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Standout Designs: My Most Memorable Jewels of 2022
What a year it has been for high jewellery! There has been plenty to admire, from unusual precious materials to ground-breaking craftsmanship. I’ve gone back through the archives to pick my favourite creations of the last 12 months, including my top three favourite designs that just happen to be brooches. So let’s explore the best High Jewellery of 2022…
Every Haute Couture jewellery collection is special, full of inspired creations and works of art. This year’s collections were particularly exciting on the brooches front, with brands unveiling some truly surprising and moving pins. I’ve always been fascinated with the versatility of the brooch. Within the realm of high jewellery, it was the first to be considered ‘unisex‘, with many male celebrities wearing them on the red carpet. They can also be worn in several ways, both as an accessory to an outfit or as an ornamental hairpiece. It was impossible to choose a single favourite piece from all the fresh launches in 2022, but I have narrowed it down to my top three. You might be surprised to learn that they’re all brooches! When you’ve finished admiring these brooches, scroll down to see a gallery of my favourite jewels of the year… all are special in their own ways and deserve your attention.
Loose gemstones used in the Feng J Blooming Dragonfly Diva brooch
Feng J Blooming Dragonfly Diva brooch
In her latest high jewellery collection displayed at the Fine Arts Paris & La Biennale this November, Chinese jeweller Feng J released another one of her iconic dragonfly designs. The Blooming Dragonfly Diva Brooch is crafted in 18k gold and titanium and set with the designer’s signature double rose-cut gemstones. The dragonfly’s wings unfold in a colourful display of pink sapphires, purple spinel, aquamarine and diamond beads. Feng J has elevated her design techniques to new heights with this piece, as its construction gives a sense of three-dimensional volume like never before. The dynamism of the wings is further enhanced by the sharp difference in proportion to the diminutive head, which is set with a white opal cabochon. The romanticism in this work is classic Feng J, who says: “The Dragonfly is a dancer, a fairy. The elegance and enchanting power it brings me takes up a lot of space in my mind.”
Feng J Blooming Dragonfly Diva brooch is set with the designer's signature rose-cut gemstones
Feng J Blooming Dragonfly Diva brooch is set with the designer's signature rose-cut gemstones
Feng J Blooming Dragonfly Diva brooch is set with the designer's signature rose-cut gemstones
Boucheron Bois Diamant Brooch
Claire Choisne once again had me on the edge of my seat during her Paris Couture July presentation. The adventurous Artistic Director at Boucheron, who is known for using unconventional materials in her high jewellery creations, stunned with her Ailleurs collection. Composed of five worlds inspired by various forms of natural landscapes (from desert to rainforest), each suite tells a story of adventure. However, the chapter I found most intriguing was the Earth Woman ensemble. A celebration of soil, ground and earth, this ochre, brown and clay set is filled with organic shapes and materials. The Diamond Wood Brooch was the most daring and bold piece; a magnetic shoulder brooch made from Santos rosewood, titanium and diamonds in what is fair to describe as a feat of engineering. Each petal on this imaginary flower was scanned before being recreated into its wooden form and set on an open-work gold structure. The rigidity of the petals is counteracted by the vibrating titanium pistils that add delicate movement to the brooch, emphasising its realistic natural form.
Model wearing the full Earth Woman suite from the Carte Blanche Ailleurs High Jewellery collection
Model wearing Boucheron Bois Diamant brooch from the Carte Blanche Ailleurs High Jewellery collection in Palissandre Santos wood, diamond and white gold
Boucheron Bois Diamant brooch from the Carte Blanche Ailleurs High Jewellery collection in Palissandre Santos wood, diamond and white gold
Chopard Red Carpet Collection Rose Brooch
Last but most certainly not least, I would like to bring your attention to Chopard’s Rose brooch from this year’s Red Carpet collection. It’s an annual offering that debuts at the Cannes Film Festival, which the brand has been sponsoring for 25 years. Caroline Scheufele chose this brooch to launch the entire 75-piece-strong collection! Entirely crafted in black and white diamonds, this floral brooch with mobile petals was inspired by a touching scene in Charlie Chaplin’s City of Lights film. Full of spirited emotion and beauty, Chopard brand ambassador Julia Roberts wore it on her lapel at the opening ball of the Festival. It’s an ode to the artistry of cinema, fine jewellery and the parallels between both.
Making of Chopard Rose Brooch from the Red Carpet Collection
Original sketch of the Rose brooch from the Red Carpet Collection
Chopard Rose Brooch from the Red Carpet Collection in white gold, white and black diamonds
Actress Julia Roberts wearing the Rose Brooch alongside Chopard Artistic Director and c-president Caroline Scheufele
As you can see, what these pieces have most in common is that they are technically complex in design whilst also being effortlessly beautiful and wearable. I truly admire this in high jewellery creations, as achieving both is no easy feat. Below are some other awe-inspiring, spectacular, and incredible pieces that will hopefully take your breath away as they did mine.
