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Bvlgari Eclettica: Inside the Roman House’s Most Eclectic High Jewellery Collection Yet
Bvlgari’s high jewellery collections seem to grow more extravagant every year. From 2024’s Aeterna, comprising more than 500 unique creations, to 2025’s no-expense-spared Polychroma, containing 60 “million dollar” pieces, each new launch is an event in itself. So when news of the Roman jeweller’s latest high jewellery offering, Eclettica, arrived, I was eager to see how Bvlgari would surprise us next.
As the name suggests, Eclettica is an ode to eclecticism, or the practice of deriving ideas from a diverse range of sources. For Bvlgari, this is a way of thinking that has guided the Maison from the very beginning.
The Eclettica Serpenti Infinia bracelet is one of the nine Capolavori in Bvlgari’s new high jewellery collection – one-of-a-kind masterpieces through which the collection’s most ambitious ideas are expressed
Born in Rome, a city where layers of history coexist in full view, Bvlgari has always operated within a richly layered visual landscape. Ancient ruins sit alongside Baroque excess, and classical art and architecture give way to bold, modern interventions. It is a place where colour, ornament and form collide rather than conform, and it is precisely this tension that has shaped Bvlgari’s identity.
In Bvlgari’s hands, eclecticism is not about juxtaposition for its own sake, but about instinctively knowing how to bring disparate elements into harmony. This has long been part of the Maison’s design vocabulary, from vivid gemstones set in unexpected combinations to tridimensional volumes that challenge traditional proportions. With Eclettica, that instinct is pushed further.
The making of the Eclettica Serpenti Infinia bracelet
Sketching the Eclettica Serpenti Infinia bracelet
Inspecting the Eclettica Serpenti Infinia bracelet
Painting a gouache of the Eclettica Serpenti Infinia bracelet
Setting a 7.49ct (D IF) modified shield-cut diamond in the snake’s head
The Launch of Eclettica in Milan
Unveiled in Milan, select pieces from the collection were presented across Villa Arconati and Villa Necchi Campiglio. More than 160 new creations were revealed spanning high jewellery, watches, bags and fragrances, including nine ‘Capolavori’ – one-of-a-kind masterpieces through which the collection’s most ambitious ideas are expressed.
Bvlgari ambassadors Dua Lipa, Anne Hathaway, Priyanka Chopra Jonas and Liu Yifei were among those in attendance, joined by Jake Gyllenhaal and Kim Ji-won, underscoring Bvlgari’s long-running connection to cinema and contemporary culture.
Rather than a traditional presentation, the evening was designed as an immersive experience, with each space dedicated to one of the artistic disciplines that underpin the collection – painting, sculpture and architecture. It offered a clear framework for understanding Eclettica, as a conversation between different visual languages.
The launch of Bvlgari's Eclettica high jewellery collection took place in Milan
I have often sought to define Bvlgari in just a few words, and ‘eclectic’ is undoubtedly one of them. It is a quality intrinsically woven into the Maison’s DNA since our very origins. Lucia Silvestri, Bvlgari Jewellery Creative Director
The Eclettica Serpenti Illusio high jewellery necklace, featuring a 14ct cushion-cut sapphire from Madagascar, buff-top sapphires and emeralds totalling 5.16ct and 23.05ct of pavé-set diamonds
The Eclettica Secret Garden high jewellery necklace featuring an oval Padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka weighing 26.65 carats, accompanied by 5.10 carats of Padparadscha sapphires from Madagascar and Sri Lanka, cabochon emeralds, buff-top purple sapphires and diamonds
The Eclettica Serpenti Spira high jewellery cuff set with Fancy Intense yellow diamonds, buff-top emeralds and pavé diamonds, in 18k white gold with onyx elements
The Eclettica Serpenti Infinia bracelet, featuring a 7.49ct modified shield-cut diamond, buff-top rubies, step-cut diamonds and pavé-set diamonds
The Eclettica Imperial Heart necklace, set with a 30.75ct Golconda diamond that it is believed was once in the possession of a Maharaja
The Eclettica Incontro Segreto high jewellery ring, set with two exceptional pear shape stones: a 7.85ct diamond and a 5.42ct emerald. Its name translates as “secret meeting”
The Eclettica Emerald Strata high jewellery necklace, set with five sugarloaf emeralds from Zambia totalling 26.05ct, step-cut diamonds, buff-top emeralds and pavé-set diamonds
The Eclettica Eclectic Embrace high jewellery choker, set with a 10.12ct octagonal Colombian emerald, diamonds and black onyx
Inside Eclettica
It is through the collection’s key pieces that these ideas become clear, beginning with transformation. Bvlgari presents 15 convertible high jewellery creations – the highest number the Maison has ever produced – each conceived to change form, offering multiple ways of wearing and experiencing the same piece.
The Seres Scarf necklace, one of the nine Capolavori, stands out as one of the most technically complex pieces in the collection. Composed of more than 1,180 individual elements and requiring over 1,600 hours of craftsmanship, the piece is designed to wrap around the neck or drape down the body with remarkable fluidity.
