ‘Happy’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’, ‘Faith’, ‘Love’ and ‘Hope’. Moving down to 3 o’clock, 31 emojis rotate, replacing the classic date window. The rest of the hours are marked by ten baguette-cut sapphires of varying colours, including fuchsia, orange, blue, yellow, light blue and green.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual DAY-DATE 36 in rose gold and enamel

Rolex Oyster Perpetual DAY-DATE 36 in rose gold and enamel

 Rolex Oyster Perpetual DAY-DATE 36  in gold and enamel

Rolex Oyster Perpetual DAY-DATE 36 in gold and enamel

Don’t get too distracted by these small details, though, because the true technical feat is the background of the dial itself. The puzzle motif is made entirely using the champlevé ‘grand feu’ enamelling method. Depending on what metal shade you choose, turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green and yellow puzzle pieces are laid against an 18K gold dial base. The champlevé enamelling technique is one of the most prestigious forms of decoration. A mix of silica, kaolin and water and various metal oxide powders helps produce the desired colour. The colour is then applied by hand using a very fine brush to create the pattern. The dial is then heated in a kiln to over 800°C to melt the mixture, which then vitrifies as it cools. This process is repeated four or five times until each space is filled. With these versions of the Day-Date 36, Rolex brings an unexpected creative twist to one of its iconic models.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual DAY-DATE 36 in white gold and enamel

Rolex Oyster Perpetual DAY-DATE 36 in white gold and enamel

 RolexnOyster Perpetual DAY-DATE 36 in rose gold and enamel

RolexnOyster Perpetual DAY-DATE 36 in rose gold and enamel

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie

Finally, Van Cleef & Arpels‘ latest Lady Féerie creation draws us into a fantastical dream world inspired by the ‘Poetry of Time’ through various complex artistic techniques. A celebrated Maison emblem since the 1940s, the brand has reimagined this time-honoured figure in new hues through enamelling and minute painting. This particular watch features a self-winding mechanism, jumping hours and retrograde minutes that come to life through an engraved mother-of-pearl background painted with four colours, ranging from pearly white to deep plum. The Maison’s craftsmen required more than ten attempts to achieve the final soft colour gradient. The iconic fairy is featured prominently on the dial, seated on a cloud of white mother-of-pearl, wearing a dress made of diamonds, pink sapphires, and miniature gold paintings. Her face is fashioned from a single marquise-cut diamond. Her wings are created with the plique-à-jour enamel technique using a special shade of pink crafted in-house to harmoniously match the colour gradation of the dial. Her magic wand points out the minutes whilst the setting sun at the bottom of the dial shows the hour of the day in a mother-of-pearl window surrounded by glowing yellow gold.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch  in rose gold,  pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch in rose gold, pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

 Making of the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch  in rose gold,  pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

Making of the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch in rose gold, pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

 Making of the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch  in rose gold,  pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

Making of the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch in rose gold, pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

 Assembling the mechanisms for the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch  in rose gold,  pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

Assembling the mechanisms for the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch in rose gold, pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

 Assembling the mechanisms for the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch  in rose gold,  pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

Assembling the mechanisms for the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch in rose gold, pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

 The back of the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie  Or Rose watch features hand-drawn enamel clouds

The back of the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch features hand-drawn enamel clouds

 Assembling the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch  in rose gold,  pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

Assembling the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch in rose gold, pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

 Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch  in rose gold,  pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Or Rose watch in rose gold, pink sapphire, white mother-of-pearl, opaque and plique-à-jour enamel and diamond

These five watches are not only showstoppers but feats of artistic mastery and craftsmanship of the highest level. Each dial is visually intriguing, technically complex and luxuriously beautiful. How will they top these? We cannot wait to see what the brands will release next!

Refined Eye: Christie’s to Auction Fabulous Jewels By JAR

continue reading

Essential Passion: The Artistic Pursuits of Mehragin Rahmati of Mergin Jewelry 

Jewellery can be thoughtful and insular, or it can be effusive and bold and full of character that makes it stand out from the crowd. I would put the colourful and charismatic creations of Mehragin Rahmati into the latter camp because of their attention-grabbing silhouettes, unusual structures, and confident mineral palettes.

by Katerina Perez

Maestro of Masterpieces: New High Jewels in the Picchiotti Classics Collection

Ahead of this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, Picchiotti has revealed some of the latest additions to its high jewellery repertoire, including new suites in the Picchiotti Classics collection.

by Sarah Jordan

Reasons to Shop: The Moments that Demand a Fresh Jewellery Purchase 

There's no rule that says you need a reason to buy a new piece of jewellery, but sometimes, a little encouragement makes the decision even more exciting. If you're looking for a playful excuse to book your next jewellery appointment, here are a few irresistible reasons to treat yourself.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Grecian Glamour: The Designers Preparing to Spotlight Greek Style at JCK Las Vegas

Recently, I was approached by the organisers of a special ‘Greek mission’ who are supporting 11 independent designers and brands as they seek to make their mark at JCK Las Vegas from June 6-9, 2025. Below, I would like to introduce you to each of the businesses participating in this incredible showcase of Greek design, ingenuity and craftsmanship.

by Katerina Perez

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.