Burmese Ruby: The Lord of Red Corundum

July 22, 2014

By Jodie Smith

5 min read

I would like to dedicate this article to the ruby, July’s birthstone.

Which gemstones do you think are the most expensive in the world? Diamonds? This is a common misconception. The most expensive gemstones in the world (valued at price per carat) are extremely rare rubies that are mined in Burma.

Important 29.62 CTS ruby and diamond ring mounted by Cartier and sold at Sotheby’s

Important 29.62 CTS ruby and diamond ring mounted by Cartier and sold at Sotheby’s

Burma, also known as Myanmar, is a small sovereign state situated in the South East of Asia on the Indo-Chinese peninsula. If you ever visit this region, you may well find plenty of jewellery with Burmese rubies in the local stores. But take care when purchasing them because not all red corundum mined in the area is high quality: some of the gems have duller colours; some are have crystal inclusions or those of various minerals; others are likely to look less attractive in certain lighting conditions.

Ruby ring by Chaumet sold at Sotheby’s

Ruby ring by Chaumet sold at Sotheby’s

As with any coloured gemstone, the rich hue is the first sign. In the mines Mogok – a mountainous range situated in the northern part of Myanmar – mined rubies are characterised by their deep red colour punctuated by a slight blue tint, giving these rubes a certain name – “pigeon blood” (a term I am sure you have heard often). This charming shade of red is not too light, nor too dark – the reason why it is considered the benchmark of red corundum beauty. Chromium gives the rubies their characteristic pigment; and not only colour but fluorescence too.

ORLOV Burmese ruby bracelet with a 12ct oval ruby in the centre. The piece is on display at the label’s fine-jewellery exhibition, A Precious Dream at the Hotel De Paris, Monaco

ORLOV Burmese ruby bracelet with a 12ct oval ruby in the centre. The piece is on display at the label’s fine-jewellery exhibition, A Precious Dream at the Hotel De Paris, Monaco

When it comes to diamonds, fluorescence is not desirable; but the more the better when it comes to rubies. In Burmese stones artificial light heightens this quality. Particularly conspicuous in the red part of colour spectrum, fluorescence makes the redness of ruby all the more intense. Indeed, it often almost seems as if the stone is lit from within, flickering like a hot coal. But do not to succumb to the charm of stone under artificial light.  Avoid an unpleasant, disappointing surprise by checking the gem against natural light.

Highly important and extremely rare, natural Burma ruby sautoir by G London. The total weight of rubies is 106.83 cts, they do not have any indication of heat treatment

Highly important and extremely rare, natural Burma ruby sautoir by G London. The total weight of rubies is 106.83 cts, they do not have any indication of heat treatment

The transparency of rubies is the second factor that determines their value. The mantra “the purer the gem, the higher the price” can be applied to any gemstone. However, ruby crystals are traditionally filled with microscopic inclusions of other minerals – calcite, for example. If they are concentrated into small amounts and are only visible with a magnifying glass, it does not affect the price a great deal. Besides, the most common inclusion called “silk” may increase the value of the stone, providing it intensifies a gem’s fluoresce, making it “blaze” with colour. Rutiles of “silk” resemble tiny needles that are embedded in the ruby, either in parallel or a criss-cross alignment. One should keep in mind that “silk” inclusions should be present in moderation: excessive impurity dulls up the coloration, and therefore the price, of gems.

BOGH-ART ring with an oval Burmese ruby and diamonds, no indication of heat treatment

BOGH-ART ring with an oval Burmese ruby and diamonds, no indication of heat treatment

Bayco 10 cts Burmese ruby ring with diamonds

Bayco 10 cts Burmese ruby ring with diamonds

It is no secret that the purity and colour of rubies can be improved by heat treatment. Although treated rubies may look more attractive, their price will be significantly lower. When buying any jewellery with red corundum it is always paramount to check the certificate to establish if a gem has been heat treated or not.

A Cartier ring composed of a bezel-set oval-cut 5.86 cts Burmese ruby in an octagonal frame. As per certificate, ruby was not heat treated. Available at Siegelson

A Cartier ring composed of a bezel-set oval-cut 5.86 cts Burmese ruby in an octagonal frame. As per certificate, ruby was not heat treated. Available at Siegelson

Precious specimens of large sizes are (unfortunately) very rare, and in such cases faceted stones rarely exceed five carats. At present the most expensive ruby ever sold at an auction is a 29.62 ct Burmese oval stone. It is mounted on an intricate diamond setting designed by the legendary jewellery house, Cartier. The ring was auctioned at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong in the spring of 2014, and purchased by a private collector for $ 7,338,462.

Forms Jewellery, Hong Kong. A ring featuring a 3.85ct ruby from Mogok set with with 6 triangle shaped diamonds each weighing over 1ct and 6 Burmese ruby cabochons over 1ct each

Forms Jewellery, Hong Kong. A ring featuring a 3.85ct ruby from Mogok set with with 6 triangle shaped diamonds each weighing over 1ct and 6 Burmese ruby cabochons over 1ct each

A few years earlier, in 2012, one of the largest Burmese rubies that boasted an alluring pigeon blood glow was sold at a Sotheby’s auction in Geneva. Did I mention that the gem had no indication of colour enhancement whatsoever? Just over 32 CT, it was elegantly mounted on a ring, and decorated with two trapezoid diamonds on each side. It bore the hallmark of the Parisian jewellery house, Chaumet (renowned for its use of some of the finest gemstones). The unique ring previously belonged to Luz Mila Patino, Countess du Boisrouvray, and was acquired in May 2012 for a “modest” amount – $ 6,736,750.

