

TEFAF Maastricht 2026: The Jewellery to Watch at This Year’s Fair
For those who collect jewellery with the same seriousness as paintings or sculpture, March in Maastricht is unmissable. From 14-19 March 2026 (with preview days on the 12th and 13th), TEFAF Maastricht once again gathers the world’s finest designers, jewellers, Maisons and dealers under one roof at the Maastricht Exhibition & Conference Centre.
Spanning 7,000 years of history and welcoming 276 exhibitors from 24 countries this year, TEFAF Maastricht is a place where ancient artefacts meet contemporary design, and where museum-quality jewels are examined with the same care as Old Master paintings. It is as much a meeting point for curators and institutions as it is for private collectors searching for something exceptional.

From 14-19 March 2026 (with preview days on the 12th and 13th), TEFAF Maastricht once again gathers the world’s finest designers, jewellers, Maisons and dealers under one roof
For 2026, the jewellery line-up is as exciting as ever. Alongside long-standing jewellers and heritage maisons, a clutch of new names are joining the TEFAF community, bringing fresh perspectives, rare gemstones and bold contemporary statements to the Netherlands. TEFAF kindly shared some of the new jewels that will soon be making their way to Maastricht, giving you an early glimpse of what awaits collectors this spring.
New Jewellery Exhibitors to Discover in 2026
One of the great joys of TEFAF Maastricht is the balance it strikes between history and discovery. While many exhibitors have helped build the fair’s reputation over decades, each edition introduces new voices that bring something new to the conversation. Among the most significant jewellery debuts at TEFAF Maastricht 2026 is the return of Réne Boivin, a name associated with some of the most original jewellery designs of the 20th century. After years of dormancy, the brand is now undergoing a revival led by Thomas Torroni-Levene, whose family acquired the Boivin archives in 2019. The rediscovery of thousands of original drawings, molds and workshop records forms the foundation for a carefully considered reintroduction of the house. At TEFAF Maastricht, collectors can expect a presentation that bridges past and present, with important archival pieces sitting alongside fresh interpretations of historic designs.
Also joining the fair for the first time is Rome-based jeweller Fabio Salini, whose creations bring a distinctly contemporary energy to TEFAF’s jewellery halls. Since launching his eponymous collection in 1999, Salini has become known for his pioneering use of materials such as carbon fibre and titanium, combining them with exceptional gemstones. Presented at the fair by VKD Jewels, his vitrine will include the Chiocciola baguette-cut emerald earrings in carbon fibre and gold. In a past interview with us, Salini has said: “I am an artist, and I want to evoke something – making something that is simply valuable is not my goal. My modus operandi is to be brave and daring.” That bravery and experimentation will be on full display in Maastricht.
Belgian designer Dries Criel made a big impression in Paris last July when he unveiled his first High Jewellery collection during Haute Couture Week Based in Antwerp, Criel is known for his sculptural goldwork and contemporary fluidity. Presenting at TEFAF marks a natural progression in his trajectory.
Among the jewels on display will be Criel’s Spynx ring, crafted in 18k gold and set with natural diamonds, enamel and a striking cambolite – the trade name for natural blue zircon sourced in Cambodia. With its vivid teal centre stone, architectural setting and generous volume, the ring captures the essence of this emerging brand.

The cambolite and diamond Sphinx ring by Dries Criel in 18k gold and enamel
Swiss-born, London-based designer Cora Sheibani arrives in Maastricht with colour, wit and a refusal to play by the rules. Somewhere between botanical and fantastical, her Fern Earrings cascade in writhing green aluminium tendrils beneath geometric lapis lazuli “flower pots”, while the My Tetris Brooch arranges citrine and amethyst into a modernist grid, with each stone cut and faceted differently. Together, they embody her belief that, when it comes to jewellery design, colour, form and freedom can lead the way.
Also making his TEFAF premiere is Brazilian designer Fernando Jorge, whose fluid, sensuous silhouettes have earned him a devoted international following. Fresh from his debut at PAD London in October last year, in Maastricht he will present pieces from his recently launched Deep Vertex series, an evolution of the original Vertex collection, with a deeper exploration of material and craftsmanship and the subtle tension of opposites.
The Collectors’ Favourites Returning for 2026
Alongside the new exhibitors, a number of familiar names return to Maastricht this spring. Among them is Australian designer Margot McKinney with her artistic pearl- and gemstone-led creations.
Recently worn by Dame Helen Mirren as she accepted the Cecil B. DeMille Award in Los Angeles, the Bloem necklace is one of the key pieces McKinney will unveil at TEFAF. True to the designer’s signature exuberance, the collier unites eight significant tourmalines totalling more than 240 carats with 27 large Australian South Sea baroque pearls. Each bloom is edged with diamonds and coloured sapphires, while a rare baroque pearl drop detaches to become a brooch in its own right. Having shone under the lights of the red carpet, the necklace will be seen in a different context in Maastricht, where its scale and craftsmanship can be appreciated up close.
A regular at TEFAF since 1997, Munich-based Hemmerle returns with the Bauhaus-informed designs and material innovation for which the house is known. Among the pieces on view this year will be the Harmony bangle, a design first introduced in 1991 and revisited in 2025. Its open-ended curves frame a surface crafted using the 400-year-old Japanese mokume-gane technique, where layers of copper, silver and white gold are fused and carved to reveal intricate, woodgrain-like patterns.
For its second year at TEFAF Maastricht, SANTI continues founder Krishna Choudhary’s contemporary reinterpretation of Mughal heritage. Among the jewels travelling to Maastricht are the Lotus Earrings, inspired by a flower long revered in Indian art and architecture as a symbol of purity, transcendence and renewal. Designed as inverted blooms, rose gold petals frame old-mine rosette-cut diamonds and pavé-set diamonds cascade across dark titanium arcs.
German artist-jeweller Otto Jakob will present Hemerocallis, a pair of necklaces formed from real daylily stalks cast in white and yellow gold, their natural textures preserved in precious metal. Carré diamonds and antique Indian polki stones are set within airy, geometric settings, bringing structure to the organic forms. Meanwhile, Forms will include a striking pink spinel, ruby and diamond ring among its TEFAF selection – a high jewellery piece shaped around an intense marquise-cut centre stone.
Returning Maisons Buccellati and Van Cleef & Arpels are once again using the fair to spotlight significant archival works alongside new creations. While Van Cleef has yet to reveal its TEFAF selection, Buccellati will present a 1970 necklace by Gianmaria Buccellati – son of founder Mario Buccellati and a legendary figure in Italian goldsmithing – from its Vintage Collection. Created during a period when Gianmaria explored colour with particular confidence, the piece reflects his fascination with mosaic-like composition and richly saturated gemstones.

Buccellati is bringing pieces from the new, Byzantine-inspired Mosaico collection to TEFAF Maastricht
New creations from the Byzantine-inspired Mosaico collection by Andrea Buccellati, Gianmaria’s son, will also feature, building on his father’s fearless approach to colour with a cleaner, more modern aesthetic. Alongside them, archival works that inspired the collection, including cuff bracelets from the 1960s and 70s, offer collectors a rare opportunity to see the past and present side by side.
If this preview has whetted your appetite, TEFAF’s jewellery offering extends to a distinguished group of antique and specialist dealers who will once again be in attendance, including Epoque Fine Jewels, VKD Jewels, Wartski, Véronique Bamps, Marjan Sterk Fine Art Jewellery and S J Phillips Ltd. Didier Ltd will also be present, bringing artistic jewels by leading 20th-century designers. Together, they allow collectors to trace jewellery’s evolution across centuries and into the present day.

WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.

















































