Painterly Approach: Brands with Colour in their DNA

July 27, 2021

By Katerina Perez

10 min read

With summer in full swing, I turn my attention to jewellers who create colourful designs to brighten up our days. Some of them make a conscious choice to inject colour into their offering, while for others it’s as natural as breathing.

For this selection of brands, being creative with colour and curating a palette of shades and tones is part of their DNA; an inherent part of the jewellery-making process. Here, I’d like to highlight six brands whose approach to colour I admire, whether they pair contrasting shades, create kaleidoscopic rainbows of gemstones or simply use a single gem to striking effect.

Cobweb cuff by TAYMA Fine Jewellery with Imperial topaz, Paraiba tourmalines, sapphires, moonstones, mandarin garnets and diamonds

href=”https://madlygems.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Madly

Singaporean bespoke jeweller, Madly, exudes joyful energy with its candy store of colourful faceted gemstones and cabochons. As I’ve mentioned in previous articles about Madly, the brand uses a variety of unusual and unique gems, often simultaneously, which is well demonstrated by a piece with colour-changing Alexandrite, hot pink Jedi spinel and a lagoon-blue tourmaline. Madly was founded in 2014 and has swiftly become one-to-watch among those with statement tastes, both in terms of scale and volume as well as saturated hues.

MADLY ring with a 5 carat grey spinel, custom-cut amethyst and two-toned gold

MADLY Fairytale ring with a heart-shaped lavender spinel

MADLY jewellery suite with bi-colour tourmalines, Paraiba tourmalines, pink spinels, lavender tanzanites, aquamarines and morganites

MADLY imperial topaz ring with diamonds and mother of pearl

MADLY men's ring with an unheated tanzanite

Another example of a coloured gemstone and diamond ring creation by Singapore-based brand, MADLY

MADLY tourmaline cocktail ring

MADLY cocktail ring with a pear-shaped Paraiba tourmaline and pink sapphire

href=”https://www.sunitanahata.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Sunita Nahata

Hong Kong based jewellery designer Sunita Nahata has been on my radar for some time and she’s never failed to captivate me with her vibrant pops of colour, served in the form of large cut gemstones like aquamarines and emeralds or amethysts. Her cocktail rings have daring proportions to draw the eye towards coloured gems, while her Floral Fantasy earrings are just one example of shoulder-skimming designs that are feminine and fierce all at the same time. I’ve always enjoyed her use of briolette-cut gemstones and her Happy Moods collection with amethyst, quartz, topaz and onyx.

Sunita Nahata amethyst and citrine cocktail rings

Sunita Nahata Chandelier earrings with briolette-cut coloured gemstones

A model wears London blue topaz and black onyx pieces from the Sunita Nahata Happy Moods collection

Sunita Nahata Queen of Hearts earrings with mint quartz and diamonds in yellow gold

Sunita Nahata Art Deco inspired aquamarine earrings

A selection of large cloured gemstone cocktail rings by Sunita Nahata

A pair of earrings with large faceted gemstones by Sunita Nahata

Sunita Nahata earrings with peach moonstone heart briolette cabochons

href=”https://www.veschetti.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Veschetti

If you’re seeking a combination of colour and texture, then Veschetti’s carved gemstone jewellery suites may be exactly what you’re looking for. The brand is well-known for using hardstones in its distinctively Italian fine jewellery designs, including lapis lazuli links in bold chains; carved emeralds against a backdrop of stark white enamel; and even jade and angel skin coral open beads that are connected together with diamond-studded gold links. Veschetti has long used these materials to give its jewels more character and, dare I say it, more ‘oomph’. When you see them in person and get to try them on, like I have done in the past, you’ll know exactly what that means!

Veschetti Goccia di Mare Blu jewels with lapis lazuli and diamonds

Veschetti Capri collection jewels with coral, jade and diamonds

Veschetti Emozioni ring with a 29 carat heart-shaped tanzanite

Veschetti Fiordaliso suite with Zambian emeralds, opals and diamonds

Veschetti Goccia di Mare Rosa jewels with agate, coral and brilliant cut diamonds

Veschetti Goccia di Mare Rosa necklace with agate, coral and brilliant cut diamonds

Veschetti Lucrezia suite with amethysts, turquoises, skin angel coral and diamonds

Veschetti Medea suite with carved coral, onyx and diamonds

href=”https://taymajewellery.com/home/en/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>TAYMA Fine Jewellery

