TOP 10 Jewels: Masterpiece London Highlights

July 16, 2016

By Katerina Perez

3 min read

Nazy Vassegh, CEO of Masterpiece London, the leading art and antiques fair, says, “Masterpiece draws your eyes to things you may not otherwise see.” And this is true, since many participants in this years exhibition (the seventh consecutive exhibition since the fair began) came from countries around the world, and getting to know their collectible pieces of art, interior décor and furniture, clocks and jewellery, is only possible Masterpiece London.

Among 154 participants were 16 jewellers specialising in contemporary creations as well as antiques. Despite most of them having a boutique or a showroom in the UK capital, some of the exhibitors came to Masterpiece from afar: Hemmerle from Germany, Wallace Chan from Hong Kong, Verdura and Belperron from America. These jewellers’ High Jewellery items are unique collectibles that excite the jewellery world. Christian Hemmerle, for example, surprised visitors with diamond earrings in the shape of flowers, made from aluminium, a metal not previously used in this way to create jewellery.

Necklace by Olga Tritt with aquamarines and diamonds, New York Circa 1939. Available at Wartski

Necklace by Olga Tritt with aquamarines and diamonds, New York Circa 1939. Available at Wartski

Wallace Chance immediately introduced some unbelievable products made from titanium, which not only embodied intriguing designs but also encapsulated the philosophy of Chinese maestro. And Verdura and Belperron were able to “touch history”, selling original jewellery made by legendary 20th-century jewellery designers Fulco di Verdura and Suzanne Belperron.

As far as contemporary designers are concerned, it was impossible to ignore the work of Geneva-based jewellery house Boghossian, the exclusive designer Michelle Ong from Hong Kong and the Italian, Sabba, whom many consider to be the protégé of JAR (the last two being presented as part of the Symbolic&Chase collection).

Boghossian earrings with yellow and white diamonds. The pear shaped diamond is 7cts and the marquise is 4cts

Boghossian earrings with yellow and white diamonds. The pear shaped diamond is 7cts and the marquise is 4cts

One of Boghossian’s earrings were made in the signature style of Toi&Moi, which means that both pieces has similar design or shared the same theme, though did not look identical. In the same vein were earrings made with yellow diamonds, one in the marquise shape weighing almost 4 carats and the other shaped like a droplet, at 7 carats. The pieces resembled the extraordinary verdure of the Garden of Eden: the right earring was a kind of fantastical fruit, and the left an exotic flower.

Michelle Ong introduced 4 new jewels, among which I have personally singled out a beautiful fish-shaped brooch. On the fish’s head flashes an unheated Burmese ruby of 5.36-carat, and on its body are pink sapphires and diamonds. Several display windows apart were the Sabba earrings with saltwater pearls and diamonds gathered together like a fan. Their alternative design looked tremendously stylish, and in spite of their rather large size the earrings were lightweight and comfortable.

Natural saltwater pearl and diamonds fan-shaped earrings by Sabba. Available at Symbolic&Chase

Natural saltwater pearl and diamonds fan-shaped earrings by Sabba. Available at Symbolic&Chase

 Hemmerle Al Project aluminium earrings with diamonds

Hemmerle Al Project aluminium earrings with diamonds

 Van Cleef&Arpels Papillon Mystérieux Clip – vitrail mystery setting brooch

Van Cleef&Arpels Papillon Mystérieux Clip – vitrail mystery setting brooch

 Michelle Ong diamond and pink sapphire fish brooch with 5.36 cts unheated Burmese ruby. Available at Symbolic&Chase

Michelle Ong diamond and pink sapphire fish brooch with 5.36 cts unheated Burmese ruby. Available at Symbolic&Chase

 Verdura gold rope and Ceylon sapphire Wrapped Heart brooch

Verdura gold rope and Ceylon sapphire Wrapped Heart brooch

 Wallace Chan Apsara brooch crafted in titanium with yellow diamond

Wallace Chan Apsara brooch crafted in titanium with yellow diamond

 Left – Belperron ‘Spire’ bracelet with yellow gold and diamonds, circa 1950, Right: Aquamarine and ruby ‘Double coronet’ bracelet, circa 1950

Left – Belperron ‘Spire’ bracelet with yellow gold and diamonds, circa 1950, Right: Aquamarine and ruby ‘Double coronet’ bracelet, circa 1950

Of course, these are not the only pieces of jewellery at Masterpiece worthy of attention, it is just impossible to fit them all in one article, but you will see a few more in the selection below.

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