Engagement Ring Trends: What is in fashion for 2020?

January 3, 2020

By Jodie Smith

6 min read

Each year brings new trends in fine jewellery, and the category of engagement rings is no exception. For 2020, designers continue to think outside the box: offsetting diamonds from their conventional central orientation, complementing solitaires with ring jackets, employing rare coloured diamonds, and more complex design styles than ever before.

Trend 1: Ring Jackets

One of the most accessible ways to engage with new trends in engagement jewellery or to update an existing engagement ring is to use ring jackets. Fitting around or surrounding the central ring, jackets add drama to a jewellery look. The website’s Editor in Chief Katerina Perez has a bespoke ring jacket made by A&W Mouzannar of rose gold with a touch of diamonds. Although A&W Mouzannar extensively explored this design direction earlier, you can now find ring jackets at brands like Jessica MacCormack or Calleija. Calleija’s ‘Couture’ collection ‘Lady in Red’ ring features a central 0.54ct Fancy Purplish Red Argyle Tender diamond, accented by Argyle blue and colourless diamonds, and its complementing ring jackets sit atop and underneath the ring. Jessica McCormack has become known for her extravagant ring jackets – specifically branding them ‘Party Jackets’ – for upgrading your look at special occasions. Her selection of diamond halos, or ballerina skirt-style fine jewellery accessories immediately amp up the glamour of simple solitaire rings.

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Lady in Red’ ring with 0.54ct Fancy Purplish Red Argyle Tender diamond, Argyle blue and colourless diamonds, and ring jacket with Argyle pink diamonds - both in platinum and rose gold

Calleija 'Couture' collection ‘Lady in Red’ ring with 0.54ct Fancy Purplish Red Argyle Tender diamond, Argyle blue and colourless diamonds, and ring jacket with Argyle pink diamonds - both in platinum and rose gold

 Jessica McCormack 'New York Party' ring jackets with diamonds

Jessica McCormack 'New York Party' ring jackets with diamonds

 Jessica McCormack 'Diamond Cape' ring jackets with diamonds

Jessica McCormack 'Diamond Cape' ring jackets with diamonds

 AW Mouzannar ring jackets in yellow gold and black enamel

AW Mouzannar ring jackets in yellow gold and black enamel

 AW Mouzannar ring jackets in yellow gold and diamonds

AW Mouzannar ring jackets in yellow gold and diamonds

Trend 2: Offset Diamonds

Traditional engagement ring designs are usually built around a central diamond – whereas 2019 has paved the way for a new bridal jewellery trend for 2020: offset diamonds. The perfect example of this trend can be found in the latest high jewellery collection by NUUN jewellery. The ‘Thahab’ ring features a rose cut diamond, set off-centre on a broad yellow gold shank – defying several engagement ring conventions simultaneously! Solange Azagury-Partridge ‘Bi Di’ ring from the new ‘Tough Love’ collection features two rose cut diamonds set one above another, with the lower diamond placed off to one side – creating a ‘miniature diamond staircase’ effect. Fernando Jorge’s ‘High Brilliant Sequence’ ring is also part of this new engagement ring trend; with gradating brilliant cut diamonds set around the yellow gold shank of an open ring. Jorge is tapping into the tastes of modern brides-to-be: unexpected, futuristic, and completely unique.

NUUN 'Thahab' ring in yellow gold with a rose cut diamond

NUUN 'Thahab' ring in yellow gold with a rose cut diamond

 Fernando Jorge ‘High Brilliant Sequence’ ring

Fernando Jorge ‘High Brilliant Sequence’ ring

 Solange Azagury-Partridge 'Bi Di' ring with rose-cut diamonds

Solange Azagury-Partridge 'Bi Di' ring with rose-cut diamonds

Trend 3: Fancy Colour Diamonds

Rare coloured diamonds such as the pink and yellow stones in Messika Jewellery’s 2019 ‘Private Collection’ are becoming more of a draw for those seeking an engagement ring with investment potential, as well as real bragging rights! Joseph Ramsay is a young designer who has just collaborated with Sothebys’ Diamonds, and in doing so combined his artistic style with the exceptional blue, pink and yellow diamonds which Sotheby’s is able to provide this emerging talent with. Thomas de Montegriffo is a London-based private jeweller who specialises in bridal designs with rare diamonds. He pays special attention to shanks, making them as sophisticated as the diamonds he sources. One such example is the recent ring with a 1.02 ct  internally flawless natural Fancy Intense Pink marquise cut diamond, and a 0.78ct VS2 natural Fancy Intense Blue diamond taking centre stage. The Toi et Moi design also includes pear, marquise and hidden rose cut diamonds, all set in platinum. 

