Setting Themselves Apart: 7 Designers Rethinking the Role of the Gemstone Setting

In jewellery making, the setting is often a silent partner—a technical necessity that secures the stones in place while receding into the background. But a new generation of designers is flipping that script, transforming the process of setting gems into an expressive, sculptural and narrative force. From three-dimensional micro-sculptures to diamonds seemingly floating in midair, their work pushes the limits of craft, imagination and possibility.

This article spotlights seven such jewellers, each working with radically different techniques, materials and philosophies, who are redefining the relationship between gemstone and setting. Let’s take a closer look…