Fabric Finery: Presenting the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
For its latest high jewellery collection, French fashion house Chanel has transformed the textural checks of traditional tweed fabrics into chessboard patterns of precious gems. Its aptly named Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery offering features five chapters, each one dedicated to a ‘weave’ and adorned with iconic symbols of the House, including camellia blooms, ribbons and comets. Let’s explore these jewellery stories and see what pieces the brand has in store for us…
We know that Gabrielle Chanel had a passion for Venice (note the Chanel Escale à Venise High jewellery collection of 2021), but her interest in Scotland’s rolling hills and valleys is perhaps a lesser-known inspiration. During an affair with the Duke of Westminster in the 1920s, Chanel spent her time as an aristocrat, encountering green landscapes and Scottish tweeds in abundance. She interpreted these traditional fabrics in her collections, and today, tweed is one of the fashion giant’s most significant materials.
Tweed concept artwork for the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection of 2023
Tweed owes its name to the River Tweed in the Scottish Borders. Gabrielle Chanel took it and made it her own, gifting its comfort to her elegant and sporty female clients. One of the most essential features in the Chanel style vocabulary was born.
Chanel Tweed Icône Étoile ring with a cushion-cut sapphire of 8.36 carats, plus further colourless diamonds, sapphires and onyx in yellow gold, from the Tweed Étoile set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Icône Ruban ring with one brilliant-cut diamond of 2.01 carats, plus further diamonds and cultured pearls in white gold, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Icône Lion ring with an oval-cut red spinel of 13.95 carats, plus diamonds, rubies, red spinel, yellow sapphires and garnets in yellow gold, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Icône ring with an emerald-cut yellow diamond of 5.50 carats, plus further colourless and yellow diamonds in yellow gold, from the Tweed Soleil set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Icône Camélia ring with an oval-cut diamond of 2.03 carats, plus further colourless diamonds and pink sapphires in pink gold, from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
In 2020, tweed made its first foray into the world of Chanel jewellery thanks to a 45-piece collection. Today, the concept is back with 63 new High Jewellery pieces dedicated to the “magic of tweed” and set with diamonds and coloured gemstones. Of course, we have Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, to thank for this! His creations interpret hand-crafted supple yarns, embroidery, fringing and checkerboard patterns and play on the idea of monochromatic and polychromatic weaves to create the impression of depth and movement. Elsewhere, there are lace-like openwork structures and flashes of iconic Chanel motifs: the lion’s head, camellia flowers, white ribbons, fiery comments and vibrant yellow suns.
For this new High Jewellery collection dedicated to Tweed, I wanted to go further in the interpretation by creating a veritable fabric of precious stones that is light and supple, Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio.
Tweed de Chanel is split into five chapters, each dedicated to its own ‘weave’: Soleil, Lion, Étoile, Ruban and Camélia. Among them are plastrons, necklaces, sautoirs, bracelets, brooches, rings and earrings in named sets. There’s also a stand-out necklace – the Tweed Royal – that is explained below. Before I dive into each chapter, the craftsmanship on display here is worth mentioning. Miniature and minuscule hinges, rings and articulations in gold and platinum threads add suppleness to the materials, allowing them to behave more like fabrics. The brand explains: “The interweaving of the gold, pearls and precious stones, the variety in the sizes of the stones, and the play of the openwork together re-create the fleecy, textured thickness of tweed. Its comfort and softness, meanwhile, are echoed in the work carried out specifically on the back of each piece.”
Actress Keira Knightley in the Chanel Tweed Mademoiselle necklace in white gold and diamonds, including an oval-cut diamond of 5.01 carats, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection.
Tweed Soleil
The sun has long been a motif in the Chanel universe, and the presence of vibrant yellow gemstones is almost to be expected in its high jewels. Here, we see the collision of tweed and “Byzantine and Venetian magnificence” in three sets: Tweed Cambon, Tweed Byzance, and Tweet Soliare. There’s also a Tweed Icône ring of note (a signature piece of each set in the Tweed de Chanel collection). A pair of Cambon earrings combine building blocks of diamonds, set in yellow gold, with sun rays of diamonds in platinum, leading to kite-shaped rock crystal drops. In Tweed Byzance, we find a brooch, ring, bracelet and earrings with intoxicating, mixed-cut yellow beryls and bezel-set round brilliant-cut diamonds in woven patterns. Another highlight in Tweed Solaire is a brilliant Imperial topaz choker and matching ring with further yellow beryls and diamonds.