Eclettica contains 15 convertible high jewellery creations, including the Seres Scarf necklace
Inspired by the geometry of Art Deco textiles and the fluid lines seen in Tamara de Lempicka’s paintings, sapphires and emeralds are arranged in a woven composition engineered to move like fabric. A detachable brooch, set with a 31.90-carat sugarloaf sapphire from Sri Lanka, can be worn separately or positioned almost anywhere on the necklace.
Exploring design options with the sugarloaf cabochon sapphire centre stone
The 31.90ct sugarloaf cabochon sapphire is from Sri Lanka and displays the rich royal blue for which the country is renowned
The sapphire is set in a brooch, which can be worn separately or positioned almost anywhere on the Seres Scarf necklace
The necklace is composed of more than 1,180 individual elements and required over 1,600 hours of craftsmanship
One of the nine Capolavori in Eclettica, it is one of the most technically complex pieces in the collection
Sketching the different elements
Painting the sapphire accents
Rethinking Serpenti
One of Bvlgari’s most iconic motifs, Serpenti slithers through several of the pieces in Eclettica, though here it is approached with a greater sense of experimentation. Rather than relying on familiar forms, the motif is reworked through structure, scale and material, shifting between abstraction and recognisable silhouette.
In the Serpenti Illusio necklace, this takes on an architectural beauty, with a lattice of diamonds forming a graphic surface through which the serpent gradually emerges, its form articulated by a rippling trail of emerald and onyx. The design plays with perception, with the snake only revealing itself on closer inspection as the geometry gives way to a recognisable silhouette.
The serpent gradually emerges from the Eclettica Serpenti Illusio necklace, its form articulated by a rippling trail of emerald and onyx
A more unexpected interpretation of Serpenti appears in another high jewellery necklace, where the motif is expressed through colour and line. Here, the sinuous silhouette of the serpent is suggested through a sequence of cabochon mandarin garnets, pink tourmalines and rubellites, interspersed with emeralds and outlined in pavé diamonds, with turquoise inlay framing the gemstones. The result is more impressionistic, reducing Serpenti to its most essential form.
Painting the Eclettica Serpenti Illusio high jewellery necklace
The 14.01ct cushion-cut Madagascan sapphire centre stone
Crafting the clasp of the Eclettica Serpenti Illusio high jewellery necklace
A lattice of diamonds form a graphic surface of brilliance
The design plays with perception, with the snake only revealing itself on closer inspection as the geometry gives way to a recognisable silhouette
Painting with Gemstones
Eclettica leans heavily into the colour for which Bvlgari is famous, with large, highly saturated gemstones taking a dominant role. In the Secret Garden high jewellery necklace, it unfurls in an organic, expansive way. Designed around a 26.65-carat Padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka, its signature pink-orange hue recalls the light of sunset in a Roman courtyard. Around it, an elaborate collar of cabochon emeralds, purple sapphires and diamonds is worked into floral motifs, echoing both painted depictions of nature and the dense foliage of a hidden garden.
By contrast, the Emerald Strata necklace uses colour to define. Set with five sugarloaf emeralds from Zambia totalling 26.05 carats, the stones are set in a descending, cravat-like arrangement, with smaller buff-top emeralds tracing the folds of the fabric.
The Eclettica Secret Garden high jewellery necklace is designed around a 26.65ct oval Padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka
Painting the Eclettica Secret Garden high jewellery necklace
Examining the Padparadscha sapphires – more than 30 carats – that are the focal point of the Eclettica Secret Garden high jewellery necklace
The necklace also features more than 34ct of cabochon emeralds
Crafting the Eclettica Secret Garden high jewellery necklace
Setting the 26.65ct oval Padparadscha sapphire in the Eclettica Secret Garden high jewellery necklace
The attention to detail continues on the reverse
Beyond Jewellery
Eclettica was conceived as a complete world, extending beyond high jewellery into watches, one-of-a-kind handbags and fragrances. These were developed alongside the high jewellery, translating the collection’s language of colour, form and transformation across different mediums. In some cases, the boundaries blur, with handbags incorporating detachable high jewellery elements and fragrance flacons created as jewelled objects in their own right.
Just before the collection launched, Anne Hathaway debuted the Eclettica Neoclassical Starlight high jewellery necklace on the 2026 Oscars red carpet
Eclettica was conceived as a complete world and includes precious fragrance flacons, created as jewelled objects in their own right
One-of-a-kind Eclettica handbags incorporating detachable high jewellery elements
An Eclettica high jewellery handbag
A close-up of an Eclettica fragrance flacon, complete with a Roman coin – a Bvlgari signature
For all its scale, Eclettica never feels excessive. Yes, there are multiple million-dollar pieces. Yes, even fragrance is turned into something bejewelled. But these eclectic creations are surprisingly wearable, even at their most elaborate, as seen at the Academy Awards, where pieces from the collection were worn on the red carpet ahead of the official collection launch. When Anne Hathaway stepped out in the Neoclassical Starlight high jewellery necklace, we were offered an early glimpse of what was to come, and Eclettica more than delivers on that promise.
WORDS
Claire Roberts has been writing about jewellery and watches for more than 20 years. She is a seasoned journalist who joined the team 5 years ago as a contributing writer and a newsletter editor.
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