Empowered Pearls: Why do inspirational women choose pearls?

March 8, 2021

By Katerina Perez

8 min read

The Birth of Venus, perhaps one of the most famous paintings of all time, shows the goddess emerging from an oyster shell. The unspoken connection between women and pearls – symbols of natural beauty – can be traced further than Botticelli’s 15th century masterpiece to the likes of Cleopatra and the enduring legend of her pearl earring, dissolved in vinegar, to prove a point to Marc Anthony. In celebration of International Women’s Day, we consider why pearls have long been connected to powerful women, from royalty to political heroines.

Consider that most famous painting of Queen Elizabeth I – The Armada Portrait – circa 1588 by George Gower. At the peak of her majesty and military success, Elizabeth is pictured covered in pearls, sewn into her dress, looped around her neck and pinned in her hair. Just shy of one hundred years later, in 1665, Johannes Vermeer painted his now iconic Girl with a Pearl Earring, cementing this biogenic treasure as a star in its own right.

The Armada Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, wearing a dress embroidered with pearls, painted by George Gower in 1588

The Armada Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, wearing a dress embroidered with pearls, painted by George Gower in 1588

 Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany's in the character's signature pearls

Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany's in the character's signature pearls

 Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel wearing her signature pearl jewellery pieces

Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel wearing her signature pearl jewellery pieces

 Former First Lady of the United States, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, wearing an elegant double strand of pearls

Former First Lady of the United States, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, wearing an elegant double strand of pearls

 Actress and inventor, Heddy Lamarr, wearing a classic layered pearl necklace

Actress and inventor, Heddy Lamarr, wearing a classic layered pearl necklace

Spotlight on famous females of the last two centuries – Audrey Hepburn, Coco Chanel, Jackie Kennedy, Michelle Obama, Kamala Harris – and it’s clear pearls haven’t lost their charm or powerful significance. Take, for example, the actress Hedy Lamarr, born in 1914, who balanced a career during the Golden Age of Hollywood with a keen scientific mind and passion for invention. Don’t be fooled by the gentility of her pearls, because here is a woman who co-invented an early version of frequency-hopping spread spectrum communication for torpedo guidance at the start of World War II and improved aircraft aerodynamics with Howard Hughes. Pearls may be delicate and feminine, but they don’t detract from intellect, power or purpose.

Former First Lady of the United States, Michelle Obama, wearing a pearl necklace for an official portrait

Former First Lady of the United States, Michelle Obama, wearing a pearl necklace for an official portrait

For International Women’s Day, we’re navigating the ancient link between pearls and power and asking why women with limitless resources, money, access, and style choose pearls time-and-time again. What is it about these spheres of nacre that are so enchanting?

Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris, was sworn into office wearing a pearl necklace by Wilfredo Rosado

Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris, was sworn into office wearing a pearl necklace by Wilfredo Rosado

 Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris, wears pearls as a symbol of her sorority, Aplha Kappa Alpha

Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris, wears pearls as a symbol of her sorority, Aplha Kappa Alpha

 Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris, wearing her signtaure pearls for an official portrait

Vice President of the United States, Kamala Harris, wearing her signtaure pearls for an official portrait

In January 2021, Kamala Harris became the 49th Vice President of the United States, making history as the first female VP, the highest-ranking female official in U.S history and the first African and Asian American VP. She did this all while wearing her signature pearls that she’s rarely seen without. Pearls aren’t just the embodiment of sophisticated elegance for Vice President Harris, they’re also a symbol of her sorority – Alpha Kappa Alpha (whose founders were known as the ‘Twenty Pearls’) – and the connection she shares with her sorority sisters. Remembering Botticelli’s Birth of Venus for a second, it could be said that pearls represent womanhood; for Vice President Harris they certainly represent the bonds of friendship and sisterhood conceived during her time at university. For her inauguration, she chose a necklace by Wilfredo Rosado, featuring Australian South Sea pearls and white diamonds in 18k yellow gold.

It is truly an honour and a dream come true for me to be able to create jewellery for Kamala Harris and for such an important moment in history. She embodies the diversity and spirit of this country and I am so proud of her progress. Pearls are an obsession for me and I’m always striving to find new ways of working with them. With this collection we are defining a new language for pearls, bringing a perennial favourite into the future and shattering the norms of jewellery for both women and men. – Wilfredo Rosado

Katerina holds an incredible baroque pearl necklace with diamonds

Katerina holds an incredible baroque pearl necklace with diamonds

The Vice President isn’t the only female powerhouse to gravitate towards pearls. Royalty, politicians and businesswomen throughout history have adopted this jewel as a signature style or ‘uniform’ of choice. We asked Peggy Grosz, Senior Vice President of Assael for her thoughts on the connection between power and pearls. She says: “There is simply no other gem that allows a woman to be both powerful and graceful; it’s a particularly feminine way to convey power. Pearls are tastefully non-bling with a beautiful, soft glow – a perfect expression of female strength.”

Indra Nooyi, the former CEO of PepsiCo., wearing her signature pearl jewellery

Indra Nooyi, the former CEO of PepsiCo., wearing her signature pearl jewellery

 Indra Nooyi was often seen at public events wearing single and double strand pearl necklaces

Indra Nooyi was often seen at public events wearing single and double strand pearl necklaces

Indra Nooyi, the recently retired CEO of PepsiCo, grew up in India and once commented that she never dreamed of leading such a huge company. She is another example of an inspirational woman, with an incredible career trajectory, who is rarely seen without her signature power pearls. And let’s not forget Queen Elizabeth II, obviously one of the most influential women in the Western world, and her three-stand pearl necklaces that have long been part of her royal wardrobe for official engagements. King George V, the Queen’s father, is said to have gifted a young Princess Elizabeth her first pearl necklace – a piece she adored so much she had a replica made some years later. Another addition to the Queen’s pearl repertoire was gifted by the Emir of Qatar in 1953.