David Morris. Pigeon blood Ruby earrings, 5.09ct and 5.02cts each with no heat treatment. Rubies are surrounded by pear-shaped diamonds and set in 18ct white gold

David Morris. Pigeon blood Ruby earrings, 5.09ct and 5.02cts each with no heat treatment. Rubies are surrounded by pear-shaped diamonds and set in 18ct white gold

Unlike diamonds, the price of which is calculated by the Rapaport table, it is impossible to determine exactly how much a natural, pigeon blood Burmese ruby should cost. One thing is clear: the prices of such stones will continue to climb, and quickly too.

Graff Daimonds bracelet from the Biennale 2014 collection. Centre ruby of 5.04 carat cushion cut Pigeon blood Burmese ruby is surrounded by 20.78cts of diamonds and 31.19cts of rubies.

Graff Daimonds bracelet from the Biennale 2014 collection. Centre ruby of 5.04 carat cushion cut Pigeon blood Burmese ruby is surrounded by 20.78cts of diamonds and 31.19cts of rubies.

If, after reading this article, you are considering an investment in a Burmese ruby, be prepared to spend a lot of time finding the perfect stone. Jewellery that incorporates natural Burmese rubies enriched with the iconic pigeon blood colour is a rare find nowadays. This explains their high price tag – jewellery with stones exceeding five carats often exceeds a million dollars in price. Without disclosing the price, I would like to present you with some of the best jewels available today from various brands from all over the world.

Bayco Jewellers: A Gem Is Our Muse

continue reading

Blinded by the Light: The April Birthstone Through the Lens of Diamond Pavé

Let's consider pieces that showcase this method of craftsmanship in all its sparkling glory…

by Katerina Perez

Love Language: Introducing the Expressive Creations of Zome Jewellery

For designers like Meghna Biswas, the woman behind Zome Jewellery in the United Arab Emirates, the process of transforming coloured gemstones and precious metals into beautiful creations is an ever-evolving love language

by Katerina Perez

Diamond Garden: Creating Digital Delights with AI Artist Anastasia Rogozhina

Take a look and consider the incredible feats that artificial intelligence can achieve in empowering creativity and broadening our minds

by Katerina Perez

100 Years of Art Deco: Top 10 Pieces of Art Deco Jewellery Sold at Auction

From the legendary Van Cleef & Arpels Jarretière bracelet worn by Marlene Dietrich to a striking aigrette that was once part of the Al Thani collection, all the pieces below are infused with the fearless originality of the Jazz Age

by Claire Roberts

Spirited Jewels: The Expressive Creativity of Elena Semy Jewellery 

Today, I'd like to introduce you to the creative designs of Elena Semy Jewellery and Elena, the artist behind them

by Katerina Perez

Rings of Power: Bold Torques are Making a Fine Jewellery Comeback

This powerful necklace with ancient roots is reclaiming its place in contemporary jewellery collections. Its sleek yet rigid silhouette speaks to confident women who want to assert a quiet power. Plus, it is the perfect setting for a chic diamond drop. 

by Rachael Taylor

Ocean Depths: Sotheby’s to Auction the Fancy Vivid Mediterranean Blue Diamond 

This sensational stone is due to be unveiled globally in Abu Dhabi on April 8 and will be auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva on May 13. Before the bidding flurry commences, let’s take a closer look at this rare blue specimen that’s estimated to sell for in the region of US$20 million

by Sarah Jordan

All That Jazz: 100 Years of Art Deco Jewellery

This wonderfully decadent period of Prohibition parties, glittering cocktail soirées and exuberant Art Deco jewellery, which straddled more than a quarter of a century from 1908 to 1935, had a profound effect on society that touched upon almost every aspect of life in its pursuit of beauty, with the worlds of art, adornment, fashion, interiors, architecture and technology all irreversibly changed as a result

by Claire Roberts

Girls Just Want To Have Fun: An Elevated Take On Nostalgic and Joyous Jewellery

The days have just gotten lighter, which makes them seem longer, indicating that Spring will soon be here. And today, on April Fool’s Day, we begin to feel a sense of frivolity and play. Therefore, we hope to put a smile on your face with this article dedicated to jewellery with a dash of humour and a whole lot of wit

by Beth Bernstein

Aquamarine Tales Part II: Epic Stones, Extraordinary Finds & Royal Treasures

Aquamarine has long been adored for its serene blue hues and storied past. But beyond its beauty lies a world of extraordinary discoveries, epic stones and tales of fate that seem almost too incredible to be true

by Katerina Perez

Tanzanite Temptations: The Gemstone Specialisms of the Royal Touch Group

I spoke to Royal Touch Group Principal Ashish Rawat about his third-generation family business, its beginnings in emeralds, and its ties to the global promotion and distribution of Tanzania’s famed blue gem

by Katerina Perez

Aquamarine Tales Part I:  Stories of Healing, Connection & Some Truly Extraordinary Gems

I’ve always been captivated by the stories behind jewels and gems, so to celebrate March’s birthstone, I recently took to Instagram and asked my audience to share their most memorable aquamarine tales

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Century of Splendour:Louis Vuitton Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds Chapter II

Creative Director Francesca Amfitheatrof offers her unique interpretation of a pivotal period in France’s history, marked by the French Revolution, the Napoleonic era, and the rise of industrialism

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.