Paul Wild: Secrets to the success of Germany’s leading stone-cutting business

May 7, 2018

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

10 generations of stone cutters had passed down their knowledge and skills to one another before 1927 saw the birth of Paul Wild, one of the most successful traders of coloured precious stones of the modern age. One can only envy the brand’s collection, it has everything: from rare Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines, alexandrites, sapphires from Kashmir, Russian demantoid garnets, as well as other tourmalines, aquamarines, topaz and many other more prevalent stones. I spoke to Markus Paul Wild – Paul Wild’s grandson – to find out what’s so special about the brand, and the secret to their success.

Being an established company and having our own mines allows us to offer a big range and more varieties of gemstones than other gem dealers. The wide selection we possess means that we can play with many different colours, shapes and sizes, and offer customers pre-designed layouts of gemstones for jewellery, which has become our specialty over time,” describes Markus Paul Wild, who joined the company in 1992.

Paul Wild Paraiba tourmalines. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Paul Wild Paraiba tourmalines. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

 Paul Wild Paraiba tourmalines. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Paul Wild Paraiba tourmalines. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

 Katerina Perez looking at Paraiba tourmalines from Paul Wild. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Katerina Perez looking at Paraiba tourmalines from Paul Wild. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Not only myself, but many visitors of the Baselworld jewellery and watch tradeshow were impressed by the number of colourful precious stone layouts presented by Paul Wild. The stones on display were collected in a range of designs and varieties, from which one could form long sautoirs, short necklaces, tennis bracelets and drop earrings.

Some of these were chosen for separate pieces, others – for combinations of necklaces and earrings or full parures of necklaces, earrings and bracelets – all of which require only a simple setting to become incredible gemstone jewellery when worn by the owner. 

Paul Wild pear-shaped rubellite, cushion cut tanzanite and yellow sapphire. Paul Wild Paraiba tourmalines. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Paul Wild pear-shaped rubellite, cushion cut tanzanite and yellow sapphire. Paul Wild Paraiba tourmalines. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

My grandfather-in-law – who founded the company in 1927 – passed on ownership of a variety of mines: including an aquamarine mine, a tourmaline mine, some ruby mines, as well as a Brazilian Paraiba and Mozambique tourmaline mine, explains Anne Wild, who manages the company’s PR. 

It is the ownership of its own mines which has allowed Paul Wild to offer their clients a wide variety of precious gemstones, and to make this possible without needing to involve intermediaries.

Katerina Perez at Paul Wild stand at Baselworld. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Katerina Perez at Paul Wild stand at Baselworld. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Incidentally – thanks to sourcing gemstones through his own mines – the company is provided with the rare opportunity to track the entire journey of the stones from the pit to the Paul Wild offices in Idar-Oberstein, Beijing or Bangkok. It’s also worth remembering that in the absence of an intermediary dealer the prices of the stones are more reasonable, giving Paul Wild an advantage over their competitors.

At Baselworld, Paul Wild’s showroom was the largest of any gemstone dealer, so it will come as no surprise that presently the company is amongst the most prolific coloured stone traders in the world. The craftsmen who work at the enterprise’s headquarters in Kirschweiler use their own hands to create shapes out of the rough gemstones brought to them, realising each stone’s maximum potential through decades of inherited knowledge and skill in stone cutting. A second workshop, opened 30 years ago in Bangkok specialises in producing calibrated gemstones.

Paul Wild demantoid garnets. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Paul Wild demantoid garnets. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

 Paul Wild trapiche emeralds. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Paul Wild trapiche emeralds. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

 Paul Wild alexandrite showing colour change in day light and room light. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Paul Wild alexandrite showing colour change in day light and room light. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

 Paul Wild alexandrite showing colour change in day light and room light. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Paul Wild alexandrite showing colour change in day light and room light. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

“We can identify all of our stones, because the style of our cutters is so distinguishable. There is a difference in the fine details; we have our signature cuts and proportions of the gemstones, which exemplifies the disparity of expertise in our craftsmen’s work compared to others,” says Markus. “When we facet gemstones, we strive to achieve the best look of stones depending on their colour and clarity. Take beryls for example: they are often more of a cabochon quality because of the high number of inclusions, but we occasionally give clean tanzanites the same shape as it is not a conventional cut for this type of stone. Then if it doesn’t work, we can always re-cut them.”

Paul Wild tanzanites of various cuts. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Paul Wild tanzanites of various cuts. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Of course, having your own stone-cutting ateliers grants you the freedom to fashion and create stones that are either traditional, shaped practically, or any way which you decide. This is why jewellery designers regularly turn to Paul Wild with special orders for stones that are unusually faceted. Giving a stone a shape inspired by a design is something only a gem dealer with their own atelier could offer, and this is another reason why Paul Wild has become a market leader in the sale of coloured gemstones.

Paul Wild Paraiba tourmaline set. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

Paul Wild Paraiba tourmaline set. Photo by Simon Martner for katerinaperez.com

As you can see, a whole host of factors contributed to the success of this German stone-cutting business within the gemstone and fine jewellery industries. Nevertheless, the Wild family has no intention of resting on its laurels, and continually strives to outdo itself by achieving even greater things.

Do not miss Paul Wild at GemGenève, Palexpo, Geneva 10-13 May

Baselworld 2018: Independent watchmakers

continue reading

Jewellery Manifesto: Tracing Three Pivotal Decades with Pomellato Collezione 1967

With Collezione 1967, Pomellato is presenting its ‘Jewellery Manifesto’ through 75 pieces, each inspired by one of three revolutionary decades in its creative history: the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. Let’s take a closer look at the Maison’s artistic signatures, reinvented for a new generation of high jewellery lovers… 

by Sarah Jordan

Pink City Style: The Best-Selling Reversible Jewels of Gyan Jaipur

I would like to tell you more about the brand, its origin story, design inspirations and its popular Jaipur and Yami collections

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Futures: Le Vian Unveils its 2026 Jewellery Trends in Las Vegas

Here's a rundown of what was included this year…

by Sarah Jordan

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Artistic Realms: The Enchanting Natural World of Histoire D’Elle

I had the pleasure of speaking with Pascale Van Maele, the Brand Manager of Histoire d'Elle, which celebrates the deep-rooted connection between quiet femininity, elegance and natural forms. Let's explore together…

by Sarah Jordan

Spinel Stories: Celebrating the Special Allure of Spinels with the House of Gübelin 

I visited the Geneva boutique of the family-owned business to indulge my passion for this overlooked gemstone and explore some of its beautiful creations…

by Katerina Perez

Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair

by Sarah Jordan

Ultimate Guide to Promise Rings: What They Mean, How to Wear One and Where to Buy

While the promise ring's meaning has evolved, its emotional weight remains, making it especially popular among Gen Z and millennial couples seeking the perfect, personal pre-engagement jewel

by Claire Roberts

Exquisite Escapes: The Idyllic Inspirations Behind the Diorexquis High Jewellery Collection

In early May 2025, Dior Joaillerie's Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane showcased an unprecedented high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, to more than 300 VIPs at the Château de la Colle Noire in the heart of Provence. Let's take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.