Neha Dani: The Birth of the Pink Diamond ‘Amaranté’ Cuff Masterpiece

September 3, 2018

By Katerina Perez

3 min read

Perfectionism is a trait which is common among only top haute joaillerie designers. The level of dedication which is needed to imagine an artistic jewel, source the materials and craftsmen, and then to oversee the creation of an exquisite piece is hard to comprehend for most outside of the industry. An awe-inspiring example of the fastidious, borderline obsessive process which is necessary to achieve the manifestation of a masterpiece jewel is the story of Neha Dani’s ‘Amaranté’ cuff.

The story begins with the origin of Neha’s journey into the world of jewels: working at the IGI in their Antwerp gem laboratory she saw a lot of special stones. “It was the exposure to the fascinating world of coloured diamonds that sparked my deep interest in these enchanting stones,” Neha shares with me. This introduction to rare diamonds became crucial to the conception of Neha’s masterpiece – the ‘Amaranté’ cuff which was completed in 2016. Created using 12,000 fancy pink diamonds and 18 certified vivid purplish pink diamonds totalling 72.83 carats, this piece exemplifies Neha’s appreciation for the beauty of these exceptional precious stones.

Neha Dani ‘Amaranté’ cuff with 12,000 fancy pink diamonds and 18 certified vivid purplish pink diamonds, totalling 72.83 carats

Neha Dani ‘Amaranté’ cuff with 12,000 fancy pink diamonds and 18 certified vivid purplish pink diamonds, totalling 72.83 carats

The next step which lead toward the realisation of this other worldly design is the evolution in the manufacturing of Neha’s jewellery. “At some point, I got the feel of the type of high jewellery I wanted to create – the micro-settings, the finish, the polishing – 10 years ago the technology was not at the desired level in India. This meant that I had to move my manufacturing to Hong Kong and Italy for the fabrication and the polishing of the jewellery” says Neha.

This gave Neha the freedom to really explore wax carving, and to realise her wildest jewellery dreams without having to factor in the manufacturing limitations which she had to face previously. Once her design production had caught up to the complexity of her ideas, the designer was able to bring her most ambitious work ever to life!

Neha Dani ‘Amaranté’ cuff with 12,000 fancy pink diamonds and 18 certified vivid purplish pink diamonds, totalling 72.83 carats

Neha Dani ‘Amaranté’ cuff with 12,000 fancy pink diamonds and 18 certified vivid purplish pink diamonds, totalling 72.83 carats

The 18 flowers of the ‘Amaranté’ bracelet are blossoming and blooming into their fullest beauty, in the same way which an 18-year-old girl does. I want my jewellery to have something deeper, a meaningful internal connection to the wearer. – Neha Dani

There are ways of telling true artisans and their creations from the rest, and the methodology which separates the ‘Amaranté’ cuff bracelet and other works from Neha Dani is evident in the details: each of the 68 petals on the 18 flowers is unique. It would’ve been far simpler (and less costly in production) to create a few templates of petals, or even whole flowers, and simply repeat these across the design. However, this was not true to Neha’s vision “the manufacturers hated me because I refused the option of replicating certain leaves!” Admits the designer.

We arranged and rearranged the flowers so many times, and originally, the cuff was made on two bracelets that were the ‘branches’, but when we made a silver prototype model I decided that it needed to be remade from scratch, as it wasn’t wide enough. Then we added more petals and more flowers! We didn’t want to leave anything without jewels, so even some parts of the back are jewelled. – Neha Dani

Neha Dani ‘Amaranté’ cuff with 12,000 fancy pink diamonds and 18 certified vivid purplish pink diamonds, totalling 72.83 carats

Neha Dani ‘Amaranté’ cuff with 12,000 fancy pink diamonds and 18 certified vivid purplish pink diamonds, totalling 72.83 carats

To set and carve the enormous amount of fancy pink diamonds in this piece required intensive skill – and $100,000 in labour before the value of the diamonds is even considered. Neha asserts: “one person can only set around 50-60 diamonds a day maximum when they are this fine, so that means it took around 4-5 months just to set the stones, and 1.5 years to create the cuff altogether.”

Neha Dani ‘Amaranté’ cuff with 12,000 fancy pink diamonds and 18 certified vivid purplish pink diamonds, totalling 72.83 carats

Neha Dani ‘Amaranté’ cuff with 12,000 fancy pink diamonds and 18 certified vivid purplish pink diamonds, totalling 72.83 carats

In spite of my many years of experience in the fine jewellery industry, throughout my conversation with Neha Dani I couldn’t help but be amazed time and time again by the devotion to quality and artistry which were necessary to create a piece as extraordinary as the ‘Amaranté’ cuff. These characteristics of Neha Dani’s work have been recognised by the famous Macklowe Gallery in New York, which is now Neha’s sales partner and her pieces – including the Amaranté cuff – will be exhibited on Park Avenue throughout the Autumn.

Know-How: Why do jewellers set gemstones upside down?

continue reading

Jewellery Manifesto: Tracing Three Pivotal Decades with Pomellato Collezione 1967

With Collezione 1967, Pomellato is presenting its ‘Jewellery Manifesto’ through 75 pieces, each inspired by one of three revolutionary decades in its creative history: the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. Let’s take a closer look at the Maison’s artistic signatures, reinvented for a new generation of high jewellery lovers… 

by Sarah Jordan

Pink City Style: The Best-Selling Reversible Jewels of Gyan Jaipur

I would like to tell you more about the brand, its origin story, design inspirations and its popular Jaipur and Yami collections

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Futures: Le Vian Unveils its 2026 Jewellery Trends in Las Vegas

Here's a rundown of what was included this year…

by Sarah Jordan

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Artistic Realms: The Enchanting Natural World of Histoire D’Elle

I had the pleasure of speaking with Pascale Van Maele, the Brand Manager of Histoire d'Elle, which celebrates the deep-rooted connection between quiet femininity, elegance and natural forms. Let's explore together…

by Sarah Jordan

Spinel Stories: Celebrating the Special Allure of Spinels with the House of Gübelin 

I visited the Geneva boutique of the family-owned business to indulge my passion for this overlooked gemstone and explore some of its beautiful creations…

by Katerina Perez

Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair

by Sarah Jordan

Ultimate Guide to Promise Rings: What They Mean, How to Wear One and Where to Buy

While the promise ring's meaning has evolved, its emotional weight remains, making it especially popular among Gen Z and millennial couples seeking the perfect, personal pre-engagement jewel

by Claire Roberts

Exquisite Escapes: The Idyllic Inspirations Behind the Diorexquis High Jewellery Collection

In early May 2025, Dior Joaillerie's Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane showcased an unprecedented high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, to more than 300 VIPs at the Château de la Colle Noire in the heart of Provence. Let's take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.