Cabochon jewellery: The most delicious jewels
‘Cabochon’ – a French word derived from ‘Cabo’ (meaning ‘head’ in Latin) – has been a preferential gemstone cut for centuries. Originally it was favoured in antiquity for the ability to extract the largest possible yield from a rough gem. Contemporarily it remains favourite of jewellery admirers’ and those who create gemstone pieces alike for a multitude of reasons.
Cabochon cut is the oldest style of gemstone adaptation in existence, as a practical evolution of the completely spherical ‘bead’ gemstone. It is flat on one face – the one that is fixed within the jewellery setting, while the other face is completely rounded. For centuries, it has been the easiest shape to achieve for gemstone cutters and polishers.
Resonance de Cartier bracelet and ring with cabochon rubellites
There are some stones that are traditionally cut as cabochons – such as opals, and gemstones that exhibit ‘star’ or ‘cat’s eye’ effect. The reason behind it is that their natural inclusions are best displayed through a curved face of stones. Also, since the depth of a gem intensifies its colour, a master cutter may prefer cabochon in comparison to other cuts, as this may contribute tot making the stone’s hue more saturated.
It’s possible that cabochon gemstones fascinate us in a way which is reminiscent of how we looked at crystals, and even coloured glass as children. Naturally, it allows a much greater depth, and appearance of volume compared to other gemstone cuts. The curved surface also enables a better view into the gemstone, which is especially fascinating with sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Their natural inclusions are displayed in all their intricate glory in this type of gemstone fashioning.
Boghossian cabochon emeralds and diamonds bracelet
Unlike a traditional faceted stone mounted in a claw setting, the natural inclination with cabochon jewellery is to touch and view the stone from all angles. Since there are no facets, the light travels through the stone, rather than refracting from its facets and creates an effect of seeing the sun through a stained-glass window, rather than prism.
Whether to choose a piece of jewellery with a cabochon-cut stone or a fully faceted one is a matter of personal preference. However, I am sure the selection of jewels in this gallery will spark the desire to own one.
Giampiero Bodino
Giampiero Bodino
Margherita Burgener
Margherita Burgener
Paula Crevoshay
Paula Crevoshay
Arunashi
Arunashi
Dior
Dior
David Morris
David Morris
Avakian
Avakian
Boucheron
Boucheron
Faberge
Faberge
Anna Hu
Anna Hu
Faidee
Faidee
Verdura
Verdura
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels
Niquesa
Niquesa
Chopard
Chopard
Brumani
Brumani
David Webb
David Webb
Cartier
Cartier
Bulgari
Bulgari
de Grisogono
de Grisogono
Cartier
Cartier
Tiffany
Tiffany
Pomellato
Pomellato
Ringo
Ringo
Faidee
Faidee
Martin Katz
Martin Katz
Suzanne Syz
Suzanne Syz
WORDS
Katerina Perez With more than 12 years’ experience in the jewellery sector, Katerina Perez’s expert knowledge spans everything from retail sales and management to content creation, including brand building, jewellery writing and styling. Born and raised in St Petersburg, Katerina’s favourite hobby as a child was playing with the treasures in her grandmother's jewellery box, inspiring a lifelong love of jewellery from a very early age. She spent five years in St Petersburg University of Culture and Arts studying not journalism but business studies and languages, and her writing skills have developed as her passion for her favourite subject – jewellery – has grown. This is why her writing comes straight from the heart rather than the pages of a book. Daughter of an entrepreneur mother, Katerina exchanged her retail management job for jewellery writing in 2013 and hasn’t looked back since.
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