Chanel Tweed Cambon earrings with brilliant-cut diamonds, yellow diamonds and rock crystal in white and yellow gold from the Tweed Soleil set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Cambon ring with a 3.14-carat oval-cut diamond, and brilliant-cut white and yellow diamonds in yellow and white gold from the Tweed Soleil set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Byzance earrings with two pear-shaped diamonds of one-carat each, further diamonds and beryls in yellow gold, from the Tweed Soleil set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Byzance bracelet with a cushion-cut diamond of 2.07 carats (flawless D-colour, Type IIa), diamonds and beryls in yellow gold, from the Tweed Soleil set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Byzance brooch with a cushion-cut diamond of 2.12 carats (internally flawless, D-colour), further diamonds and beryls in yellow gold, from the Tweed Soleil set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Byzance ring with a featured cushion-cut diamond, further diamonds and beryls in yellow gold, from the Tweed Soleil set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Byzance ring with a 2.18-carat cushion-cut diamond, further diamonds and beryls in yellow gold, from the Tweed Soleil set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Solaire ring with a 13.35-carat marquise-cut Imperial topaz, further diamonds, topazes and beryls in yellow gold, from the Tweed Soleil set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Concept artwork of the Chanel Tweed Royal necklace from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
An alternative view of the Chanel Tweed Royal necklace without its detachable lion motif and pear-shaped diamond drop, featuring diamonds and rubies in yellow gold, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Royal bracelet (which can be split into two parts) with diamonds and rubies in yellow and white gold, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Royal ring with an oval-cut ruby of 5.02-carats, further diamonds and rubies in yellow gold, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Royal earrings with six cushion-cut rubies of 6.29 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds in yellow gold, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Gabrielle necklace with a 12.64-carat pear-shaped spessartite garnet, plus diamonds, yellow sapphires and further spessartite garnets in yellow gold and platinum, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Gabrielle ring with an oval-cut 10.48-carat spessartite garnet, plus diamonds, yellow sapphires and further spessartite garnets in yellow gold and platinum, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Lion brooch with an oval-cut red spinel of 9.13-carats, diamonds, rubies, spinels and spessartite garnets in white and yellow gold, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Lion earrings with two marquise-cut rubies of 3.05 and 3.00-carats, plus diamonds, rubies, yellow sapphires and spessartite garnets in white and yellow gold, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Lion ring with a 3.99-carat marquise-cut ruby, plus diamonds, rubies, yellow sapphires and spessartite garnets in yellow gold, from the Tweed Lion set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Astral ring with an oval-cut sapphire of 23.84-carats, diamonds, yellow diamonds, sapphires and onyx in yellow and white gold, from the Tweed Étoile set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Étoilé necklace with a 14.71-carat cushion-cut yellow sapphire, diamonds, further sapphires, lapis lazuli and onyx in white and yellow gold, from the Tweed Étoile set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Étoilé ring with a 17.67-carat cushion-cut yellow sapphire, diamonds, further sapphires, lapis lazuli and onyx in white and yellow gold, from the Tweed Étoile set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Étoilé bracelet with a 9.16-carat cushion-cut yellow sapphire, diamonds, further sapphires, lapis lazuli and onyx in white and yellow gold, from the Tweed Étoile set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Étoilé earrings with two cushion-cut yellow sapphires of 8.35 and 8.15-carats, plus diamonds further sapphires, lapis lazuli and onyx in white and yellow gold, from the Tweed Étoile set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Céleste necklace with diamonds, sapphires and onyx in white and yellow gold, from the Tweed Étoile set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Pastel necklace with an oval-cut diamond of 3.10-carats (internally flawless, D-colour, Type IIa), plus further diamonds and cultured pearls in white gold, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Pastel bracelet with an oval-cut diamond of 2.02-carats (internally flawless, D-colour, Type IIa) plus further diamonds and cultured pearls in white gold, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Pastel ring with an oval-cut diamond of 3.04-carats (internally flawless, D-colour, Type IIa) plus further diamonds and cultured pearls in white gold, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Ruban bracelet with diamonds in white gold from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Ruban necklace with a pear-shaped diamond drop and further round brilliant-cut diamonds in white gold, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Ruban earrings set with colourless diamonds from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Ruban ring with a pear-shaped diamond accent and round brilliant-cut diamonds in white gold, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Perlé necklace with diamonds and cultured pearls in white gold, transformable into a bracelet, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Perlé earrings with diamonds and cultured pearls in white gold, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Mademoiselle ring with an internally flawless, D-colour, Type IIa oval-cut diamonds of 8.03 carats, from the Tweed Ruban set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Pétale necklace with a 5.67-carat cushion-cut pink sapphire, one pear-shaped diamond of 1.56-carats, plus further diamonds and pink sapphires in white and pink gold, from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Pétale earrings with pink sapphires of 3.64 and 3.62-carats, two pear-shaped diamonds, plus further diamonds and pink sapphires in pink and white gold, from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Pétale bracelet with a 5.08-carat cushion-cut pink sapphire, a pear-shaped diamond of 1.07 carats, further diamonds and pink sapphires in pink and white gold, from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Pétale ring with a cushion-cut pink sapphire of 4.02-carats, plus diamonds and pink sapphires in pink gold, from Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Poudré earrings with diamonds and pink sapphires in pink gold, from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Poudré brooch with diamonds and pink sapphires in pink gold, from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Poudré necklace with diamonds and pink sapphires in pink gold, from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Poudré ring with diamonds and pink sapphires in pink gold, from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Dentelle earrings with two D-colour, internally flawless pear-shaped diamond drops of 2.18 and 2.17-carats, plus brilliant-cut diamonds in pink gold, from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
Chanel Tweed Camélia necklace with diamonds and pink sapphires, including a detachable camélia motif brooch, in pink gold from the Tweed Camélia set of the Tweed de Chanel High Jewellery Collection
WORDS
Sarah Jordan Starting her career as a journalist, Sarah discovered the world of fine jewellery in 2014 when she began working as a magazine editor for a jewellery retail magazine in London. Since going freelance, Sarah has specialised in content writing, editing and branded storytelling for a range of businesses, including De Beers Jewellery, Sotheby’s, the Natural Diamond Council and Gem-A (Gemmological Association of Great Britain). She is also the founder of her own specialist copywriting business, The William Agency. Sarah has completed courses at both De Beers Group Institute of Diamonds and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), and is well-versed in the language of high jewellery and the history of jewellery design movements. She has known Katerina for many years and shares her vision of helping even more women fall in love with fine jewellery… one gemstone at a time!
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