The Gift of Heritage: Antique and Vintage Jewellery for a Truly Unique Christmas

Antique and vintage jewellery has made an extraordinary comeback in recent years. Fuelled by the uniqueness of these jewels from yesteryear, there is an enormous appetite for 20th century jewels crafted in the key periods of jewellery design, from Art Deco pieces, a long-time collectors’ favourite, through to retro, mid-century and modern creations. If you are ready to explore antique creations for the ultimate Christmas surprise, here’s our advice for making the best shopping decisions…

The explosion of online retailers specialising in estate jewellery means that finding an antique gift has never been easier. If you are unsure where to start, head to 1stdibs for inspiration. Founded in 2001, this one-stop marketplace for antique and vintage jewellery caters to every budget and is a great resource for getting to know the styles and designers that came to define the different eras.

High-end independent sellers who specialise in fine antique jewellery include companies like Bentley & Skinner and Hancocks in London, Ronald Abram in Hong Kong and Fred Leighton in New York. They have been regarded as trusted authorities on the subject for half a century or more and are the place to head if you are looking for rare and exceptional period pieces.

Then there are sellers like Erica Weiner in Portland, Oregon, and the newly launched For Future Reference Vintage by Randi Molofsky, who specialise in a particular period or look. Erica Weiner’s eclectic collection is inspired by the secret language of estate jewellery, and its motto is: “The weirder the backstory, the more we love it.” Molofsky, an industry tastemaker and vintage fashion devotee, launched her vintage jewellery brand in 2024. Focussing on unsigned statement pieces from the 1940s-1980s, she has a brilliant eye for fashion-forward pieces.

If you are considering buying an antique or vintage jewel as a gift, it’s important to be clear on the different eras. Vintage commonly refers to any jewel that is 20 years old or more (although purists use the term only for items that are more than 50 years old), while antiques are at least 100 years old. The Victorian era spanned 1839-1901, Art Deco the years 1920 to 1935. Retro is typically used to describe a jewel made in the 1940s, mid-century for 1950s pieces.

Which era is the recipient most drawn to? Do they wear predominant yellow gold? How do they wear their jewellery – for special occasions only or every day, in layers? Do big brands matter to them? These are all questions to ask yourself before beginning browsing. The Art Deco period may have produced some of the finest designs in jewellery history, but if they’re in their 20s, a vintage gold choker is going to be much better suited to their style.

There are many other emblems of love to explore that have been popular through the eras, from a classic heart in the stylish 1981 cuff bracelet by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co., to the white doves in Ronald Abram’s antique Art Deco pendant. One of the most exquisite jewels in our gift guide, it is made by Georges Lenfant, one of the finest goldsmiths of the 20th century. Doves pair for life—the perfect gift for a lifelong partner who appreciates signed period pieces.

Animalia: Wild and Wonderful Gifts

At the beginning of 2024, 1stdibs published its first jewellery report, reflecting what people were looking for most on its site. Searches for serpent jewellery rose by 15% last year—pieces like these signed, mid-century Ilias Lalaounis snake earrings.

There is a wealth of antique gift ideas that recreate the beauty of the animal kingdom in precious materials, including the 1960s-70s enamel tiger stripe clip earrings from David Webb’s award-winning animal Ark series and Dior’s 1990s leopard-print citrine hoop earrings, which tap into the animal print trend that is everywhere this Christmas. And who wouldn’t love to receive a vintage Cartier Panthère Molle pendant necklace as a gift? Created in 1981, the panther is a Cartier icon, and this interpretation is incredibly wearable, presented on the original mixed-metal chain.

Gold Chokers and Collars: Fashion-Forward Gifts

A vintage yellow gold choker or collar necklace is the most fashionable jewel you can gift this Christmas because the 80s, an era of excess, shoulder pads and seriously bold jewellery (think Disney’s Rivals), is back. No jewellery house personified the 80s quite like Bvlgari. Its opulent use of gold was unrivalled, as seen in two gift ideas I have picked out below. A vintage Bvlgari Monete choker, inset with an authentic Roman coin, channels the glamour of an era, while the sculpted geometric links of the 1980 Bulgari Parentesi necklace are maximalist yet very wearable. For something a little more refined, For Future Reference Vintage’s slinky 1980s omega chain necklace will quickly become a keystone piece in their jewellery collection.

All the sellers showcased here have been vetted by us—simply read the caption to find out where to purchase. And, with its transition from curio to collectible, some sellers are even offering curated gift guides of antique and vintage jewellery, just like any other luxury retailer, making the gift-buying process even easier.

Happy shopping and the merriest of Christmases from us all at KaterinaPerez.com!