Rubies Reinvented: From royal gem to daily dose of colour

July 22, 2021

11 min read

Historically, rubies have always been seen as the royal gemstone – a symbol of power and prominence adorning the Tsars of Russia, the Maharajahs of India, and the royal families of Europe. And while rare Burmese ‘pigeon’s blood’ rubies still hold this almost mystical significance in high jewellery, there’s a fresh wave of everyday designs that are placing rubies on the necks and fingers of those royal at heart. Here are a selection of designs to celebrate this most regal and auspicious of gems.

Once you start looking, it is amazing how ubiquitous the simple word ‘ruby’ becomes in poetry, history, myth, and legend. There’s just something about richly saturated shades of red that seems to inspire creatives and included in that group are jewellery designers, past and present. Rubies have for hundreds of years been the pinnacle of luxury, perhaps even more so than diamonds. The most vivid Burmese rubies are truly rare and covetable, with high jewellery brands now turning to new sources in Mozambique, for example, as their source of royal red gems.

Philippe Guilhem Vaya N°1 ring in bronze and gold, set with an oval-shaped ruby

If I had rubies, riches, and crowns, I’d buy the whole world and change things around, Bob Dylan.

Van Cleef & Arpels Folie des Prés Collection ruby and diamond earrings in rose gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Folie des Prés Collection ruby and diamond necklace in rose gold

More recently though, we are seeing a diversification of ruby jewels and finding this scarlet corundum in more wearable, everyday designs that don’t require an equally red carpet to feel at home. Perhaps it is the desire among all women (and men, of course) to feel like royalty in their own lives, even if it’s just for a moment. Take a look at the gallery of pieces I have selected below from across the spectrum of high jewels, designer jewels and pieces that could comfortably be worn every day. What unifies them is the intensity of the red hue, whether it’s a brighter red with hints of pink or a deep burgundy shade that pairs well with rose or yellow gold. I’m sure within this selection you will discover at least one piece that will help you live out your regal fantasies.

Harakh

Ruby and diamond necklace

Chaumet

Soir de Fête ring in 18k white gold, set with a pear-shaped ruby of around 2.50 carats from Mozambique and brilliant cut-diamonds

Vanleles

Enchanted Garden earrings in 18k rose gold and titanium with diamonds and rubies

Ronald Abram

Burmese ruby and diamond bracelet

Buccellati

Cabochon ruby and diamond cocktail ring

Harry Winston

Dancing Flames ring with a cabochon ruby and diamonds

Gubelin

Deep Sea Anemone earrings with diamonds and rubies

Bayco

Ruby and diamond eternity ring

David Morris

Cushion-cut ruby and pear-shaped diamond High Jewellery ring

Bugari

Magnifica High Jewellery necklace with rubies and diamonds

Jacquie Aiche

Precious Crescent Moon necklace with diamonds and rubies in rose gold

Garrard

Albemarle Diamond drop earrings in 18k white gold with detachable ruby drops

Lark & Berry

Flora earrings with diamonds and ruby drops

Cartier

Phaan ring with an 8.20 carat ruby from the Sixième Sens par Cartier High Jewellery collection

<p> Portal Collection Lotus ring in 18k rose, yellow and white gold and black rhodium, set with black diamond pavé, white diamond pavé and a round cut cabochon ruby</p>

Bia Tambelli

Portal Collection Lotus ring in 18k rose, yellow and white gold and black rhodium, set with black diamond pavé, white diamond pavé and a round cut cabochon ruby

Chaumet

Torsade de Chaumet sautoir with diamonds and rubies in 18k white gold

Pragnell

Masterpiece cushion-cut Burmese ruby ring of 3.98 carats in platinum and 18k yellow gold

Bvlgari

Magnifica High Jewellery secret watch with a 6.32 carat ruby cabochon

Misahara

Pink Persuasion ring from the Petal Collection with a cushion-cut ruby in rose gold

Melissa Kaye

Lola Triple ring in 18k rose gold with diamonds and rubies

Picchiotti

L’Anfiteatro ring with an 8.05 carat oval ruby

Ruchi

Enchanted Evening Hyperion bracelet with rubies and diamonds

Stenzhorn

Una ruby ring in 18k white gold

Miseno

Ruby and diamond earrings in 18k yellow gold

Van Cleef & Arpels

Sous les Étoiles High Jewellery collection with rubies, sapphires and diamonds

Pomellato

NUVOLA ring in Fairmined rose gold with an oval-shaped Greenland ruby

Moussaieff

Ruby and white diamond earrings

Robinson Pelham

River Link bracelet set with pink sapphires and rubies in black rhodium and 18k rose gold

Chaumet

Torsade de Chaumet necklace with diamonds and rubies

Boghossian

Kissing High Jewellery ring with a pear-shaped ruby and diamonds

WORDS

Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.

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