Queen Elizabeth II wearing a pearl necklace and elaborate pearl brooch at an official engagement

Queen Elizabeth II wearing a pearl necklace and elaborate pearl brooch at an official engagement

As you have probably noticed, pearls appear to be a classic choice for First Ladies of the United States and those prospective First Ladies on the campaign trail. The proliferation of pearls can be traced like a thread through history, right back to Martha Washington (1731-1802) and her ornate Dove brooch and pearl strand necklace. Flashing forward to modern times, and we have iconic First Ladies like Jackie Kennedy, Hilary Clinton, Barbara Bush and Michelle Obama all wearing pearls. Perhaps the link between pearls and power is that they instil confidence, giving their wearer a jolt of determination and poise? Or maybe they are a symbol of womanly strength needed when the scrutiny of the press descends on women in high-ranking positions.

The pearl dove brooch worn by Martha Washington, the wife of George Washington, the first President of the United States

The pearl dove brooch worn by Martha Washington, the wife of George Washington, the first President of the United States

 A double strand baroque pearl necklace by Assael

A double strand baroque pearl necklace by Assael

 A three-strand necklace of Akoya pearls with diamonds by Assael

A three-strand necklace of Akoya pearls with diamonds by Assael

 A pearl and yellow gold necklace by Wilfredo Rosado

A pearl and yellow gold necklace by Wilfredo Rosado

 David Morris Purity necklace with 91 carats of Akoya pearls and 13 carats of round-cut white diamonds, set in 18ct white gold

David Morris Purity necklace with 91 carats of Akoya pearls and 13 carats of round-cut white diamonds, set in 18ct white gold

 David Morris Two Seas necklace with 71 carats of natural black pearls, 46 carats of natural white pearls, natural coloured pearls, pink diamonds and white diamonds

David Morris Two Seas necklace with 71 carats of natural black pearls, 46 carats of natural white pearls, natural coloured pearls, pink diamonds and white diamonds

 A trillion-cut aquamarine and white pearl necklace by Assael

A trillion-cut aquamarine and white pearl necklace by Assael

 Van Cleef & Arpels Helios transformable necklace with 50.38 carats of yellow sapphire, pearls and diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels Helios transformable necklace with 50.38 carats of yellow sapphire, pearls and diamonds

There could be a simpler answer: pearls are versatile, adaptable and prone to reinvention. Consider the spectrum of a Van Cleef & Arpels sautoir tassel, the pillowy volumes of a Melanie Georgacopoulos creation, or the diamond-set pearls presented by Wilfredo Rosado. In the spirit of International Women’s Day 2021, Bonhams has gathered a selection of pearl jewellery pieces for a dedicated sale, titled ‘Powerful & Pretty’. The 60 lots reflect some of the prevailing trends and names in pearls across the 20th and 21st centuries, suitable for both black tie and daily wear. Emily Waterfall, head of jewellery at Bonhams Los Angeles, says: “Pearls have been valued for millennia for their beauty and lustre, but also for the fantastic stories associated with the gem. They are symbols of Aphrodite, Eve, and Cleopatra. Historically, they were dangerous to acquire, needing to be brought up by hand from the depth of the sea. Both rare and costly, only the wealthiest royalty had access to pearls until the 20th century.”

A South sea pearl necklace accented with gem-set beads as sold by Bonhams auction house in March 2021

A South sea pearl necklace accented with gem-set beads as sold by Bonhams auction house in March 2021

 South Sea pearl necklace with pavé gemstone-set balls in 18k white gold auctioned by Bonhams

South Sea pearl necklace with pavé gemstone-set balls in 18k white gold auctioned by Bonhams

 Cultured pearl bracelet with diamonds in platinum and 14k white gold, auctioned by Bonhams

Cultured pearl bracelet with diamonds in platinum and 14k white gold, auctioned by Bonhams

 Mabe white pearl, blue pave diamond and 18k yellow gold earrings, auctioned by Bonhams

Mabe white pearl, blue pave diamond and 18k yellow gold earrings, auctioned by Bonhams

 A multi-strand white pearl necklace with a red tourmaline cabochon and diamonds in gold, auctioned by Bonhams

A multi-strand white pearl necklace with a red tourmaline cabochon and diamonds in gold, auctioned by Bonhams

 A pair of cultured pearl and diamond pendant earrings in 18k rose gold, auctioned by Bonhams

A pair of cultured pearl and diamond pendant earrings in 18k rose gold, auctioned by Bonhams

 A South Sea pearl necklace with white diamonds set in white gold, auctioned by Bonhams

A South Sea pearl necklace with white diamonds set in white gold, auctioned by Bonhams

 An 18k bi-colour cultured pearl and gem-set diamond halo ring auctioned by Bonhams

An 18k bi-colour cultured pearl and gem-set diamond halo ring auctioned by Bonhams

 An 18k white gold, cultured pearl and diamond necklace auctioned by Bonhams

An 18k white gold, cultured pearl and diamond necklace auctioned by Bonhams

Rosado says: “It is truly an honour and a dream come true for me to be able to create jewellery for Kamala Harris and for such an important moment in history. She embodies the diversity and spirit of this country and I am so proud of her progress. Pearls are an obsession for me and I’m always striving to find new ways of working with them. With this collection we are defining a new language for pearls, bringing a perennial favourite into the future and shattering the norms of jewellery for both women and men.”So, what is the reason for the powerful positioning of pearls? If we had to give our opinion, it’s the fact that pearls are everything at once: historic and contemporary, luxurious and understated, beautiful and demure, timeless and versatile, enriched with stories and a blank canvas. The multiplicity of pearls is as distinguished as womanhood itself.

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