What drew me to the Diorama Forêt Enchantée parure during Haute Couture Week in Paris wasn't simply its exceptional craftsmanship and creativity but also the emotions it conjured within me upon first glance. The necklace evokes a sense of timeless magic, depicting a tableau of nature's finest, including charming rabbits, graceful deer, elegant swans and playful squirrels, all rendered in a way that makes each creature come alive. It's reminiscent of childhood stories where animals speak and trees whisper secrets on the wind. Each element is meticulously detailed to transport the viewer back to these more whimsical and innocent days.
Diorama Foret Enchantée Inspiration
Why did Dior's Creative Director Victoire de Castellane choose this theme, you might ask? She drew inspiration from Toile de Jouy—a traditional decorative pattern featuring repeating pastoral motifs in a single colour. It holds a special place in Dior's history, having adorned the walls, counters, and canopy of Christian Dior's original boutique on 30 Avenue de Montaigne in 1947. The new collection channels this nostalgic essence, offering miniature jewelled 'frescoes' that also celebrate the favoured blooms of Monsieur Dior and his garden in Milly-la-Forêt, northern France.
Nature-Inspired Textured Gold
Now, let's explore the intricacies of this necklace and its construction. The branches and leaves were sculpted in yellow gold, then hammered and pricked to achieve the resemblance to the patterns we see on tree trunks and foliage. This technique, originally developed for the Rose Dior collection, is used to great effect here, both to enhance the storytelling but also to add texture and dimension. The golden surface also contrasts beautifully with the faceted gemstones, including tsavorite garnets, emeralds, tiny pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds shaped as marquises, ovals and rounds. All of them meet at the focal point of the design - a gorgeous Colombian emerald weighing over 16 carats.
Chrysoprase and the Glyptic Arts
This important emerald certainly adds to the uniqueness of the design; however, what I find truly remarkable is the use of chrysoprase, with its milky-green hue adding a wonderfully unexpected twist. It's unusual to see this glyptic element featured in Dior Joaillerie High Jewellery, and the presence of sculpted material here strikes a nostalgic chord while also celebrating the thrill of experimentation in jewellery design. Carvings are also presented in a matching ring featuring a serene, sleeping fawn and a pair of earrings adorned with an animated squirrel and a rabbit; each placed next to a vibrant emerald as if to highlight the contrast between a transparent and an opaque gem. All elements of the set, including the carvings, were crafted in-house at the Maison's own jewellery atelier located one floor above the Avenue Montaigne boutique.
Considered Craftsmanship
Although I saw many outstanding creations during Paris Haute Couture Week, I have to say that this piece impressed me with its level of craftsmanship, detail and the myriad techniques it represents, from the glyptic arts to goldsmithing, bas-relief, and micro stone setting. Then there's the perfectly complementary hues of the minerals used throughout, including three shades of green that add depth and dimension. No wonder this suite took over 4,700 hours to create!
A special event took place in Florence earlier this year to present 172 pieces from the Diorama & Diorigaimi High Jewellery collection and we are told more jewels are currently in production. This makes me wonder if it is possible at all that there will be another set, even more beautiful than this one, in this collection. Let's wait and see.
