India’a Finest Jewellers: Custodians of a Centuries-Old Tradition
For years, I have been observing jewellery making in India, regularly visiting Mumbai, Delhi and Jaipur to learn about the craft firsthand. As in every country, there are a variety of styles and levels of expertise, but I am always pulled to those Indian jewellers who demonstrate genuine artistry and individuality through their work.
As a curator, commentator and tastemaker, my eye is forever drawn to the rare alchemy of skill, vision and creative courage that defines a true designer. India, a land whose soul is entwined with ornamentation, is a wellspring of such talent. It is home to extraordinary jewellers whose mastery of craftsmanship, material and narrative is known within discerning circles, yet whose names, I feel, are just as deserving of a global stage. So, when Gunjan Jain and Business of Jewellery suggested collaborating on an editorial devoted to the best Indian jewellers, I knew this was my opportunity to shine a spotlight on the houses, designers and brands that continue to astound me with their talent.
Defined by clean lines, precise detailing and graceful proportions, Katerina wears striking ruby and diamond creations by Delhi-based Hazoorilal Legacy Jewellers
Treat this article as my personal invitation to look closer at a curated mix of 11 leading lights chosen not merely for their technical excellence, but for their distinctive voices. They each possess the rare ability to reinterpret the country’s rich jewellery heritage through a modern lens, whether they are sharing collections with the world or creating solely within the boundaries of India.
There persists a notion that Indian jewellery design is bound by tradition, with its expressions being somewhat predictable. Let this collection of designer brands shatter than illusion. Here, you will witness how the sacred arts of enamel, unconventionally cut gems, intricate inlay and the use of coloured stones are being boldly reinterpreted. Featured jewellers are not merely preserving legacy; they are conversing with it, resulting in pieces that feel utterly modern and refined.
Indian jewellery design is not a monolith. It is a dazzling constellation of detail, innovation, and creative confidence. I believe my selection offers a powerful glimpse at how the ancient art of jewellery making is being passionately redefined for our time.
With a presence in Mumbai and Dubai, Hirani is recognised for its mastery of rare natural coloured diamonds
Amrapali Jewels - Heritage, Reimagined
Amrapali has a talent for weaving narrative into its collections, blending a multitude of themes from archaeology, art and history into modern, wearable jewels. Its CEO and Creative Director Tarang Arora has a boldness that I really appreciate, leading to pieces that confidently push creative boundaries while respecting ancient techniques such as hand texturing and Kundan. The brand’s pieces feel both historically anchored and effortlessly relevant to contemporary collectors, which is no small feat.
Amrapali has a special place in my heart, largely because I met Tarang more than a decade ago, right at the start of my jewellery writing career. I remember being struck by his own sense of style, the bangles stacked on his wrist, and the story he shared of the company’s founders Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera, who travelled extensively in the late 1970s to understand more about tribal communities and their jewellery traditions. This is what emerges in the brand’s jewellery today – a unique combination of history, decoration and eclecticism.
Amrapali jewellery is a unique combination of history, decoration and eclecticism
Moksh - Fluid Indian Craft
Founded in 2005 by Milan Chokshi, Moksh is known for its refreshingly original interpretations of Mughal-inspired design. These are jewels that retain their ceremonial spirit while being perfectly suited to daily wear and not just saved for special occasions. Behind this aesthetic ease lies a fourth-generation Mumbai family whose roots in diamonds and gemstones date back to 1947. That heritage is evident in Moksh’s rare ability to oversee every stage of creation in-house in Mumbai, from sourcing and recutting stones to design and manufacture, allowing for exceptional precision and oversight.
For me, Moksh shines in its understanding of movement. I have long been mesmerised by the suppleness of its Empress bracelets, which flow like silk across the skin despite being adorned with diamonds, coloured gemstones and pearls. Decades of expertise in recutting diamonds and coloured stones, and the complex channel setting of baguette cut diamonds and emeralds, underpin this apparent effortlessness. The brand’s handling of ultra-fine Japanese Keshi pearls, hand-drilled and silk-strung, further enhances this fabric-like quality. At Moksh, the true luxury lies not in a single hero stone, but in the harmony of countless elements brought together with great skill and care, a philosophy that allows it to adapt to the demands of modern collectors while preserving its distinctly Indian soul.
With a distinctly Indian soul, Moksh’s jewels flow like silk across the skin
Moksh’s jewels are works of art that you will never want to take off
Maesterstrokes by Jewels Emporium - Enamel Reverie
There must be a dialogue between age-old craftsmanship and new-age design, so that the two can work in harmony and not fight against each other in a finished piece. A brand that achieves this perfectly is Maesterstrokes with its innovative use of unconventional materials alongside precious metals and gemstones. A brand by Jaipur-based Jewels Emporium, founded in 1841, Maesterstrokes is now led by Anup Bohra, who works closely with master artisans to preserve heritage methods and channel them into collectible jewels.
