Galons Dior: Braided Ribbons of Diamonds Channel the Ingenuity of Christian Dior

February 22, 2022

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

Victoire de Castellane, Artistic Director of Dior Joaillerie, has drawn inspiration from the Maison’s couture fabrics and ingenuity for over two decades, transforming everything from delicate lace and swatches of silk into delicate, shimmering jewels.

This season a new collection of high jewellery, Galons Dior, has been released consisting of 81 items (four of them secret watches) dedicated by Victoire de Castellane to the galloons – sophisticated ribbons or braid patterns intended for decorating clothes – that Christian Dior was famous for.

Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery necklace with diamonds and a vibrant pink gemstone centre stone

Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery necklace with diamonds and a vibrant pink gemstone centre stone

 Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery creation with a floral theme featuring colourless diamonds and pink and yellow gemstones

Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery creation with a floral theme featuring colourless diamonds and pink and yellow gemstones

 The Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery collection is inspired by the flow of ribbons and fabric

The Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery collection is inspired by the flow of ribbons and fabric

…I don’t pull collections out of thin air. On the contrary, for me, they are like a cycle of stories going one after another. I like to play with the diversity of Dior, as well as with different categories of jewellery, both casual and high jewellery – both play an equally important role for me. – Victoire de Castellane

Emerald and diamond creation from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Emerald and diamond creation from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Through these new pieces, Dior Joaillerie’s Artistic Director has strived to capture the sophisticated spirit and graceful curves of couture finishes. Diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies and spinels, cut into a variety of geometric shapes, are intertwined into precious “ribbons”. Marquise, brilliant, baguette and pear-cut stones intersect, intertwine and swirl as if they are dancing.

Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery earrings with fancy-cut diamonds and cushion-cut gemstones

Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery earrings with fancy-cut diamonds and cushion-cut gemstones

 Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery ring with fancy-cut diamonds and a cushion-cut gemstone

Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery ring with fancy-cut diamonds and a cushion-cut gemstone

 Pieces in the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection have lacquered prongs to complement the central gemstones

Pieces in the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection have lacquered prongs to complement the central gemstones

Fans of de Castellane’s work will immediately notice the extensive use of one of her favourite design techniques: asymmetry. Necklaces, bracelets and rings with contrasting designs on the left and right sides, unpaired earrings, jewellery with large stones shifted to one side instead of being positioned in the centre – all these jewels look extraordinary and spectacular.

Dior Joaillerie necklaces from the Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Dior Joaillerie necklaces from the Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Also, you probably recall that Victoire de Castellane repeatedly resorts to the use of varnish for colouring some collections, including Milly Carnivora, Dior et Moi and Rose Dior Pop. In Galons Dior, she also applied green, blue and red lacquer, but not to saturate the jewellery with colour. On several rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces with central emeralds, sapphires and rubies, she lacquered the prongs holding the central stones to smooth out the unnecessary contrast with the gold metal. Thus, the green, blue or red of the piece is accentuated further.

Dior Joaillerie diamond necklace from the Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Dior Joaillerie diamond necklace from the Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

 Rows of fancy-cut diamonds feature in this piece by Dior Joaillerie from the Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Rows of fancy-cut diamonds feature in this piece by Dior Joaillerie from the Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

 Asymmetrical diamond earrings from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Asymmetrical diamond earrings from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

 Layers of fancy-cut diamonds are used to recreate the movement of fabric in this piece from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Layers of fancy-cut diamonds are used to recreate the movement of fabric in this piece from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

 Asymmetrical diamond earrings from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Asymmetrical diamond earrings from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

 Diamond-set lapel pin from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Diamond-set lapel pin from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

 Fancy-cut diamond earrings from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Fancy-cut diamond earrings from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

If we digress from these visual matters, then the devotion of Victoire de Castellane to several current trends begs our attention: there is not only a tendency to create jewellery solely from colourless diamonds but also the exponentially growing fashion for men’s jewellery. Indeed, there was much less colour in high jewellery this season than in previous ones! And it seems to me that this is due to the pandemic: until the exhibition schedule returns to normal, access to coloured gemstones will be limited.

Layered diamond necklaces from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Layered diamond necklaces from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Along with necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets for women, de Castellane included, for the first time, two pairs of cufflinks and two brooches made especially for men in the high jewellery collection. These were encrusted with diamonds of various cuts that concealed the white gold as much as possible, making them look as though they were floating in the air. Frankly, such brooches and cufflinks would appeal not only to men but also to their other halves. I would definitely ask my husband to share his with me!

Fancy-cut diamond cufflinks from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Fancy-cut diamond cufflinks from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

 Fancy-cut diamond and gemstone cufflinks from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

Fancy-cut diamond and gemstone cufflinks from the Dior Joaillerie Galons Dior High Jewellery Collection

At the presentation in Paris, about 50 works were on display. The remaining 30 will gradually supplement the collection as soon as they are ready.

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