Messika: New Voltige High Jewellery Collection is a Bravura Performance
In November last year we published an article titled “Jewellery Trend: Floating Diamond Designs” featuring a variety of unusual gemstone settings that created the illusion of stones floating in the air. Even back then, I noticed that the celebrated French brand Messika was experimenting with blade setting, a practice that involves the use of narrow strips of metal which resemble a blade. From the front, these “blades” appear almost invisible, allowing the diamonds to be set free. This year, this unique visual effect is fully revealed by Valérie Messika in her new Voltige high jewellery collection, which translates as “Acrobatics”.
The collection consists of almost two dozen designs, divided into six chapters: Danseurs Aeriens, Bascules, Trapézistes, Illusionistes, Equilibristes and Acrobates. All have one thing in common: the presence of stunning diamonds that boast an impressive carat weight – Messika’s speciality. For example, the Trapézistes earrings are accompanied by a ring in which the central decorative element is a diamond-shaped pavé frame supported by baguette cut diamonds that serves as a trapeze. The acrobat, a 10.19 carat Fancy Yellow pear cut diamond, sits at the heart of the ring. Another circus stunt, walking the tightrope, is depicted in a ring and two mono earrings that frame heart-shaped diamonds in delicate golden frames, held in place by the “blade” setting technique I mentioned earlier.
The theme of circus artists whose main tool is their body arises throughout the collection: gymnasts, illusionists, acrobats and so on. The collection, which took approximately two months to make, was created almost as swiftly as the movements of these great performers – a feat that is even more astonishing when one considers that more than 100 sketches had to be prepared before the craftsmanship of many of the jewels could begin.
Circus artists are very strong and yet very light at the same time. The same qualities are embedded in our brand’s DNA, says Valérie, sharing the source of her inspiration. I tried to choose not only the very best diamonds for my jewellery, but also to make them as comfortable as possible so when one is moving, it feels as if the pieces glide over the skin. I’m obsessed with this idea that they should be more than just comfortable and in fact move with you, the wearer.
Messika Voltige Trapézistes high jewellery diamond earrings. The geometric lines overlap and intertwine, displaying mesmerising movement
Among the most impressive diamonds in the collection are two colourless emerald and pear cut stones weighing 5.06 carats and 6.02 carats, showcased in the Danseurs Aériens mono-earring. The asymmetric design disperses the gaze and seems to leave only these stunning diamonds soaring in the air. A double ring from the same chapter features similarly beautiful 7.74 carat and 7.06 carat diamonds, which are set to create the illusion that the stones float upon the skin, held there by an unknown force.
The idea of returning to one’s roots is a principle that appears at the very heart of Valérie’s work on the Voltige collection and manifests itself in her placing diamonds as the central design element of the collection. “The current situation in the world reflects the need for humankind to return to its foundations. Balance and imbalance, lightness and energy – the diamonds in this collection, like air dancers, move harmoniously in a manner truly unique to the stone,” she explains.
Valérie Messika explores space as if walking on an invisible tightrope in the new Voltige high jewellery collection
To present Messika’s new Voltige collection, Valérie chose an unusual format, dictated by the new realities of life: she broadcast a video conference from her Paris studio. In front of representatives of the world press from Canada, Russia, Germany and other countries, she unveiled the range of dazzling creations from the collection, which are now available for all to enjoy.
WORDS
Katerina Perez With more than 12 years’ experience in the jewellery sector, Katerina Perez’s expert knowledge spans everything from retail sales and management to content creation, including brand building, jewellery writing and styling. Born and raised in St Petersburg, Katerina’s favourite hobby as a child was playing with the treasures in her grandmother's jewellery box, inspiring a lifelong love of jewellery from a very early age. She spent five years in St Petersburg University of Culture and Arts studying not journalism but business studies and languages, and her writing skills have developed as her passion for her favourite subject – jewellery – has grown. This is why her writing comes straight from the heart rather than the pages of a book. Daughter of an entrepreneur mother, Katerina exchanged her retail management job for jewellery writing in 2013 and hasn’t looked back since.
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