Melanie Georgacopoulos: New Carats Collection Celebrates Brand’s 10th Anniversary

December 15, 2020

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

Pearls are one of the preeminent precious materials in jewellery and have not gone out of fashion for centuries. Even now, at this present moment, this incredibly beautiful material is undergoing a revolution with new designs and techniques changing it beyond recognition. Melanie Georgacopoulos is widely known for her innovative approach to jewellery and her work with these marine minerals. Georgacopoulos has just released a surprise new collection entitled “Carats”, which comprises natural pearls, mother of pearl and diamonds.

In 2020, Melanie’s eponymous brand turned 10 years old. She decided to celebrate this significant milestone with a special jewellery collection. It includes earrings, rings and bracelets adorned with diamonds and mother-of-pearl. The collection includes an eclectic mix of rather unusual shapes and also makes use of natural pearls in traditional forms. Unlike cultured pearls, natural pearls, like diamonds, are measured in carats, a fact that gives rise to the name of this anniversary collection. While these jewellery materials are considered classic by many, Melanie has said that “this is not a traditional collection or a collection of matching pieces of the same style, colour and technique. Rather, these are one-of-a-kind jewels that work to complement each other”.

Melanie Georgacopoulos Pearl Embedded Bangle from the Carats Collection with mother of pearl and hippopus pearls in 18ct yellow gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Pearl Embedded Bangle from the Carats Collection with mother of pearl and hippopus pearls in 18ct yellow gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos V Signet Ring from the Carats Collection with lavender and white mother of pearl and diamonds in 18ct white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos V Signet Ring from the Carats Collection with lavender and white mother of pearl and diamonds in 18ct white gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Diamond Embedded Bangle from the Carats Collection with mother of pearl and old cut diamonds of 2.34 carats

Melanie Georgacopoulos Diamond Embedded Bangle from the Carats Collection with mother of pearl and old cut diamonds of 2.34 carats

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Sqaure Embedded Ring from the Carats Collection with mother of pearl and an emerald cut diamond in 18ct white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Sqaure Embedded Ring from the Carats Collection with mother of pearl and an emerald cut diamond in 18ct white gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Oval Embedded Earrings from the Carats Collection in mother of pearl and carre cut diamonds in 18ct white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Oval Embedded Earrings from the Carats Collection in mother of pearl and carre cut diamonds in 18ct white gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Square Embedded Earrings from the Carats Collection with mother of pearl, emerald cut diamonds and hippopus pearls in 18ct white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Square Embedded Earrings from the Carats Collection with mother of pearl, emerald cut diamonds and hippopus pearls in 18ct white gold

Melanie, as usual, has moved away from traditional tactics to make the launch of her collection truly original. The jewellery will be presented in stages, not all at the same time. Such a strategy reflects the desire of the designer to work at her own speed and neither limit nor pressure herself due to artificially created time frames. With the current situation with COVID-19, this has forced her to rethink her own priorities and the quality, rather than the quantity, of consumption.

Melanie Georgacopoulos Pearl Embedded Bangle with 11 carats of natural pearls, mother of pearl and 18ct yellow gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Pearl Embedded Bangle with 11 carats of natural pearls, mother of pearl and 18ct yellow gold

As a result, Melanie has chosen fewer designs for her new collection, thus freeing up the time required to focus on the design and production of each individual piece. She has once again stirred up controversy in the jewellery world and has presented a completely new look by combining pearls and diamonds in such an unusual manner.

Melanie Georgacopoulos Asymmetric Drop Earrings from the Carats Collection with radiant-cut and rough diamonds and hippopus pearls in 18ct white and rose gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Asymmetric Drop Earrings from the Carats Collection with radiant-cut and rough diamonds and hippopus pearls in 18ct white and rose gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Double Pearl Drop Earrings from the Carats Collection with sawn rough diamonds and hippopus pearls in 18ct rose gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Double Pearl Drop Earrings from the Carats Collection with sawn rough diamonds and hippopus pearls in 18ct rose gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Double Triangle Drop Earrings from the Carats Collection with triangular rough and cut diamonds of 2.24 carats and hippopus pearls in 18ct white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Double Triangle Drop Earrings from the Carats Collection with triangular rough and cut diamonds of 2.24 carats and hippopus pearls in 18ct white gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Triangle Stud Earrings from the Carats Collection with 2.84 carats of rough diamonds in 18ct white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos Triangle Stud Earrings from the Carats Collection with 2.84 carats of rough diamonds in 18ct white gold

The uniqueness of the design of the earrings, bracelets and rings in the Carats collection is largely due to how the jewellery is formed: cut diamonds and treasures of the sea appear as if pressed into a base layer of mother-of-pearl, with all of the delicacy of a soft pillow.

I wanted the mother-of-pearl to really look like it had been pressed spontaneously—especially in order to contrast with the hardest diamonds. The feeling of being unable to fully control everything felt highly relevant at the time and this need for total manipulability finds expression in the positioning of the most valuable elements within the pieces. – Melanie Georgacopoulos

Melanie Georgacopoulos V Signet Ring from the Carats Collection with lavender and white mother of pearl and diamonds in 18ct white gold

Melanie Georgacopoulos V Signet Ring from the Carats Collection with lavender and white mother of pearl and diamonds in 18ct white gold

 Melanie Georgacopoulos chose white and purple diamonds, both cut and polished for her Carats Collection Asymmetric Drop Earrings

Melanie Georgacopoulos chose white and purple diamonds, both cut and polished for her Carats Collection Asymmetric Drop Earrings

 Melanie Georgacopoulos has used carving techniques to create pearl surfaces that look pillowy soft in the Carats Collection

Melanie Georgacopoulos has used carving techniques to create pearl surfaces that look pillowy soft in the Carats Collection

 Hippopus pearls from Indonesia have an important role in Melanie Georgacopoulos ' new Carats Collection

Hippopus pearls from Indonesia have an important role in Melanie Georgacopoulos ' new Carats Collection

 Melanie Georgacopoulos plays with soft and sharp forms in the Carats Collection using both mother of pearl and diamonds in innovative ways

Melanie Georgacopoulos plays with soft and sharp forms in the Carats Collection using both mother of pearl and diamonds in innovative ways

 The Double Drop Earrings by Melanie Georgacopoulos  feature 2.24 carats of rough and cut white diamonds

The Double Drop Earrings by Melanie Georgacopoulos feature 2.24 carats of rough and cut white diamonds

 Melanie Georgacopoulos Oval Embedded Earrings from the Carats Collection with carré cut diamonds

Melanie Georgacopoulos Oval Embedded Earrings from the Carats Collection with carré cut diamonds

 Melanie Georgacopoulos chose triangular rough diamonds to complement the mother of pearl in her Carats Collection

Melanie Georgacopoulos chose triangular rough diamonds to complement the mother of pearl in her Carats Collection

Each aspect of the jewellery deserves special and separate attention: the 18k white, yellow and pink gold is recycled; Melanie exclusively uses natural round and drop-shaped pieces of hippopus pearl from Indonesia; and the abundant array of diamonds is comprised of stones of a variety of styles, shapes, cuts, colours, characteristics and sizes. Playing with “soft” and “sharp” forms, Melanie seems to be looking for balance, assembling this equilibrium from a menagerie of elements. She has expertly managed to uncover a fresh way to combine traditional elements of classic jewellery in a completely new light.

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