Jewel of the Month: A Magnificent 300-carat 18th Century Diamond Necklace

In the world of fine jewellery, certain pieces transcend mere beauty—they become living relics imbued with the memories and moments they’ve witnessed. This month’s spotlight shines on one such extraordinary jewel: a rare 18th-century necklace with approximately 300 carats of diamonds. Ahead of its sale by Sotheby’s Geneva, let’s take a more in-depth look at the history of this special creation and the famous women it is connected to…

This jewel feels like a true time traveller—one that has lived many lives, each rich with its own moments and stories. It hasn’t just survived the centuries; it has thrived, maintaining its brilliance and spirit through the relentless passage of time. Imagine the lives it has touched, the hands it has passed through, and the remarkable history it carries, all while being ready for its next adventure in the modern world.

The Jewel’s Journey Through Time

This stunning piece hails from the opulent European courts of the 18th century, most likely crafted in the years leading up to the French Revolution. Its origin is still a bit of a mystery, but what we do know is that it was likely commissioned for someone of considerable stature—perhaps royalty or a high-ranking aristocrat. Some even speculate that the diamonds in this necklace may have once been part of the infamous necklace linked to the ‘Affair of the Diamond Necklace’, a scandal that rocked the French court and contributed to the downfall of King Louis XVI and his wife, Queen Marie Antoinette.

This rare and important diamond jewel is a sublime survivor from the opulent court life of the Georgian era, defined by its unrivalled pomp and splendour; it is arguably one of the most magnificent and intact Georgian jewels in private hands, Andres White Correal, Chairman Jewellery Europe and Middle East, Head of Noble Jewels, Sotheby’s.

In the 20th century, this necklace became part of the distinguished collection of the Marquesses of Anglesey, a prominent Anglo-Welsh family with close ties to the British royal family. In 1937, the Marchioness of Anglesey, Marjorie Paget, wore this sparkling masterpiece to the coronation of King George VI. But what really adds a sense of serendipity is that, years later, her daughter-in-law wore the same necklace for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953. It’s as if the jewel had its own regal path, destined to be part of history over and over again.

A Masterpiece of 18th-Century Craftsmanship

The original creator, an 18th-century artisan, must have seen far beyond the conventions of his time. This necklace is more than a display of wealth; it’s a masterclass in innovative craftsmanship. It features three rows of ‘Old Mine’ brilliant-cut diamonds, each stone weighing between one and one and a half carats. These diamonds likely came from the legendary Golconda mines in India, which are renowned for producing some of the purest and most brilliant gems the world has ever seen.

What’s particularly impressive is the versatility of the piece. It could be worn around the neck, with the diamond tassels hanging loosely or tied in a knot. For a touch of opulence, it could also be sewn onto clothing as an ornamental accent. Though hailing from the 18th century, the necklace exudes remarkable modernity with its clean lines and sophisticated diamond setting. 

The Jewel’s Future: A Return to the Limelight

After spending more than 50 years in a private collection, it will make its much-anticipated debut at Sotheby’s Royal and Noble Jewels auction on November 11 in Geneva, with an auction estimate of US $1,800,000 – 2,800,000. Prior to that, it will embark on a global tour, starting in London and moving through Hong Kong, New York, Singapore, Taipei, and Dubai. It’s as though the jewel is being reintroduced to the world, giving us all a chance to marvel at its remarkable survival story.

The jewel is as relevant, alluring, and appealing today as when it was made over two centuries ago. It is the nec plus ultra of 18th-century jewellery design, Andres White Correal.

There’s something irresistible about following a jewel like this, wondering where it will go next and who will become its new custodian. As someone who loves stories, I can’t help but wonder what will become of it after this sale. Will it return to private hands or perhaps even grace another royal event?

A Legacy That Lives On

This extraordinary necklace has survived centuries of change; how many other jewels like this have withstood the ravages of time? What untold stories might be locked within their gleaming facets? Each stone holds a piece of history, a moment frozen in time—yet here it remains, poised for its next adventure, ready to be cherished once more and to weave new tales in the hands of a discerning collector.