Chaoqiu He: I Have Been Influenced by Art Deco Jewellery Since Childhood

December 29, 2017

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

Collaborations between jewellery industry experts always contain the potential to create the most exciting jewellery collections. One of the great examples of such partnerships is the Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 high jewellery collection; created by the Asian fine jewellery designer Chaoqiu He of QIU Fine Jewelry, together with the Colombian emerald trading company International Emerald Exchange.

The Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection combines a number of truly spectacular, investment grade Colombian emeralds mined and faceted by IEEX, as well as some top-quality diamonds.

Chaoqiu He’s fine jewellery design expertise has been garnered over 3 years of creating pieces for private clients, and has allowed her to dream up an amazing high jewellery collection of 12 pieces. Based around both the exceptional emeralds which IEEX has produced, and the colonial art deco architecture of Chaoqiu’s native Shanghai, it celebrates both human creativity and wonders of nature. In this interview, I speak to Chaoqiu about her motivation behind this unique collaboration, as well as her creative design process.

Katerina Perez: What factors inspired the creation of Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection?

Chaoqiu He: The main inspiration came from Art Deco buildings of colonial era Shanghai. The majority of those buildings are located in French Concession in Shanghai, where I live, so I’m surrounded by these unique constructions daily. It is these buildings that have influenced the architecture of my jewellery design.

 

KP: Is there a particular factor regarding the geometric, Art Deco design of this collection that you feel especially compliments emeralds?

 

CH: I have always preferred the emerald cut for emeralds themselves, as the gemstone has a strong geometric property. I have been influenced by – and gained inspiration from – Art Deco jewellery since I was a little girl, but I wanted to consider contemporary taste when designing this collection.

QIU Fine Jewelry earrings with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

QIU Fine Jewelry earrings with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

 QIU Fine Jewelry earrings with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

QIU Fine Jewelry earrings with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

KP: What is it that draws you to emeralds in comparison to other gemstones?

 

CH: My family has been in the business of trading jadeite for 25 years, and the emerald green colour reminds me of my heritage. This is the main reason for my interest in working with these verdant green stones, it is my favourite colour for certain.

 

KP: A large selling point of Colombian emerald jewellery is that these gems are of investment grade. How would you define the difference between investment grade emeralds, and other examples which wouldn’t qualify for this term?

 

CH: For me, investment grade emeralds need to meet certain criteria. First of all, the origin of the emeralds should be from a recognised source of exceptional gemstones, like Colombia. Secondly, the intensity of colour and the level of clarity should be high. And thirdly they should be accompanied by international lab certificate like SSEF or Gübelin. In my collection, I exclusively used Colombian emeralds that possess reputably sourced certification, and of course, exceptional colour and clarity.

QIU Fine Jewelry master nacklace QIU Fine Jewelry necklace with 33 cts emerald and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

QIU Fine Jewelry master nacklace QIU Fine Jewelry necklace with 33 cts emerald and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

KP: It seems as though luxury consumers are far more enlightened than they were even a few years ago. Do you see education as an important factor in the future of the gemstone, diamond and fine jewellery industry?

 

CH: From my point of view, education does play an important role in this industry, and in all of the luxury markets. Investment grade gemstones and diamonds are doing very well at auctions, and this means buyers become enthusiastic about the academic element of purchasing. It is also very important to me as a designer to provide my clients with the most stunning piece within their budget, which also has significant market value on it.

 

KP: Is it important for you to share the story of the pieces, from their conception and creation? If so why?

 

CH: I want jewellery admirers and collectors to have a deeper understanding with regards to my designs in QIU Fine Jewelry. I feel that the more my audience understands where I come from, the language of my design, and my vision, the more they will be excited by my creations.

QIU Fine Jewelry earrings with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

QIU Fine Jewelry earrings with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

 QIU Fine Jewelry earrings with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

QIU Fine Jewelry earrings with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

KP: In what way does creating jewellery which has an investment basis limit the style of design which the emeralds are presented in?

 

CH: Having a foundation of being investment jewellery does mean that certain, more obscure designs aren’t suitable, but I enjoy finding a balance between creativity and practicality. For example; within the master set of Shanghai / Shanghai 2017, the centre stone on the necklace is nearly 33 carats. It was quite a challenge for me as a designer to think of how to balance the elegance of the jewellery while showcasing the enormous emerald to its full potential. The finished piece was an amazing surprise, even to me!

 

KP: Was the timeless sophistication of Art Deco a factor in choosing to present the emeralds in this way?

 

CH: Fine jewellery has to be timeless, and this is an idea which is important to me. The geometry of Art Deco architecture mirrors the emerald’s cut so wonderfully, and for me the fact that Art Deco seems to defy the frivolity of fashion and trends meant it was an appealing design choice. I want these pieces to be enjoyed for lifetimes and passed down through generations!

QIU Fine Jewelry QIU Fine Jewelry ring with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

QIU Fine Jewelry QIU Fine Jewelry ring with emeralds and diamonds from Shanghai/Shanghai 2017 collection

KP: This collection took more than a year to create, and you said that this process has helped to establish a “design language and signature style”. What is the next step for you in terms of engaging a larger audience and introducing more consumers to high quality, investment grade emeralds and fine jewellery?

 

CH: The next step is to outreach to a more global audience with my next fine jewellery collection. I think that the best way to communicate the ideas in this new age of educated consumers is to demonstrate first-hand how great design and beautiful elements elevate jewellery into being high jewellery. I believe design speaks for itself, and the creations represent the personality and the vision of my aesthetic.

David Michael: We Treat Our Instagram Feed Like an Online Art Gallery

continue reading

Jewellery Manifesto: Tracing Three Pivotal Decades with Pomellato Collezione 1967

With Collezione 1967, Pomellato is presenting its ‘Jewellery Manifesto’ through 75 pieces, each inspired by one of three revolutionary decades in its creative history: the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. Let’s take a closer look at the Maison’s artistic signatures, reinvented for a new generation of high jewellery lovers… 

by Sarah Jordan

Pink City Style: The Best-Selling Reversible Jewels of Gyan Jaipur

I would like to tell you more about the brand, its origin story, design inspirations and its popular Jaipur and Yami collections

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Futures: Le Vian Unveils its 2026 Jewellery Trends in Las Vegas

Here's a rundown of what was included this year…

by Sarah Jordan

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Artistic Realms: The Enchanting Natural World of Histoire D’Elle

I had the pleasure of speaking with Pascale Van Maele, the Brand Manager of Histoire d'Elle, which celebrates the deep-rooted connection between quiet femininity, elegance and natural forms. Let's explore together…

by Sarah Jordan

Spinel Stories: Celebrating the Special Allure of Spinels with the House of Gübelin 

I visited the Geneva boutique of the family-owned business to indulge my passion for this overlooked gemstone and explore some of its beautiful creations…

by Katerina Perez

Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair

by Sarah Jordan

Ultimate Guide to Promise Rings: What They Mean, How to Wear One and Where to Buy

While the promise ring's meaning has evolved, its emotional weight remains, making it especially popular among Gen Z and millennial couples seeking the perfect, personal pre-engagement jewel

by Claire Roberts

Exquisite Escapes: The Idyllic Inspirations Behind the Diorexquis High Jewellery Collection

In early May 2025, Dior Joaillerie's Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane showcased an unprecedented high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, to more than 300 VIPs at the Château de la Colle Noire in the heart of Provence. Let's take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.