The first thing you notice about TAYMA Fine Jewellery is its fabulous use of opals. Founder, Tayma Page Allies, who is based in Hong Kong, has designed the one-of-a-kind 10 cm long Aurora Australis earrings that celebrate the brand’s 30th Anniversary with boulder opal ‘slices’ from Australia’s Lightning Ridge. Since 1991, the TAYMA brand has designed one-of-a-kind jewellery highlighting rolling flashes of blues and greens in opals, enhancing the pieces with Paraiba and indicolite tourmalines and diamonds to enhance the beauty of the gem. Page Allies grew up in the Caribbean and Africa which she says shaped her passion for colour and collecting rare coloured gemstones.

A model wears the TAYMA Fine Jewellery opal, Paraiba tourmaline and diamond Flower pendant in 18k yellow gold

A model wears a matching suite by TAYMA Fine Jewellery

A large watermelon tourmaline slice necklace by TAYMA Fine Jewellery

Pearl and coloured gemstone jewellery designs by TAYMA Fine Jewellery

TAYMA Fine Jewellery Aurora Australis earrings with Australian opal slices, diamonds, and Brazilian Paraiba and peacock blue Indicolite tourmalines

TAYMA Fine Jewellery Flower pendants with slices of bi-colour gemstones

TAYMA Fine Jewellery Cobweb cuff with Imperial topaz, Paraiba tourmalines, sapphires, moonstones, mandarin garnets and diamonds

Matching Paraiba tourmalines for a uique necklace creation by TAYMA Fine Jewellery

href=”https://omiprive.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Omi Privé

As with many of its peers in this selection, Omi Privé doesn’t just add gemstones to its designs… it creates around them. Each piece starts with a gem, whether it’s a sapphire, ruby, emerald, aquamarine, garnet, tourmaline, opal, alexandrite, or spinel, and then builds from there. The brand is based in Los Angeles, but its legacy features a long history of gemstone trading and sourcing with roots in Burma (now Myanmar). I can remember speaking to founder Niveet Nagpal and being blown away by a lizard brooch he was wearing, set with rare alexandrites from Tanzania that were left in their natural form.

Omi Privé platinum pendant featuring a 13.34 carat pear-shape sapphire accented by 1.57 carats of round sapphires and diamonds

Omi Privé platinum necklace with 39.26 carats of emerald-cut sapphires, further round sapphires and diamonds

Omi Privé ring in platinum with a 21.19 carat emerald-cut sapphire and 3.04 carats of diamonds

Omi Privé ring in platinum and 18k gold with a 4.38 carat cushion cut peach garnet, surrounded by diamonds

Omi Privé ring in platinum with a 7.15 carat round Paraiba-type tourmaline and diamonds

Omi Privé earrings in platinum with 8.15 carats of moonstones accented by Paraiba-type tourmalines and diamonds

Omi Privé ring in platinum with a 14 carat cushion-cut sapphire with further sapphires and diamonds

Omi Privé ring in platinum with black rhodium set with a 7.38 carat oval moonstone with sapphires and diamonds

href=”http://www.ricardobasta.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Ricardo Basta

Los Angeles is a true destination for luxury jewellery, so it’s no surprise that Ricardo Basta has found its home there. The brand’s eponymous founder and his family specialise in colourful cocktail rings – in almost every shade – using sapphires, emeralds and rubies as well as quartzes, opals, tourmalines, beryls, jade, sunstone and Mandarin garnet. It’s not difficult to imagine the custom creations that emerge from this maker’s bench, especially when browsing its website where rings are ordered by colour in a way that makes every scroll a rainbow experience!

Ricardo Basta sapphire ring with a turquoise and diamond 'jacket'

Ricardo Basta Phoenix necklace with mandarin garnets

Ricardo Basta aquatic aquamarine ring with octopus and starfish details

Ricardo Basta Bee ring with a central heliodor gemstone

Ricardo Basta Grape earrings with more than 50 carats of purple sapphires

Ricardo Basta Flamingo brooch in pink opal and pink sapphire Flamingo brooch decorated with diamonds, demantoid garnets set in 18k gold and platinum

Ricardo Basta brooch with rubies, tsavorites, yellow sapphires and diamonds on coral

I hope you agree with me that colour is a fundamental facet of these designer brands. Can you imagine Madly without its clusters of red, green and blue gems? Or Tayma Fine Jewellery without the colour-play of opals? I hope to never see the day.

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