Honouring Legacy: Tiffany & Co. Celebrates 50 Years of Elsa Peretti

This season, Tiffany & Co. is toasting a significant milestone – the 50th anniversary of its partnership with Elsa Peretti, who stepped through its doors like a breath of fresh air in September 1974. This brilliant Italian designer, philanthropist and former fashion model kickstarted a pivotal return to silver for Tiffany & Co. after a 25-year hiatus. Her innovative designs didn’t merely refresh tastes; they transformed them.

Thanks to her unique vision, Peretti elevated sterling silver to a status of luxury, crafting some of the most coveted pieces in jewellery history. As Anthony Ledru, President and Chief Executive Officer of Tiffany & Co., aptly states: “Peretti was able to create an extraordinary universe of groundbreaking designs that changed the course of Tiffany’s history and continues to resonate to this day.” When she passed away in 2021, Peretti had earned the title of one of the 20th century’s most significant jewellery visionaries.

The collaboration between Tiffany & Co. and Elsa Peretti was a true convergence, where all the right factors combined just at the right time. Peretti’s deep passion for nature and organic forms, paired with her deeply feminine and sensuous side, gave birth to iconic collections that remain timeless. From the figure-hugging curves of the Bone collection—celebrated for its ergonomics —to the smooth, rounded shapes of the Bean collection, Peretti’s designs broke through traditional jewellery conventions. Her influence wasn’t merely aesthetic; it sparked a societal shift, empowering women to buy jewellery for themselves rather than waiting to receive it as a gift. She truly redefined the relationship between women and jewellery.

Peretti believed in the power of minimalism, famously stating: “The essence of good design lies in its ability to complement rather than overpower.” Her creations, defined by clean lines and organic shapes, beautifully harmonise with the body, enhancing rather than overshadowing the wearer. Her time at Tiffany & Co. yielded globally renowned and iconic collections, including Bone, Diamonds by the Yard, Open Heart, Bean, Bottle and Snake, all of which remain as relevant and contemporary today as they were when first introduced. But her impact transcends jewellery, making waves in the broader realms of art and culture. With her unique fusion of scientific curiosity and sculptural vision, Peretti’s iconic designs now grace the prestigious permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the British Museum, and the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.

To celebrate this milestone, Tiffany & Co. will unveil special anniversary creations throughout 2024 and into 2025. The ‘reimagined classics’ will showcase refreshed Bone and Split rings along with refined Bone cuffs embellished with pavé diamonds, rubies, and hand-carved cabochon gemstones. Additionally, look forward to limited-edition Mesh pieces adorned with tanzanites, rubellites, emeralds, and diamonds. I am especially interested in a selection of ‘Fancy Color’ cocktail rings, as well as Open Heart, Starfish, Bean, Scorpion, and Amapola designs that are now available with pavé diamonds.

If you adore the signature sleekness of Elsa Peretti and all that she stood for as an artist, innovator, woman and philanthropist, then these are pieces to add to your collection. We are told that the iconic Snake and High Tide earrings are also getting a stunning revamp, boasting extra-long lengths that are sure to make a statement. 

As Tiffany & Co. commemorates this significant anniversary, the efforts of the House to keep Peretti’s memory and talents alive are a testament to her phenomenal contribution to its continued success. As devoted jewellery fans, we should all seek to immerse ourselves in the legacy of genuine game-changers who transformed jewellery for the better. In the case of Elsa Peretti, I will always think of her golden Bone cuffs as a symbol of womanhood and femininity; if one wants to feel like they can take on the world in true Wonder Woman style, this is a great place to start!

New Elsa Peretti designs and existing pieces are available at select Tiffany & Co. stores globally and on Tiffany.com.