I picked Maesterstrokes for its daring creativity, organic jewelled forms and, most importantly, its use of French enamelling techniques, an ancient craft that Jewels Emporium reintroduced to India in 2001. As the first Indian jeweller to fully embrace and master the art of plique-à-jour, champlevé and basse-taille, the brand transforms precious metals into canvases for luminous colour. Whether capturing the delicate translucence of a botanical form or the fluid energy of an abstract motif, Anup Bohra achieves a fusion of European technique and a deeply felt, often lyrical, Indian sensibility.
Maesterstrokes by Jewels Emporium is known for its innovative use of unconventional materials, including French enamelling
Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers - Monumental Mughal Craft
Like so many Indian jewellery brands, family is at the centre of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers. I have always felt that this personal connection – the warm and heartfelt feeling of a business passing from one generation to the next – can be experienced through jewellery. Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas focuses on balance rather than excess, crafting designs that feel expressive without being ostentatious. At the heart of the brand is a deep commitment to preserving traditional jewellery-making, upheld by master artisans in its Jaipur workshop, whose exceptional skill and intuitive craftsmanship bring each creation to life.
What I like about this business is its sense of guardianship. Three generations have committed themselves to Kundan jewellery, inlay work, Mughal patterns and floral motifs, all with a great sense of pride in the finished product. Pieces can take months to complete, so I can imagine the brand’s lifelong artisans entering a kind of meditative state as their hands work instinctively to shape, set and polish to perfection. In this environment, jewellery isn’t simply an art form, it’s a calling.
Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers is deeply committed to preserving traditional jewellery-making skills, upheld by master artisans in its Jaipur workshop
SAVAAB - Sculptural Geometry
Mumbai-based art jeweller SAVAAB is all about intricate designs influenced by Mughal motifs and Indian art. What stands out is the company’s use of handpicked rose-cut, portrait and fancy-shaped diamonds as well as custom-fashioned gemstones which give pieces a modern flair. In my view, SAVAAB brings something more cutting-edge to my selection, showcasing India’s modern dynamism. This bold juxtaposition of raw, organic textures with precise, modern lines creates a powerful aesthetic that speaks directly to international collectors.
What I find inspirational is not just SAVAAB’s jewellery style but also the story of Founder and designer Apurva Kothari, who dreamed of creating his own high jewellery business later in life and saw it through with absolute dedication and passion. With a background in mathematics, business and finance, he started training to become a diamantaire in the early 2000s and later immersed himself in all aspects of the trade before establishing his own business. It is this kind of entrepreneurship, hard work and passion that I so greatly admire.
Mumbai-based SAVAAB's intricate designs are inspired by Mughal motifs and Indian art
Suuraj Popley - Nature Inspired
Jewellery cannot exist without storytelling, it is simply too wrapped up in the emotions of both its designer, maker and the eventual wearer. A brand that appreciates this to its fullest extent is Suuraj Popley with designs that are inspired by nature, travel and personal memories. Guided by a strong family legacy and a commitment to quality, the brand creates feminine pieces with a surprising twist, whether that’s an unusual shape, a bold silhouette or a vibrant palette of minerals. Credit must go to the business’ eponymous founder, who believes in making beautiful jewellery more approachable and aspirational so that it persists for generations to come.
I have added Suuraj Popley to my selection because I believe he is both a refreshing and necessary voice in Indian fine jewellery. I like the fact that he is absolutely focused on quality, consistency, and upholding high standards (something he learned from his father who had a similar sense of dedication and purpose), while also pushing the boundaries of what it means to be an Indian designer through form, shape, style and fabrication. He draws inspiration from the world around him, including delicate flowers, the soft gradients of a sunrise or the fluid forms of ocean waves. This global, nature-led inspiration, realised through impeccable craftsmanship, results in jewellery that feels poetic yet effortlessly cosmopolitan.
Suuraj Popley designs feminine pieces with a surprising twist, whether that’s an unusual shape, a bold silhouette or a vibrant palette of minerals
Suuraj Popley pushes the boundaries of what it means to be an Indian designer through form, shape, style and fabrication
Gyan Jaipur - Indian Tradition, Modern Form
Gyan Jaipur is a daughter company of Gem Plaza and was founded in 2017 by the fourth generation of a jewellery-making family. The brand is firmly rooted in the rich cultural landscape of Jaipur, which is why you will always find a nod to the city, its architecture, art and storytelling in its collections. I first discovered Gyan Jaipur at Couture in Las Vegas and was impressed by its ability to translate traditional Indian themes into jewels with a universal, global appeal. A great example of this is its reversible earrings that introduce more creative freedom and playfulness into women’s jewellery collections.
I see Gyan Jaipur as the ideal example of how the traditions of one culture can be moulded and adapted to suit women all over the world. The brand has a remarkable talent for taking quintessential Indian techniques, like Meenakari (enamelling) or inlay, and interpreting them with a lighter, more graphic European sensibility. The result is jewellery that feels fresh, cool, and incredibly wearable; pieces that whisper of heritage rather than shout it.
