10 Interesting Facts About Enamel And Enamel Jewellery:

August 18, 2016

By Katerina Perez

3 min read

When it comes to modern manufacturers of fine jewellery you can say with confidence that enamel has not lost its relevance even to the modern day. This modern, ancient enamel keeps pace with the times and changes to meet the stylistic and technical demands of modernity. Like before, this jewellery material attracts enamel artists with its rich palette and it transforms into something more than just a means of decorative design. It is a substance which is the only way in which the artist can bring to life his creative vision.

Today Ilgiz Fazulzyanov is the leading enamel artist in the whole world, creating exquisite jewellery under his own name. You may, of course, correct me, but personally I have yet to come across any contemporaries equal to him in terms of level of craftsmanship. It was for this reason that I asked Ilgiz himself to share with me his expert knowledge about enamel and the various ways of working with it. Here are 10 interested facts which I found out.

Ilgiz F.

Ilgiz F.

1. Enamel is a glassy solid mass for “firing” which makes use of natural quartz and metal oxides which give colour. For example, violet is produced thanks to iron oxides and ruby by adding gold.

2. Enamel can be made in any colour but hardest of all is working with the red palette. Gold, which gives the quartz a red colour often behaves unpredictably when fired in the kiln. For this reason it’s very hard to know what colour items will be when removed from the kiln.

3. The fundamental techniques of enamel are cloisonné, champlevé and painted enamel. Cloisonné is one of the most time-consuming as before metal is applied to the enamel thin metal strips must be soldered onto the edge. They form the contours of the ornament and form cells which are then filled with enamel powder. The champlevé technique is one of the most ancient – it is based on cutting grooves on the surface of the metal of sufficient thickness which are then filled with enamel and fired. And for the application of the painted enamel a flat metal surface is usually used together with a brush.

4. The hardest technique for applying enamel is called plique-á-jour. Normal enamel is applied onto a metal substrate (gold), but plique-á-jour is stretched across a very thin frame. The craftsmanship of a jewellery working with the plique-á-jour technique relies on predicting the thickness of the layer of the enamel. If you get this wrong then the firing of the quartz can lead to the frame on which it is supported breaking.

5. The most important thing about working with enamel is to get the feel of it. To learn what type of layer will give the desired effect, what temperature to fire it at, when to remove it from the kiln etc. As in any work, the hardest thing of all is to go from being simply a craftsman to having professional flair.

Ilgiz F.

Ilgiz F.

6. If you want to prolong the life of enamel jewellery then be sure not to drop it on hard surfaces – there’s a high chance that the enamel will break away. If this happens, the jewellery, in most cases, can be restored. As with any jewellery, enamel jewellery needs regular cleaning and careful handling.

7. The most reliable enamel is produced with the use of only natural materials. This includes fine powdered quartz with added natural dies (e.g. gold) instead of artificial (e.g. fiberglass).

8. Handmade enamel differs from mass production enamel in that the latter is not produced with high strength enamel – that is, enamel that was produced at a high firing temperature of 720 degrees or more. Ilgiz often fires his kiln up to 900 degrees, something which is quite risky and can lead to unpredictable results. However, such an individual approach to the creation of each piece of jewellery allows him to guarantee the high quality of the enamel. Mass production does not allow for so much attention to be devoted to each piece of jewellery and therefore usually makes use of the cold method of enamel application.

9. The price of enamel jewellery depends firstly on the brand and the quality of the craftsman and also the type of enamel: cold versions are always significantly cheaper than hot. If the jewellery is made to order then its price will depend on the level of the craftsman.

10. Besides jewellery enamel is used for the creation of small plastic components, and elements of interior design and decoration. And this is only in terms of jewellery, enamel as a material has a wide range of uses in the wider world.

Ilgiz F.

Ilgiz F.

Boutique Review: Boghossian Concession In Harrods

continue reading

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Artistic Realms: The Enchanting Natural World of Histoire D’Elle

I had the pleasure of speaking with Pascale Van Maele, the Brand Manager of Histoire d'Elle, which celebrates the deep-rooted connection between quiet femininity, elegance and natural forms. Let's explore together…

by Sarah Jordan

Spinel Stories: Celebrating the Special Allure of Spinels with the House of Gübelin 

I visited the Geneva boutique of the family-owned business to indulge my passion for this overlooked gemstone and explore some of its beautiful creations…

by Katerina Perez

Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair

by Sarah Jordan

Ultimate Guide to Promise Rings: What They Mean, How to Wear One and Where to Buy

While the promise ring's meaning has evolved, its emotional weight remains, making it especially popular among Gen Z and millennial couples seeking the perfect, personal pre-engagement jewel

by Claire Roberts

Exquisite Escapes: The Idyllic Inspirations Behind the Diorexquis High Jewellery Collection

In early May 2025, Dior Joaillerie's Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane showcased an unprecedented high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, to more than 300 VIPs at the Château de la Colle Noire in the heart of Provence. Let's take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Millionaire Products: Celebrating the No-Expense-Spared Bvlgari Polychroma High Jewellery Collection

Bvlgari is opening a magnificent new chapter in the world of high jewellery, and high jewellery watches with the Polychroma collection. Here's what I have discovered so far…

by Katerina Perez

Sea of Wonder: Celebrating the Ocean’s Endless Bounty with the Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2025

Here are some of the creations that became an integral part of the Tiffany & Co. underwater world, including starfish, crashing waves and sea turtles…

by Katerina Perez

The Psychology of Jewellery: Why We Adorn Ourselves

From the earliest civilisations to contemporary fashion catwalks, humans have consistently sought ways to embellish themselves. Transcending mere decoration, jewellery acts as a powerful expression of identity, status and emotion. Whether it's the intricate beadwork of ancient societies or the minimalist designs of modern artisans, our choices in adornment reveal layers of personal and cultural narratives. 

by Claire Roberts

Gem Renaissance: Insights from GemGenève Talk on Coloured Gemstones

One of the most exciting shifts in the world of fine jewellery today is the growing appreciation for coloured gemstones, especially those beyond the traditional “Big Three” of rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. So, when the organisers of GemGenève invited me to do a talk, I instantly knew what subject I was going to touch upon - the rise of colour.

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.