Messika 'Private collection' ring with a pear-shaped pink diamond and colourless diamonds

Messika 'Private collection' ring with a pear-shaped pink diamond and colourless diamonds

 Sotheby's Diamonds ring by Joseph Ramsay with a 3.27 cts Fancy Vivid Blue Internally Flawless diamond

Sotheby's Diamonds ring by Joseph Ramsay with a 3.27 cts Fancy Vivid Blue Internally Flawless diamond

 Sotheby's Diamonds ring by Joseph Ramsay with a 7 cts Fancy intense Purplish Pink Internally Flawless diamond

Sotheby's Diamonds ring by Joseph Ramsay with a 7 cts Fancy intense Purplish Pink Internally Flawless diamond

 Thomas de Montegriffo 'Fleur de Lavande' ring with a fancy intense pink and a fancy intense blue diamonds

Thomas de Montegriffo 'Fleur de Lavande' ring with a fancy intense pink and a fancy intense blue diamonds

Trend 4: Avant-Garde Designs

Some of the most avant-garde engagement ring designs in 2019 came courtesy of Sarah Ho’s ‘Candy’ collection, which features solitaire gemstones and diamonds on highly embellished shanks – faceted metal with enamel and diamond decoration. Another London-based designer who never ceases to amaze is Tomasz Donocik. He is the go-to jeweller for clients seeking alternative engagement rings, like his modern Art Deco designs with custom cut baguette tourmalines and diamonds. Boghossian is a brand which always challenges convention, and its ‘Kissing’ collection rings are no exception. They feature one diamond set above another with no visible metal, making gemstones almost float in the air.

Boghossian 'Kissing' ring with a pink and colourless diamonds

Boghossian 'Kissing' ring with a pink and colourless diamonds

 Boghossian 'Kissing' ring with a fancy yellow portrait diamond set below a colourless diamond

Boghossian 'Kissing' ring with a fancy yellow portrait diamond set below a colourless diamond

 Sarah Ho 'Candy' ring with a saltwater natural pearl

Sarah Ho 'Candy' ring with a saltwater natural pearl

 Sarah Ho 'Candy' ring with a brown diamond

Sarah Ho 'Candy' ring with a brown diamond

 Thomas Donocik bespoke engagement ring with diamond and baguette-cut tourmalines

Thomas Donocik bespoke engagement ring with diamond and baguette-cut tourmalines

Trend 5: Coloured Gemstones

This trend has been going from strength to strength over the years, and will continue through 2020; with different jewellery brands offering their versions of engagement rings with sapphires, rubies and emeralds. The Swiss jeweller Gübelin has a variety of Burmese ruby rings as a part of their ‘Mystical Garden’ and ‘Glowing Fire’ collections, while Fabergé has Mozambique rubies and Zambian emeralds as well as some sapphire rings to offer from their ‘Colour of Love’ line. Need more choice? Garrard’s traditional cluster setting designs might be exactly what you were looking for.

Fabergé engagement rings with a Mozambique ruby and a Zambian emerald

Fabergé engagement rings with a Mozambique ruby and a Zambian emerald

 Fabergé Fluted ring in white gold with a Zambian emerald

Fabergé Fluted ring in white gold with a Zambian emerald

 Fabergé Fluted ring in rose gold with a Mozambique ruby

Fabergé Fluted ring in rose gold with a Mozambique ruby

 The Garrard 1735 Double Cluster engagement ring with an emerald and diamonds

The Garrard 1735 Double Cluster engagement ring with an emerald and diamonds

 The Garrard 1735 Double Cluster engagement ring with a sapphire and diamonds

The Garrard 1735 Double Cluster engagement ring with a sapphire and diamonds

 Gübelin 'Deep Sea' collection ring with 1.98 cts Burmese ruby and diamonds

Gübelin 'Deep Sea' collection ring with 1.98 cts Burmese ruby and diamonds

 Gübelin 'Glowing Fire' collection ring with 3.01 ct Burmese ruby and diamonds

Gübelin 'Glowing Fire' collection ring with 3.01 ct Burmese ruby and diamonds

The five trends highlighted above are the key one to rule the jewellery industry next year. Saying that, some jewellers have already started experimenting by showcasing multiple trends: like the offset rare pink diamonds at Messika, and the combination of rare Argyle diamonds with ring jackets at Calleija. Watch this space for more designers creating engagement rings with these elements throughout 2020!

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