Boucheron •
Boucheron •
Oursin Diamant High Jewellery necklace from the Ailleurs High Jewellery collection in pearl, mother of pearl, diamond, silver and white gold
Anna Hu •
Anna Hu •
Enchanted Lily brooch in titanium, yellow gold, a oval rubellite of 265.9-cts, diamond, ruby, spinel and lacquer
Pomellato •
Pomellato •
Pomellato Velvet Tie Chain necklace from the La Gioia di Pomellato High Jewellery collection in rose gold, diamond, jet and red garnet
Bulgari •
Bulgari •
Bulgari High Jewellery necklace in white gold, coloured gemstones and diamond
Lydia Courteille •
Lydia Courteille •
Earrings from the Indian Song High Jewellery collection in yellow gold, rubellite, ruby and sandal wood
Cindy Chao •
Cindy Chao •
Gentlewoman Ribbon High Jewellery Cuff from the 2022 Black Label Masterpiece VII High Jewellery collection in white, yellow and rose gold, white diamond, yellow diamond, brownish yellow diamond, pink diamond, sapphire, rhodolite and purple garnet
Cartier •
Cartier •
Elephant High Jewellery brooch from the Beautés du Monde High Jewellery collection in petrified magnolia wood, pink sapphire and diamond
Chanel •
Chanel •
White gold, pearl, opal and diamond ring
Chaumet •
Chaumet •
Chant de Sirènes High Jewellery earrings from the Ondes et Merveilles High Jewellery collection in white gold, Paraiba tourmaline, grey Tahitian pearl and diamond
Chaumet •
Chaumet •
Chasse aux Trésors High Jewellery ring from the Ondes et Merveilles High Jewellery collection in white gold, titanium, chrysoprase, tsavorite garnet, mandarin garnet, purple sapphire, emerald and diamond
Chaumet •
Chaumet •
Chasse aux Trésors High Jewellery earrings from the Ondes et Merveilles High Jewellery collection in white and pink gold, pink tourmaline, angel skin coral pearl, tanzanite, diamond, Padparadscha and purple sapphire
Boucheron •
Boucheron •
Feuillage Diamant cuff from the Ailleurs High Jewellery collection with a tourmaline of 37,67-cts, diamond, aluminium and white gold
Chanel •
Chanel •
Comète Infinie ring from the 1932 High Jewellery collection in white gold, white diamond and yellow diamond
David Morris •
David Morris •
Electra ring from the 60th Anniversary High Jewellery collection set with a 6.75-ct cushion cut Paraiba tourmaline, turquoise and diamonds set in white gold
David Morris •
David Morris •
Ribbon High Jewellery necklace from the 60th Anniversary High Jewellery collection set with a 77.57-ct Australian black opal, diamond, pink and blue spinel, a 7.68-ct pear shaped garnet and Paraiba tourmaline
De Beers •
De Beers •
Ascending Shadows Light Green cocktail ring from the Alchemist of Light High Jewellery collection in white gold, rose gold, titanium, aluminium, orange-brown diamond, fancy yellowish green diamond and white diamond
De Beers •
De Beers •
Frozen Capture Bracelet from the Alchemist of Light High Jewellery collection in white gold, Brazilian rock crystal and diamond
Harry Winston •
Harry Winston •
Amalfi Coast earrings from the Majestic Escapes High Jewellery collection in white gold, turquoise, rubellite and diamond
Messika •
Messika •
AKH-BA-KA asymmetrical earrings from the Beyond the Light High Jewellery collection in white gold and diamond
Mikimoto •
Mikimoto •
America Red-Eye Tree Frog High Jewellery brooch from the Wild & Wonderful High Jewellery collection in white, pink and green gold, garnet, tourmaline, spinel, ruby, sapphire, peridot, onyx and diamond
De Beers •
De Beers •
Ascending Shadows necklace from the Alchemist of Light High Jewellery collection in white gold, titanium, aluminium and diamond featuring a 3.41-ct pear-shaped fancy light grey diamond
Messika •
Messika •
Golden Shield Bijou de Lèvre from the Beyond the Light High Jewellery collection in yellow gold and diamond
Lydia Courteille •
Lydia Courteille •
Peacock High Jewellery necklace from the Indian Song High Jewellery collection in yellow gold, tanzanite, opal, emerald, apatite, sapphire, tourmaline, tsavorite and diamond
Mikimoto •
Mikimoto •
Africa High Jewellery necklace from the Wild and Wonderful High Jewellery collection in white gold, black South Sea cultured pearl, Akoya cultured pearl, alexandrite, spinel and diamond
Boucheron •
Boucheron •
Toucan High Jewellery bracelet from the Ailleurs High Jewellery collection in titanium, citrine, rubellite and white and black spinel
Boucheron •
Boucheron •
Serpent High Jewellery bracelet from the Ailleurs High Jewellery collection in tsavorite, onyx, lacquer and titanium
De Beers •
De Beers •
Ascending Shadows headband from the Alchemist of Light High Jewellery collection in white gold, titanium, aluminium and diamond
Pomellato •
Pomellato •
Flower Power High Jewellery ring from the La Gioia di Pomellato High Jewellery collection in rose gold, grey sapphire, diamond and blue and grey spinel
Piaget •
Piaget •
Precious Adornment High Jewellery ring from the Solstice High Jewellery collection in white gold, emerald and diamond
Van Cleef & Arpels •
Van Cleef & Arpels •
Volutes Mystérieuses High Jewellery necklace from the Legend of Diamonds Chapter I High Jewellery collection in white gold, rose gold, one DFL Type 2A oval diamonds and rubies
Chopard •
Chopard •
Butterfly High Jewellery asymmetric earrings from the Chopard X Mariah Carey collection in white gold and diamonds
Piaget •
Piaget •
Lady Pink High Jewellery ring from the Solstice Chapter Two High Jewellery collection in yellow gold, diamond and coloured gemstones
De Beers •
De Beers •
Optical Wonder drop earrings from the Alchemist of Light High Jewellery collection in yellow gold, titanium, fancy deep greenish yellow diamond, and fancy deep yellowish green diamond
WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
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