Gyan Jaipur is an excellent example of how the traditions of one culture can be moulded and adapted to suit women all over the world
Saboo Jewels - Exceptional Coloured Gem Jewellery
Saboo Jewels is a family-led jewellery house with roots dating back to 1935. Established by Mr. Chand Bihari Saboo in Jaipur as a manufacturing company for rough gemstones and guided by the leadership of successive generations of the Saboo Family, the house has evolved into one of India’s most acclaimed jewellers. The brand excels with coloured gemstones, including antique-cut diamonds, Burmese rubies, sapphires and Colombian emeralds, while also blending Indian ornamentation and antique design elements into its creations. Inspiration comes from multiple sources, such as nature and architecture, but it’s the elegance of its pieces that always stands out to me. For me, Saboo Jewels is the epitome of timeless grace rooted in colour, and the brand’s presence here is essential for any connoisseur of important coloured gemstones. I admire how it channels a deep appreciation for India’s rich artistic heritage, craftsmanship, culture and history (think Mughal arches and floral arabesques), coupled with a passion for reinvention and romance, into a framework that is neither purely vintage nor entirely contemporary. Its jewels appear to exist in a graceful continuum, offering heirloom-quality with a clarity of design that feels both regal and relevant for the global stage.
One of India’s most acclaimed jewellers, Saboo Jewels excels with coloured gemstones, including antique-cut diamonds, Burmese rubies, sapphires and Colombian emeralds
Hazoorilal Legacy - Balance in Brilliance
Delhi-based Hazoorilal Legacy Jewellers was founded by Mr. Hazoorilal Narang and is now led by his son and grandchildren. The brand is known for creating elegant diamond pieces, luscious bridal sets, and traditional gold designs – all balancing heritage elements with modern aesthetics. Defined by clean lines, precise detailing, and graceful proportions, Hazoorilal’s jewellery stands out for its timeless appeal, exceptional finishing, and effortless wearability.
For me, Hazoorilal Legacy represents a masterclass in curated opulence, making it an essential inclusion in this selection. The House demonstrates remarkable architectural discipline, where every gemstone from cascading emeralds and diamonds to commanding rubellites is placed with calculated intention to achieve visual harmony. The result is jewellery that feels powerful yet poised, offering a refined and contemporary interpretation of luxury that resonates with a global audience.
The exquisite creations of Hazoorilal Legacy Jewellers stand out for their timeless appeal, exceptional finishing and effortless wearability
Golubhai Badalia - Diamond Statements
My India’s finest jewellery selection wouldn’t be complete without acknowledging a jeweller that focuses solely on ‘a girl’s best friends’ – diamonds. Golubhai Badalia is a legacy luxury diamond jewellery house based in Kolkata, with roots dating back to 1965 and a diamond heritage spanning five generations. Renowned for its expertise in large diamonds and handcrafted solitaires, the brand is celebrated for exceptional quality and precision. With one of India’s largest solitaire inventories and a strong international presence, Golubhai Badalia stands out for its scale and mastery of fine diamonds.
Like the legendary houses of the West, Golubhai Badalia Diamond understands that ‘more is more’ when executed with flawless precision. The result is bold, architectural designs where magnificent colourless diamonds are the sole, triumphant protagonists. What may appear as a combination of sparkling stones to some becomes a powerful and glamorous masterpiece to others, one that is unapologetically opulent and universally understood.
A legacy luxury diamond jewellery house based in Kolkata, Golubhai Badalia focuses solely on ‘a girl’s best friends’
Magnificent colourless diamonds are the sole, triumphant protagonists in the bold, architectural designs of Golubhai Badalia
Hirani - Chromatic Mastery
Hirani is a family-owned diamond company founded in 1991 by brothers Darshit and Jigar Hirani, following in their father’s footsteps in the industry. Mr Suresh Hirani was a pink diamond specialist, and his company was known as P Hirani (P for ‘pink’). His children went further to enrich the colour palette of the diamonds they use, and now, with its presence in Dubai and Mumbai, the brand is renowned for its exceptional range of rare coloured diamonds, from subtle pastels to deeply saturated hues.
Hirani represents the pinnacle of connoisseurship in collectable diamonds – a niche so vital and exquisite that it simply demands a place in any ‘best jewellers’ selection. By dedicating his artistry to the sunlit glow of a canary yellow, the delicate blush of a pink, the rich warmth of a cognac, or the enigmatic hue of a green diamond, Darshit creates more than jewellery. He crafts singular treasures where minimalist, sculptural settings serve to magnify the unique character of each rare stone, transforming exceptional coloured diamonds into timeless, collectible jewels.
Family-owned Hirani represents the pinnacle of connoisseurship in collectable diamonds
To write about the best Indian jewellers is, in many ways, to write about devotion – to craft, to lineage and to beauty itself. Each of the houses I have chosen carries its own philosophy and aesthetic, yet all are united by an unwavering commitment to excellence. Whether working in enamel or Kundan, sculpting diamonds into architectural statements or coaxing colour from the rarest gemstones, these designers honour tradition while giving it a distinctly contemporary voice.
Indian jewellery today is far more nuanced than many outside the country realise. The names featured here are preserving extraordinary skills, certainly, but they are also advancing the craft in their own distinct ways, building businesses, refining techniques and expanding how Indian jewellery is understood beyond its borders. After years of visiting workshops, meeting families and watching artisans at work, I remain as captivated as ever, and I hope that you, too, are encouraged to look at Indian jewellery with fresh eyes.
WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
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